RECALL and IDLER ARM

T

taikowaza

New member
Hi 4runner compadres!!
I just took my awesome 1992 4runner (sr5 4x4 manual transmission) into the shop for the free recall on the steering rod!
score, nice free job.
However, as I expected, even though I refused the semi-obligatory meeting to decide on all the extra jobs and fluids they say she needs (even though all has been changed religiously), I got an expected call saying that although the job on the steering rod could be done, the alignment could not be done because the idler arm was worn and needed to be replaced to the tune of $350 plus tax. I refused and told them to go ahead and just to the recall replacement for free and wait on the alignment until I checked with you all, as I always do!
Any advice is appreciated- can I do this myself, what would you recommend, anyone in the Seattle area with experience in this kind of thing?
They will do the alignment for me free after I get the idler arm in shipshape.
Is this something that I really have to do anyways? (the steering seems fine) however I always want to check first.

Have a great holiday weekend amigos
ciao
Taikowaza-seattle

PS. my fan (interior temp. control) speed lever is stuck, won't move, has anyone seen this before- any hints appreciated.
 
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Me too

Hey, they told me that I needed $950 worth of front end work!.
Yeh, OK.

I will, and you can also, do it yourself. But, I'm going to do all I can when I go in there.

When taking the front end apart, figure on checking driveshafts, ball joints, idler arm, steering box (mine is leaking), front wheel bearings, shox, steering damper. Take it all apart, clean it all, grease it all, and put it back together.

Then find a good shop to align it. A lifetime package may be nice. YOu get what you pay for and the free alignment will probably be worth what you pay for it, and they'll probably try to get you to pay their outrageous prices when you come back for something else. PS, replacing the track rod should not change alignment. IT should be right where it was before the work.

Next summer, I'll do all the above for about $500 and know who screwed it up if it is not right. ME!
 
......the alignment could not be done because the idler arm was worn and needed to be replaced to the tune of $350 plus tax.....
Man you guys are getting screwed. Toyota supplied me with a relay rod and I replaced it myself. I also decided to replace the idler arm at the same time and got a new one from Toyota for $A178, thats about $US131 !!!!!!
 
same story with my 93.. took it in for recall, told me no alignment could be done because ALL of my steering linkage was ruined. ha. they wanted over $1K for partys and labor. yeah, right. took it home and repleaced all of it with my '90 parts t4r (best $1200 i spent) and went to autozone and bought a new idler arm for $90 bucks (idler arm is different between '90 and '93). comes with a lifetime warranty. $90. you are all getting shafted.
 
The $350 he was talking about was what the dealer would charge to fix it.....of course it would be cheaper to get the part yourself and replace it.

When they replaced my relay rod they tried the same line about having the fluids done at the tune of like $500 bucks I laughed and said "have a nice day".


mike
 
Rebuil It

Don't know how mechanically inclined you are but. You could do as many others have done. Just rebuild it. If the shaft is not too badly rusted or pitted you can just buy new bushings from the dealership parts department and do it yourself. Less than $20.00 and you are done and ready for the alignment.
part # 90301-53004 Quantity 1 Seal
part # 90386-19005 Quantity 2 Bushing
part # 90304-31012 Quantity 1 Dust Seal
Remove the large nut on the top of the idler arm. Slide it out of the support that is still bolted to the frame. Clean out the inside of the support and grease well. Clean the shaft with some steel wool or a wire brush and then replace the bushings with the new ones. Make sure to pack the assembly with plenty of grease and put it back on. You don't even need to take the Idler arm off of the new relay rod. Once you get the alignment done order from a Idler Arm Brace from Downey.
 
Idler Arm success!

Thanks T4R member colleagues.
Got the Idler Arm replaced today! noticed a big difference in steering. AND- the alignment will be done free of charge at the Toyota dealership because of the relay rod that was replaced for the recall!! yeaH!!
I paid a mechanic to do the idler arm on his day off, and check out this sweet deal.
I am getting all the belts replaced, idler arm rebuilt (done today), fuel filter replaced, power steering pump seal replaced (leaking) all for under $200.
Thought that was a lot better than paying Toyota $350 for just the idler arm!!!

A couple of questions for you-

1) What other tune-ups can I do/have done to the 4runner? (she's a lovely 1992 4x4 but with 230K miles on her, want her to last a long time)...

2) heater fan lever is STUCK! anyone else had this problem?

3) anyone else ever had a sticky clutch? ideas?

4) for higher mileage 4runners, any special advice for oil? additives? mods?

thanks 2nd GEN 4runner forum- absolutely the BEST LOOKING 4 runners on the street and in the wilds, HANDS DOWN!!


thanks very much for all your posts,
best
TW! Seattle
 
Don't know if this is a common problem among members, but the dealer made me leary when I went in for an alignment about 4 years ago. They told me that I needed an idler arm before an alignment could be done. I refused the service, replaced it myself, and returned about a month later for the alignment. They told me an alignment would not be possible because...I needed a new idler arm. Be wary.

Bart
Bristow, Va.



taikowaza said:
Hi 4runner compadres!!
I just took my awesome 1992 4runner (sr5 4x4 manual transmission) into the shop for the free recall on the steering rod!
score, nice free job.
However, as I expected, even though I refused the semi-obligatory meeting to decide on all the extra jobs and fluids they say she needs (even though all has been changed religiously), I got an expected call saying that although the job on the steering rod could be done, the alignment could not be done because the idler arm was worn and needed to be replaced to the tune of $350 plus tax. I refused and told them to go ahead and just to the recall replacement for free and wait on the alignment until I checked with you all, as I always do!
Any advice is appreciated- can I do this myself, what would you recommend, anyone in the Seattle area with experience in this kind of thing?
They will do the alignment for me free after I get the idler arm in shipshape.
Is this something that I really have to do anyways? (the steering seems fine) however I always want to check first.

Have a great holiday weekend amigos
ciao
Taikowaza-seattle

PS. my fan (interior temp. control) speed lever is stuck, won't move, has anyone seen this before- any hints appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Bart. You may be right. Even though the bushings have been replaced on the idler arm and it is strong and solid again, they MAY refuse the alignment because 1) the idler arm was not rebuilt by them
2) it is not brand new (and no profit was made)
3) no profit was made
The dealership was surprised when I refused the $350 idler arm rebuild, I guess most people just sigh and cough it up.

IN other news, my belts could not be replaced because there was another small part needed (was rusted...a bearing I think). So I have to wait a week while the part gets ordered.

I have been advised to put a new oxygen sensor in, by Sidney from Canada. I have checked them out online, the Toyota ones are much more expensive than the Denso Aftermarket ones.

Has anyone replaced their O2 sensor? Can you tell me which one you used, and how you installed it? I am going to try it myself perhaps, and want to buy the one that requires the least amount of tools.

Other than that, I think that my 4runner will be ready for our next extended camping trip into the Olympic peninsula! funfun.

take care 4ruffians! ")

best

Tim
 
Idler Arm Recall ?

Not aware of any Idler Arm recall in th US. If you rebuild it also put a Downey idler arm brace on and it will be rock solid. The only problem with rebuilding the arm is if the shaft of the arm that the bushings slide onto is very badly rusted and pitted. This can cause excessive play in the arm even with new bushings. If that is the case you may have to replace the arm anyway. If replacement is needed there is a place that advertises on Yotatech from Northridge Toyota in California that gives members 25% discount and free shipping on all parts. That may be another option for you ! Other than that it will be fine.
 
Road TRIP!

ROAD trip! it looks like you have some serious MODS on your 4runner...anything that you think is a GREAT MOD for a 2nd GEN, that you think is very WORTH IT that you would do again in a heartbeat??
Also- the recall was for the RELAY ROD, (50N recall) and the alignment was included, but they wouldn't do it because of the idler arm. So now I am waiting to see if my rebuild meets their standards for alignment (on Thursday, will let you know)

o2 sensor- anyone done it?
also, step by step lube of rear window? anyone feel like writing a tutorial? with pics!! haha you will be a saint on this board if you do it
respect

Also- got my CARFAX VIN number checked out today to the tune of $19. hope I did not get ripped off. looks clean. high mileage but on highway. I love my 4runner
2nd gens are the best SUVs out there bar none.
 
Aisin manual hubs and the Idler Arm Brace are 2 good ones to start with that will make a difference in your Runner. On E-Bay you can pick up a set of Aisin hubs from $35 to $55 and the brace from Downey Products.
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/
As far as the rear window lube it's really pretty easy.
Just snap off the inner tailgate carpeted cover and then remove the clear plastic lining. This job is best done with 2 people. Open the tailgate all the way and let it rest that way. Take a screw driver and put it into the catch of the lock on the end of the tail gate and push the catch, to simulate it latching onto the striker on the body. Do this on both sides of the tailgate. Then push down the tailgate lock button on the top of the tailgate as if it were in the closed position and you are locking it. Now put your key into the switch on the tailgate (this is where you need the second person) and open the window while it is being supported by the second person. Clean out the the channel guides with solvent and wipe them clean. If the guides are rusted or very dirty this is a sign that the outer rubber window scraper at the base of the glass is bad and has shrunk up and has gotten hard over time and needs to be replaced. Replacement of the scraper will dramitcally cut down on the amount of debris that gets into the tailgate.
Now grease the channels with some lite grease and reassemble.
You may want to clean the rubber channel that the window goes up and down in and the spray it with a light coating of silicone spray to add to that smooooth action that you are looking for . It worked great on mine , should on yours also.


Now for the disclaimer; this is what I did to help My window work more smoothly on My Runner. I am not responsible for any damages or injuries that may occur in this procedure. You are doing this at your own risk !

Sorry for the HI-JACK about the subject of the recall.
YOU ARE NOW RETURNED TO YOUR REGULARLY SCHEDULED PROGRAM !
 
taikowaza said:
Thanks Bart. You may be right. Even though the bushings have been replaced on the idler arm and it is strong and solid again, they MAY refuse the alignment because 1) the idler arm was not rebuilt by them
2) it is not brand new (and no profit was made)
3) no profit was made
The dealership was surprised when I refused the $350 idler arm rebuild, I guess most people just sigh and cough it up.

IN other news, my belts could not be replaced because there was another small part needed (was rusted...a bearing I think). So I have to wait a week while the part gets ordered.

I have been advised to put a new oxygen sensor in, by Sidney from Canada. I have checked them out online, the Toyota ones are much more expensive than the Denso Aftermarket ones.

Has anyone replaced their O2 sensor? Can you tell me which one you used, and how you installed it? I am going to try it myself perhaps, and want to buy the one that requires the least amount of tools.

Other than that, I think that my 4runner will be ready for our next extended camping trip into the Olympic peninsula! funfun.

take care 4ruffians! ")

best

Tim
Click to expand...

Replaced my O2 sensor while chasing a rough-running problem with the 3.0VZE. There was prolly nothing wrong with the O2 sensor, as it turns out, but the original one had 155K miles on it. I used the Denso model. If I remember correctly , its cost was around $80. The installation was straightforward. The sensor is located on the top side of the exhaust pipe very close to , but on the engine-side of the exhaust near the catalytic converter. The sensor is a pencil-shaped device with a bracket made on the business end and a couple of wires that mate to the plug coming out of the wiring harness. Unplug the wires and move them to the side. Then loosen the two nuts that hold the old sensor onto the exhaust pipe. You may want to soak these nuts in penetrating oil, like Liquid Wrench, etc. , before trying to get them off. The heat tends to make them difficult to remove. Once you get the nuts off, use a small, flat screwdriver to pry the old O2 sensor off the pipe,, the business end of the sensor will extend down into hole in the exhaust just a bit. There is a small manifold gasket that needs to be completely removed from the area around the hole in the exhaust. You should receive a new gasket with the new sensor. Just reverse the procedure to reinstall the new sensor. The whole process took me about a half hour. Gas mileage seemed to improve, slightly.

Mike in AR
 
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