Recommendation on oil changes.

Thanks for adding these notes. After so many people posted that they needed to raise their truck to get the skid plate off I was thinking that they must've had a slightly different setup on the Trail vs. SR5. Thanks for confirming it can be done. You know I made a huge mess of my O/C, I just edited that part out. One thing you alluded to that I was going to post...I now recommend you get a BF oil drain pan. One that barely holds the 7 Qts just doesn't cut it.
 
Yes, once I completely removed the lower bumper cover, the skid plate was easily removable by just pulling it forward (after removing the four bolts) to clear the tabs.

I also agree in not trying to use an oil pan close in capacity to the amount of oil you will be draining into it. Although the oil might fit, moving and handling a catch pan filled to capacity can end up making a big mess getting it out from under the vehicle.
 
I want to start changing my own oil..i figured its time to become a man.

My question for you guys is: What do you do with the old oil? Can i take and drop it off somewhere? Does that cost anything?
 
Johnny Utah said:
I want to start changing my own oil..i figured its time to become a man.

My question for you guys is: What do you do with the old oil? Can i take and drop it off somewhere? Does that cost anything?
Click to expand...

Auto parts stores all take the oil back, as does Wal-Mart.

I actually did the oil change for the first time on my 4Runner, and, well, it's ALMOST as bad as a 1996 VW transporter. The skid plate comes off the same way.

Oh, and I now see what the molestation service did. The fool at the stealership decided the oil filter drain plug was a good way to tighten the whole oil filter housing down with. It ain't coming out. Result: one big frigging mess.

I'll have the discussion with the service manager about them owing me a new housing and drain plug assembly. What are my odds?
 
As much of a royal PITA as it is to change the oil on the 5th Gen, that's why I do it myself too.
It's not hard, but it takes me 45 mins start to finish. A "normal" change usually takes me 15-20 mins...Maybe I can get it to 30 mins next time!

BTW- when you tell the dealer what happened just be ready for the blank stare. :wow:
 
Antman said:
BTW- when you tell the dealer what happened just be ready for the blank stare. :wow:
Click to expand...

Based on prior service managers at stealerships I no longer frequent: They usually launch into a tirade of me not knowing what I am talking about. Followed by offering to show them my mechanic's certifications. They then say this isn't Canada. I say it's irrelevant. Their last word "my guys are the best!"

:rockthrow:
 
homeyclaus said:
...Oh, and I now see what the molestation service did. The fool at the stealership decided the oil filter drain plug was a good way to tighten the whole oil filter housing down with. It ain't coming out. Result: one big frigging mess...
Click to expand...

At least when I saw how overtorqued my filter housing was I felt reasonably assured that they had changed it.
 
Well, now that my free oil changes are over, I decided to tackle the job myself to save a few bucks. The biggest reason was because some time back, I sourced about 150 quarts of Valvoline SynPower 0-20w for $1.00 a quart.

I picked up the filter and the crush washer at the dealer for about $6 and I read and re-read through all of the posts here and another thread. I also spent about a week and a half trying to find the correct filter housing wrench. One of the techs at the dealership was going on vacation for a week so he loaned me his until I can get one for myself.

When I drained the oil I was surprised how filthy dark it was. I have had the oil "changed" 5 times by the dealer at ~5k - 6k intervals with no hassle in regards to the coupons and the whole 5k versus 10k deal. This change was at 36500 right around 7k.

I say "changed" because after dropping the pan drain bolt with my 14mm and extension, my dad and I were both wondering if it had ever been changed at all. Needless to say I was a little pissed as I wiped down the pan, torqued the drain bolt, and buttoned up the oil drain cover. I then moved to the skid and the filter.

I had the truck up on my Rhino ramps so I had no worries about letting the skid hang as I felt that I would have enough room to work. The first thing I noticed was that the metal clip (what is this thing for anyway) was just past the mark where it should have been, indicating that at least my oil had been changed once, maybe. I grabbed my ratchet and extension and proceeded to remove the oil filter drain plug to drain the filter housing, and to my surprise, the whole oil filter cap assembly began to turn. I tried to hold the filter cap as I loosened the plug but no joy. That thing was tight. I am wondering if the dealer has a torque wrench in the place because it was well beyond the 10 ft lb spec.

Seeing that I was not going to be able to drain the filter housing, I decided to completely remove the skid to give me more room to make a mess. I definitely recommend removing the lower front bumper cover and that other doo dad from the skid to facilitate removal.

After that, I removed the filter housing, only slightly painting my right arm up to the elbow with black oil. The filter was as black as the housing, but I did not notice any metal particles glistening in either the filter or the bottom of the housing. We tried to hold the housing and remove the filter drain plug but were unsuccessful. I ended up putting it back on as it was.

When I take the filter wrench back to the dealer I am going to make sure to let them know that I didn't need it anyway because some b@st@rd tightened the drain plug too tight and the housing turned loose before the plug did. I am going to ask for a new housing and plug and they can have mine after the next change.

All in all it was a very simple job thanks to everyone who has done it before me and posted pictures and tips. In about 5-6k when I change again I will see how much difference there is oil color and the color of the filter. Maybe I can determine if they have been skimping on my free changes.
 
So I went to get my 20k free service/ oil change at a different dealership than normal last week and the service asst manager told me they'd use 0W-20, but I had a suspicion they didn't bc my oil change sticker said 5k miles and it said mobil 1...so I called him up and he reassured me they used 0W-20. (I didn't get a service receipt to see what they used and did).

I checked on the Toyota Owner's Website that shows your service records and it showed they used Mobil 5w-20. Called today and spoke to someone else that confirmed they used 5w-20, but that not all 2010 4Runners use 0W-20, said they use whatever the oil cap says. Just checked the oil cap and it says to use 0W-20 in white letters.

I don't know that much about oil except what I briefly read here, but was under the impression that the Toyota 0W-20 is a higher quality full synthetic oil that req a 10k oil change vs the Mobil 5W-20 that is conventional requiring a 5k change.

Guess my questions are does it make a difference and should I make them redo the oil change? I was already slightly po'd about the asst service manager shrugging off some of my concerns like light fogging/wear, driver side seat wear & lumbar support probs, etc.
 
homeyclaus said:
Based on prior service managers at stealerships I no longer frequent: They usually launch into a tirade of me not knowing what I am talking about. Followed by offering to show them my mechanic's certifications. They then say this isn't Canada. I say it's irrelevant. Their last word "my guys are the best!"

:rockthrow:
Click to expand...

Update:

Assistant service manager listened while I explained the issue, and the mess the issue caused. He apologized, and asked how he could resolve the issue, to which I replied "new oil filter housing cap". His response: done. Parts department called four days later saying the part was in. It's here now - even included another filter.

All in all, that was painless.
 
dealer wont let me change my own

Unless I want to invalidate my SouthEast Toyota dealers add on lifetime power train guarantee I CAN NOT do my own. I have been a mechanic going back to the 80's but they say it has to be them or another ASE Certified shop to not make my power train guarantee invalid. This really blows and I asked if I document and it was still a no go. I am having them do mine both oil and filter every 5000 miles tops even though they say I am waiting money as its only needed every 10k miles. I just can't do that to my engine.
 
knc1us69 said:
Unless I want to invalidate my SouthEast Toyota dealers add on lifetime power train guarantee I CAN NOT do my own. I have been a mechanic going back to the 80's but they say it has to be them or another ASE Certified shop to not make my power train guarantee invalid. This really blows and I asked if I document and it was still a no go. I am having them do mine both oil and filter every 5000 miles tops even though they say I am waiting money as its only needed every 10k miles. I just can't do that to my engine.
Click to expand...

That kind of bro' science is a waste of money, and they're being honest by telling you. This ain't the 80's, you can go 10k miles. Send a sample off for used oil analysis if you have doubts.

Also, there have been enough court cases stating that warranties cannot be invalidated based on who does the maintenance. They have to prove it wasn't done right. In the case of car manufacturers, if they say not getting it done at the dealership voids the warranty, they owe it to you ... for free. Now, some parts of those rulings don't apply to aftermarket warranties (aka insurance) but they'd have a heck of a time making that survive in court.
 
You maybe right but.....

You may be right but.... I saw the oil that was drained out and the discoloration was more than obvious. Just as I am now reaching the next 4600 miles the same discoloration is noticeable on the dipstick. While the oil may be holding up I will go with my "old skool" idiotic ways of assuming that means the oil is somewhat contaminated, which granted could ease off after complete break in of the new motor. However, when I see dark coloration in my oils even newer oils (and I have run full synthetic Mobile 1 since 1986) I have to believe that oil is contaminated or heated to the point to change coloration and with anything heated over time changes its chemical makeup. To me that would mean a change in viscosity ratings. Yes, I am old and stuck in my maintenance ways but they have served me well with zero motor rebuilds in the last 20 years and three cars with over 300K miles on each.

I also do not doubt that the regular scheduled maintenance plans of any vehicle will get you fine results through the warranty period. That's all the manufacturer cares about; then they want you to buy a new vehicle asap. Then you are on your own. When I buy my vehicles I buy them for the long haul and thus, I want them to be reliable way past the manufacturers warranty.

Totally my opinion so everyone can jump in and bash me now, I am cool with that, to each his own. Just wanted to explain my "Bro Science", :lol:
 
on the warranty issue.....

in another thread, I took the time to contact the Federal Trade Commission and the Attorney Generals Office of the NC Dept. of Justice (and sent them a copy of the Lifetime Power Train Guarantee) to review as provided by my dealer.

I inquired if the Magnunson-Moss Act of 1975 applied to that dealer supplied (not manufacturer supplied) guarantee and their specialist was adamant that it would not.

My specific question was regarding me changing to a non-factory CAI and throttle body spacer (AfePower to be exact) and/or if I wanted to do my own oil changes and keep documentation.

She was very clear that despite what the after market component manufacturers claim and for BOTH questions above any warranty provided in the state of North Carolina that you do not "Specifically PAY FOR" and is given to you by the manufacturer or the dealer without a line item cost on the invoice, or even a third party for that matter can place any stipulations on that warranty or guarantee they want. She advised if they say all maintenance must be done by their maintenance department on only "Tuesdays @ 2pm" they have every right to or they can invalidate your agreement if you do not abide by it. She said they can stipulate whatever they want, period.

That may not be the case where you live but I wanted to get a firm answer and in North Carolina that is the highest legal authority and I am going to go by what they told me. The FTC refused to offer any interpretation even though they are the ones that the ACT documentation itself says to contact if you have questions. They told me to contact the attorney generals office of the state I lived in for that question.

Again, not being an ass just sharing what I was told directly by our source in North Carolina. I am not willing to risk it based on their interpretation to me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 173 (members: 0, guests: 173)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top