Recipe for 35's???

[fireman9027]

I know there are a few on here that are running 35" tires, I'd like to know what size wheels you're running, width, backspacing. Also what did you have to do other than body mount chop? What suspension are you running, and is it maxed out? I tried to search it, but when I search "35" nothing comes up...

Thanks!!

 

[MTN4RNR]

Start here. Keep reading. [MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION] has also gone the 35 route. See his posts, and thread.

There are plenty of comments on 35's here. Search other items like:
- "long travel"
- "35 tires"
- "I have way too much money and time and should have bought an FJ"
- "I hate CV's, what should I do?"

Joking aside, I searched "35 tires" and this was among the first hits...
Why is everyone so scared of 35's tires ???

 

[marshal]

Unless you have the means to long travel, (long travel, not extended travel) do yourself a favor and stay away from 35s. It is NOT easy to do by any means. I have 45,000 miles on these 35s and I am still finding bugs to make it all work cohesively. If you can drop $5000 on a long travel front suspension, you just fixed a lot of the issues I'm dealing with and have been for 2 years now.

 

[fireman9027]

Start here. Keep reading. [MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION] has also gone the 35 route. See his posts, and thread.

There are plenty of comments on 35's here. Search other items like:
- "long travel"
- "35 tires"
- "I have way too much money and time and should have bought an FJ"
- "I hate CV's, what should I do?"

Joking aside, I searched "35 tires" and this was among the first hits...
Why is everyone so scared of 35's tires ???

DAM... I just searched "35"...

 

[fireman9027]

Unless you have the means to long travel, (long travel, not extended travel) do yourself a favor and stay away from 35s. It is NOT easy to do by any means. I have 45,000 miles on these 35s and I am still finding bugs to make it all work cohesively. If you can drop $5000 on a long travel front suspension, you just fixed a lot of the issues I'm dealing with and have been for 2 years now.

I was actually thinking about that, I've found a couple sources, this will still be my daily driver for a few more years, the is my bucket list project..

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Unless you have the means to long travel, (long travel, not extended travel) do yourself a favor and stay away from 35s. It is NOT easy to do by any means. I have 45,000 miles on these 35s and I am still finding bugs to make it all work cohesively. If you can drop $5000 on a long travel front suspension, you just fixed a lot of the issues I'm dealing with and have been for 2 years now.

This is pretty true, I love my 35's; but they are a pain. I wish Toyo made the RTs in 34's when I bought my tires (they still don't as of now).

I'm running a 17x9 wheel with -12 Offset wrapped in 35x12.5R17's. I went with a 1.5" BL, chopped the body mount, trimmed and hammered the pinch welds, 5
degrees of Caster; and I am still rubbing on severe compression or moderate compression at near full lock.

It's a lot of trial and error trimming and other things. I'm considering extended front bump stops and hammering the whole fender well flat. I'm going to need to roll the fenders or get fiberglass ones later down the road as well. A long travel would probably help out, but it's not something on the front of the list right now.

Granted that's on my 4th generation, but the frame and wheel wells are close enough that it's a good indicator for a 5th generation.

 

[Jetboy]

I have not done this - BUT - if I were going up to 35's my formula would be this:

Rear - just taller springs and maybe minor fender trimming. They should fit out back pretty easily.

Front:
Option 1: Custom long travel that relocates the spindle 1 inch forward and adds about 2 inches of lift.

Option 2: Drop bracket lift with the coilovers set to stock height. Generally the bracket lifts are about 2-3 inches of relocation of the lower a arm mounts and new spindles. You don't need to set them at 6 inches of lift. They also can be a true 3 inch lift with near OEM geometry. I don't like bracket lifts, but there's a case to be made for them here.

Option 3: SAS with a 3 or 4 link. Put the axle anywhere you want it. Diamond axle can build you one that uses the entire OEM outer assembly so you keep all your brakes, ABS etc. intact. Figure about $9k for this if you're not doing the work yourself.

IMO the relocation of the spindle forward is the best option. It will require bumper cutting in the front and custom a-arms and probably cost the same as a long travel.

 

[Swarty]

Option 4

I have not done this - BUT - if I were going up to 35's my formula would be this:

Rear - just taller springs and maybe minor fender trimming. They should fit out back pretty easily.

Front:
Option 1: Custom long travel that relocates the spindle 1 inch forward and adds about 2 inches of lift.

Option 2: Drop bracket lift with the coilovers set to stock height. Generally the bracket lifts are about 2-3 inches of relocation of the lower a arm mounts and new spindles. You don't need to set them at 6 inches of lift. They also can be a true 3 inch lift with near OEM geometry. I don't like bracket lifts, but there's a case to be made for them here.

Option 3: SAS with a 3 or 4 link. Put the axle anywhere you want it. Diamond axle can build you one that uses the entire OEM outer assembly so you keep all your brakes, ABS etc. intact. Figure about $9k for this if you're not doing the work yourself.

IMO the relocation of the spindle forward is the best option. It will require bumper cutting in the front and custom a-arms and probably cost the same as a long travel.

Could also cut and reweld the LCA mounts and shock tower to move it forward. I didn't just look but in my head it seems like there is room. Be hard but if you had the time and skill it could be done.

 

[Simpleman74]

Option 3: SAS with a 3 or 4 link. Put the axle anywhere you want it. Diamond axle can build you one that uses the entire OEM outer assembly so you keep all your brakes, ABS etc. intact. Figure about $9k for this if you're not doing the work yourself.

I wouldnt even think about 35s til I made this a reality:guitar2:

 

[bimrunner]

Option 3: SAS with a 3 or 4 link. Put the axle anywhere you want it. Diamond axle can build you one that uses the entire OEM outer assembly so you keep all your brakes, ABS etc. intact. Figure about $9k for this if you're not doing the work yourself.

Try closer to $15k. I went through a lot of it and you also have to tie in the steering and dampening, you are probably looking at a tcase if you really want to get the most out of it and then you find yourself lusting for a rear axle and dropping some dana 60s in those suckers. I got over $20k really fast until I realized that LT front made more sense for me with some nice CVJ axles with boots made for that application. I guess I'll find out if I'm disappointed but I am spoiled with having two rigs. The 80 is my solid axle rig and the 4Runner is moderate crawler and go fast rig. I'll probably jump to the 35s my next set of tires.

 

[fireman9027]

Unless you have the means to long travel, (long travel, not extended travel) do yourself a favor and stay away from 35s. It is NOT easy to do by any means. I have 45,000 miles on these 35s and I am still finding bugs to make it all work cohesively. If you can drop $5000 on a long travel front suspension, you just fixed a lot of the issues I'm dealing with and have been for 2 years now.[/QUOTT

Thanks marshal, always great to hear from somebody that's done it!!!

 

[Jetboy]

Try closer to $15k. I went through a lot of it and you also have to tie in the steering and dampening, you are probably looking at a tcase if you really want to get the most out of it and then you find yourself lusting for a rear axle and dropping some dana 60s in those suckers. I got over $20k really fast until I realized that LT front made more sense for me with some nice CVJ axles with boots made for that application. I guess I'll find out if I'm disappointed but I am spoiled with having two rigs. The 80 is my solid axle rig and the 4Runner is moderate crawler and go fast rig. I'll probably jump to the 35s my next set of tires.

I was kinda basing it on what my local shop that does lots of Tacomas charges. They run $8,000 for the following.

USED HP Dana 44 From Early Bronco (gear ratio of choice, open diff)
Chevy Knuckles and Brakes (for 6 lug pattern to match Rear)
All new bearings in Front Diff

FOX 12" Travel Coilovers with VIPER Springs (non-reservoir)
2" Diameter .250" Wall DOM Links
BDS Extreme Forged Flex Joints and Rubber Bushings on All Links.
GM 1-TON Moog Tie Rods w/ 1.5" .250 Wall DOM Steering
HD Track Bar with 1" Heims and 1.5" .250 Wall DOM
Remanufactured TOYOTA IFS Steering Box
Trailgear 4" Drop Pitman Arm
Custom POwer Steering Lines
HD Steering Stabilizer
Rear DEAVER Leaf Springs (custom matched for your truck)
FOX 2.0 Rear Shocks
Custom Brake Lines.
LABOR

I figured add another $1,000 to remove the D44 with Chevy outers (Who wants a D44?) and put in a Diamond Axle with the OEM toyota outers. It's a much better axle all around.


On top of that I'd also buy a Diamond rear axle. They have a bolt in toyota 9.5 axle housing. And go LT rear. I would have my diamond axle front built to accept either the rear 8.2 and keep the e-locker or possibly use the new Tacoma 8.7 with an e-locker. Either should be very durable in a front axle application.


Like you I also have a solid axle land cruiser for a 2nd vehicle, so I probably won't do much to my 4runner for now. At some point I may go crazy though. I kinda want something in the range of 35-38's, but I know I shouldn't. It would have nothing to do with offroading, and everything to do with vanity.

 

[Jetboy]

Could also cut and reweld the LCA mounts and shock tower to move it forward. I didn't just look but in my head it seems like there is room. Be hard but if you had the time and skill it could be done.

I think that's another possible option. I kinda prefer to go bolt on for this type of deal so you can reverse it if you want. I'm not sure moving the mounts forward gains enough benefit to be worth the effort if you're building custom a-arms anyway. Stripping the frame clean does give you more options on beefing up the mounting points though.

 

[4Rager]

How hard do you plan to wheel with them? This picture is of my 33's and this side wasn't rubbing under normal circumstances. But this makes it obvious why a BMC is necessary and why you'll likely need to get the wheel further forward.

 

[fireman9027]

How hard do you plan to wheel with them? This picture is of my 33's and this side wasn't rubbing under normal circumstances. But this makes it obvious why a BMC is necessary and why you'll likely need to get the wheel further forward.

If I do this I plan on wheeling as hard as possible once it's done. I retire soon, and am planning a "bucket list" trip that will probably take 6 weeks to two months. The build has to be able to do every type of terrain, if it's at all possible. Mud bogs by where I live, sand as well, along with rock crawling out west, logging trails, dunes, and snow..... So I'm really wanting to plan this out once, so that I don't say later.."well I guess I shoulda"... If that makes any sense

 

[wfo9]

True 35s are a PITA. I'm guessing 315s are pretty easy since they are usually a bit smaller (typically 34.4 or so)

I'm running 305 MTRs 34.1"... They work incredibly well offroad and i have no rubbing in any conditions. The truck surprises me in what it can do. Part of the key to that is keeping the weight down and getting as much travel as possible. I have a sway bar disconnect also... No sway in the rear.... (lockers, gears, a belly tuck and a well balanced suspension don't hurt either)

The formula:
- body mount chop
- 17x8 -10 4.1 BS (315s will mount on these just fine)
- Fender liners trimmed and pushed way up front....
- washer bottle relocated
- uniball UCAS
- at least 4.0* of positive caster 5 better If my alignment drops below 4 it rubs a bit.

I have long travel in the rear so have 3" bump stop extensions back there. Not sure if that would be required with std travel shocks and springs.

I'm pretty sure I could get 315s to clear, but might need a bit more caster up front and possibly a slight spacer on the front bump stop.

Overall, the 34s let me do anything I want with the truck. This is nothing crazy but here is a vid from Saturday. My truck is the Mag gray one... My buddies truck (silver) is on the same tire MTR but a 33".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLjDGvXiCis



Although these 5th gens are never going to hang with solid axle rigs.. when built right they can do things that people never expect them to be able to do

 

[Jeremy556]

Sawzall, hammer and angle grinder are the main ingredients. Sprinkle on some suspension geometry, careful wheel selection, bump stop extending and they're still going to rub at full lock if you use it off road.

 

[fireman9027]

True 35s are a PITA. I'm guessing 315s are pretty easy since they are usually a bit smaller (typically 34.4 or so)

I'm running 305 MTRs 34.1"... They work incredibly well offroad and i have no rubbing in any conditions. The truck surprises me in what it can do. Part of the key to that is keeping the weight down and getting as much travel as possible. I have a sway bar disconnect also... No sway in the rear.... (lockers, gears, a belly tuck and a well balanced suspension don't hurt either)

The formula:
- body mount chop
- 17x8 -10 4.1 BS (315s will mount on these just fine)
- Fender liners trimmed and pushed way up front....
- washer bottle relocated
- uniball UCAS
- at least 4.0* of positive caster 5 better If my alignment drops below 4 it rubs a bit.

I have long travel in the rear so have 3" bump stop extensions back there. Not sure if that would be required with std travel shocks and springs.

I'm pretty sure I could get 315s to clear, but might need a bit more caster up front and possibly a slight spacer on the front bump stop.

Overall, the 34s let me do anything I want with the truck. This is nothing crazy but here is a vid from Saturday. My truck is the Mag gray one... My buddies truck (silver) is on the same tire MTR but a 33".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLjDGvXiCis



Although these 5th gens are never going to hang with solid axle rigs.. when built right they can do things that people never expect them to be able to do

Awesome!! Thanks!!

 

[wfo9]

Awesome!! Thanks!!

One more thing to consider for 35s would be 1" body lift.

I'm not a big fan of body lifts, but 1" might be OK.

 

[rochmpr]

Another thing to consider is most 35's are not true 35's. More in the 34 range. The General Grabbers are 35". So, do some research, a 285/75 / 305 or 315 may actually be about the same size or maybe a ½" smaller, at which point, that ¼" of extra clearance really isn't going to matter much.