Recommendation on oil changes.

[1000MPH]

But you said your warranty is lifetime, so why are you worried about performing only the minimum required service?
Are you at least getting a good deal on the OC's and do you feel they give you good, honest service?

I tend to agree that 10k seems like a long interval but if we don't do the actual UOA to confirm either way then we are just guessing.

 

[homeyclaus]

You may be right but.... I saw the oil that was drained out and the discoloration was more than obvious. Just as I am now reaching the next 4600 miles the same discoloration is noticeable on the dipstick. While the oil may be holding up I will go with my "old skool" idiotic ways of assuming that means the oil is somewhat contaminated, which granted could ease off after complete break in of the new motor. However, when I see dark coloration in my oils even newer oils (and I have run full synthetic Mobile 1 since 1986) I have to believe that oil is contaminated or heated to the point to change coloration and with anything heated over time changes its chemical makeup. To me that would mean a change in viscosity ratings. Yes, I am old and stuck in my maintenance ways but they have served me well with zero motor rebuilds in the last 20 years and three cars with over 300K miles on each.

I also do not doubt that the regular scheduled maintenance plans of any vehicle will get you fine results through the warranty period. That's all the manufacturer cares about; then they want you to buy a new vehicle asap. Then you are on your own. When I buy my vehicles I buy them for the long haul and thus, I want them to be reliable way past the manufacturers warranty.

Totally my opinion so everyone can jump in and bash me now, I am cool with that, to each his own. Just wanted to explain my "Bro Science", :lol:

"darkened oil" huh? mmkay. Show me a used oil analysis from a reputable lab, because other than soot content that's meaningless. Oil color has nothing to do with being worn out. Case in point: LPG and CNG engines don't color the oil darker one bit. The oil may be broken down and the additive pack all gone, but by your yardstick it's fine. Exhibit 2: Diesel engines. That stuff is cola colored after 300 miles. Worn out after 1000, according to you. That's just not how it works.

And please, please, don't ask where to gap the points on your new 4Runner, mkay?

As far as regular maintenance intervals go, I see where you could get that opinion, but there is a reason some makes have better reputations than others, and I can tell you how not to get it: by fudging maintenance interval numbers to "just get you through warranty." Only AMC under Romney and Chrysler under Iacocca would pull that kind of stunt.

[snip]

Again, not being an ass just sharing what I was told directly by our source in North Carolina. I am not willing to risk it based on their interpretation to me.

So it's a private contract, not a Toyota thing.

For that kind of malarkey they can keep the truck if they won't take it out of the price. f that, there is no way I'd sign on. Why? Because to me the stipulations meet the definition of "onerous" to the point of being "assinine". You know, like :frisky: .

No hard feelings, but I am not sure I can help sway you.

 

[knc1us69]

points gapping was a good one.....

okay; so you know what the points gapping should be set in the distributor? awesome, I have been looking for those point gappings in my manual since day one.

I also have a Lexus IS 350 with the F-Sport mods, and it only requires 7500 miles for intervals yet I do 5000 on it as well.

I will not be swayed on going beyond 5k personally regardless of a thread postings or manu recommendations. Honestly, even if I sent off for analysis, I would still not be convinced that filter and oil should stay in 10k between changes. Lets just mark it up as me being ignorant.

On the warranty / guarantee issue, it was part of the deal. I did not pay more for it and all new car purchases at SouthEast Yota dealerships are entitled to it as far as I know. So why not want it to stay intact? I am doing everything in my power to meet their requirements but I also take care of my vehicles in the off chance something dramatic happens and I want to resell the vehicle. Don't plan on it but you never know and the lifetime power train guarantee is for original purchaser only.

I want top performance, MPG, and condition in all of my vehicles and thus will not wait for recommended intervals if I feel something needs attention. That being said, I know a lot of auto enthusiast in the Southeast that would frown if you were selling them a used vehicle and showed them your every 10k maintenance regardless of what your recommended intervals were.

**You could get by with only bathing once per week and I am sure there would not be minimal health risks with that, and would meet your dr's recommended maximum length between bathings. However, I would prefer to do it a little more often. lol

 

[knc1us69]

yep, love their service

But you said your warranty is lifetime, so why are you worried about performing only the minimum required service?
Are you at least getting a good deal on the OC's and do you feel they give you good, honest service?

I tend to agree that 10k seems like a long interval but if we don't do the actual UOA to confirm either way then we are just guessing.

I am still using my free ones up that i received with new purchase but the same dealership does my Lexus and they only charge me like $16 for labor and their filter for the oil change if I bring my own oil. Not sure what the filter actually costs for the Lexus but it is a canister drop in and I think $16 is more than fair for labor, filter and topping off other fluids like brake, windshield washer, etc.

Reason I worry about interval is as stated in previous post, should on the off chance I sell the vehicle or was ever denied the guarantee for some crazy reason I want my vehicle in top shape period as far as quality, performance, and mpg. Just a personal thing.

 

[homeyclaus]

I am still using my free ones up that i received with new purchase but the same dealership does my Lexus and they only charge me like $16 for labor and their filter for the oil change if I bring my own oil. Not sure what the filter actually costs for the Lexus but it is a canister drop in and I think $16 is more than fair for labor, filter and topping off other fluids like brake, windshield washer, etc.

Reason I worry about interval is as stated in previous post, should on the off chance I sell the vehicle or was ever denied the guarantee for some crazy reason I want my vehicle in top shape period as far as quality, performance, and mpg. Just a personal thing.

For $16 bucks I'd have the dealer do it too, and if it includes the rotation it's bordering on theft. Except for one of my earlier threads and what they did to my oil filter drain valve. And the fact that I have never seen a Toyota dealer here do what they said on the checklist - they'll rotate a tire with 15 psi in it, call it good, and impact wrench the lock nut on there good and extra tight for you. And boy do they get huffy when you point it out. Lifetime warranty or not, having the oil filter canister crack, or discover they broke your lock nut tool, miles from a paved road isn't my idea of a good time.

You're right on the 3rd party warranty though, they'll find some way to get out of it if they can.

As far as selling the vehicle goes, past a certain age nobody seems to care how well the thing was maintained. Or how poorly. You might, I might, but the public at large has zero concern. In the DC area there are still people asking $7k plus for a 1998 Tacoma with blown axle seals and a grinding clutch. And apparently, there are suckers paying that.

We can agree to disagree on the interval, but heck, if it's that cheap, you might as well. Given how far south you are, you can run 5W20, that's cleared for 5000 mile intervals per your manual. You can save a buck, or at least shop around, since good 5W20 synthetics are much more common. Also, sometimes you can score Toyota 0W20 for 15% less than Mobil 1 - call around the parts departments for a case price. Honda/Acura also sell 0W20 that meets the specs for less that Mobil 1 once in a while. All have tested well in the lab, although apparently Toyota's formulation has the best cold flow properties down to -20, after which Mobil 1 is better. (this is per bobistheoilguy.com, where people actually post lab results).