rear shocks
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PitbullRescuer
New member
Use your hand or some compressed air and blow out all the junk that accumulated up there. There is bound to be rust, dirt, pebbles etc up there that are taking up room in that already tight space.
Scat Adams
New member
Had some trouble reaching mine as well during my install, then I said screw it;
Much easier, just hit it with some rustoleum afterwards.
Much easier, just hit it with some rustoleum afterwards.
DarkSideGTI
New member
I didn't have a hard time loosening mine, but when it came to tightening them it was a tight squeeze. my 24mm socket is 1/2" drive so fitting that up in there was a bit difficult.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Why would flex and articulation be better with an eye mount upper? If the extended and compressed lengths were the same, wouldn't the flex and articulation be the same regardless of the mount style?
BlackCat914
New member
Man up!? That's funny, because not all of us have little tiny pipe cleaner arms.
RussToy
New member
Why did Toyota design the top shock mount like a bowl? Just to hold mud and water...which leads to rust! Anyway...I cut my old shock off with a saw-zaw, cause the bolt was just too rusted. I then took some sandpaper and removed as much rust and dirt as I could. Then blew it all out with an air hose. Once it was as clean as possible, I painted (with a rag) some undercoating to protect the metal...then let it dry. I then coated the threads of my new shock with some anti-seize. That way next time, this will be a breeze!
Have you disconnected the lower mount only and tried to move the shock around? I had to do this to adjust one of my rear coils. The top is very stiff because of the stud mount. I think that same stiffness transfers to the movement of the axle if one side if drooped and the other is stuffed. I have heard of top stud mounts breaking off for just that reason. An eyelet will rotate instead of just letting rubber flex back and forth with the stud style.
PitbullRescuer
New member
Not trying to argue with you but the axle should only be moving up or down. It shouldn't be pivoting front to back. I understand that on an eye mount the shock could "swing" if you will, front to back but I don't see why it would have to.
Not saying I'm right either, I just don't see how it would matter.
Not saying I'm right either, I just don't see how it would matter.
You are thinking mostly right. In theory the axle should only move straight up and down. But they don't. Think about all of the issues with the Panhard Bar. When the frame is raised or the axle is lowered, it causes the axle to shift left and right due to the radius of the bar. The also happens to a smaller degree with the control arms with front to rear movement. All of these movements should be negligible with a stock height vehicle but are exaggerated the higher a vehicle is lifted. The higher it is lifted the larger the radius these bars/arms move and the more the axle shifts under the truck.
I like the idea of switching to a an eye type mount but cant see a way to do it without loosing at least an inch or two of of up travel out of the shock.
BrianSD_42
New member
The way I did it with my neighbor mechanic was to use a wrench or vice clamp to hold the bolt on the top of the shock. Once you have removed the lower washer and nut, get a solid grip on the top bolt as stated above THEN simply twist the the shock counter-clockwise using both hands or a large vice grip.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
What were you using a 24mm socket on?
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
BTW my vote is to work the shock back and forth to break it off. If that isn't your style then cut it off.
Be sure to use ant-seize not just for ease of removal next time but ease of install this time. I tightened my shocks up with one hand turning a 14mm ratchet wrench.
Be sure to use ant-seize not just for ease of removal next time but ease of install this time. I tightened my shocks up with one hand turning a 14mm ratchet wrench.
DarkSideGTI
New member
PitbullRescuer
New member
Damn, that's huge. If I remember right, the nut on mine were 17mm. I think all thre 4Runners I did rear shocks on we're 17mm. Wonder why Toytec uses such a big size.
