Recommended LBJ and UBJ replacement

[MarcusAurelius]

I have about 111K miles on my 2003 4runner and both upper and lower ball joints have seen better days. They seem to be slightly torn but aren't gushing much grease (however I bought it used so for all I know the grease has all leaked out by now).

I want to replace them and I would like to know what a quality replacement for both of them would be. Also, where would you recommend I purchase the replacements? I don't want to have to worry about premature failures in the future, and I don't do any off roading if that helps at all.

Also, any advice on things to look out for while replacing them or any additional parts that should be replaced while the ball joints are off would also be helpful!

Thanks in advance!

 

[MarcusAurelius]

I just bought a LBJ from Napa: here's the link

Has anyone ever done the replacement of the lower ball on their 4th gens without buying the ball with arm assembly? Have the dozens of people that said it's a very easy job all shelled out the money to have the pre-pressed assembly? If I want to use the replacement ball, will I need to pull it with the arm, go to a shop, ask them to press in the new one, then replace the whole piece?

Any help is appreciated... My T4R is getting pretty wobbly and I don't want a LBJ failure..

 

[MarcusAurelius]

I'm thinking of just winging this and seeing how it goes since I haven't seen any 4th gen walk throughs yet. I'll ask around and see if any shops in the area would mind using their press to press in the Napa balljoints to the OEM control arm. (Should be pretty simple to do) Figured it probably wasn't worth replacing the whole arm for no real reason

While I have it off I'm thinking of replacing the old bushings with poly ones. I'll have to see how it goes. Any insight on poly bushing replacements?

 

[zopperman]

I'm thinking of just winging this and seeing how it goes since I haven't seen any 4th gen walk throughs yet. I'll ask around and see if any shops in the area would mind using their press to press in the Napa balljoints to the OEM control arm. (Should be pretty simple to do) Figured it probably wasn't worth replacing the whole arm for no real reason

While I have it off I'm thinking of replacing the old bushings with poly ones. I'll have to see how it goes. Any insight on poly bushing replacements?

[MENTION=46025]HokieRunner[/MENTION]

 

[MarcusAurelius]

[MENTION=46025]HokieRunner[/MENTION]

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Also I should note that I'm not dead set completely on poly yet. If it's true that they wear much faster, I am still wondering whether poly or OEM would be better suited to critical locations like the LCA. Either way though, I think it makes sense to replace them while they're off.

 

[HokieRunner]

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Also I should note that I'm not dead set completely on poly yet. If it's true that they wear much faster, I am still wondering whether poly or OEM would be better suited to critical locations like the LCA. Either way though, I think it makes sense to replace them while they're off.

Here's the write up I used to do mine. My local parts store had a ball joint removal kit (actually had 2 of them). If you decide to follow the write up and do it yourself, it's actually recommended to leave the control arm on the truck. Get a 3 or 4 foot pipe to put on your breaker bar and get ready for a work out. Also get the kit that has a lot of different sized press spacers. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics since I did it solo and at night.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

If you end up doing poly bushings and want some insight and detailed pics let me know. I took a bunch but haven't sorted and posted them yet. They're not hard but it's time consuming - you're looking at an 8 hour job (I also cleaned and painted the LCAs while I was at it). After seeing how shot the OEM bushings were and dealing with a shaky wheel for a good bit of time, I wasn't about to put rubber ones back in. I'm sure they're fine but I figured I'd try something new.

 

[MarcusAurelius]

Here's the write up I used to do mine. My local parts store had a ball joint removal kit (actually had 2 of them). If you decide to follow the write up and do it yourself, it's actually recommended to leave the control arm on the truck. Get a 3 or 4 foot pipe to put on your breaker bar and get ready for a work out. Also get the kit that has a lot of different sized press spacers. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics since I did it solo and at night.

Lower Ball Joint Replacement - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

If you end up doing poly bushings and want some insight and detailed pics let me know. I took a bunch but haven't sorted and posted them yet. They're not hard but it's time consuming - you're looking at an 8 hour job (I also cleaned and painted the LCAs while I was at it). After seeing how shot the OEM bushings were and dealing with a shaky wheel for a good bit of time, I wasn't about to put rubber ones back in. I'm sure they're fine but I figured I'd try something new.

Awesome!! This is exactly what I needed! I actually wanted to pick up a balljoint press like the one pictured, but wanted to make sure I didn't put it in crooked. This looks like it will save me quite a bit of hassle. Reps sent!

 

[HokieRunner]

Awesome!! This is exactly what I needed! I actually wanted to pick up a balljoint press like the one pictured, but wanted to make sure I didn't put it in crooked. This looks like it will save me quite a bit of hassle. Reps sent!

No problem! You'll want to get the press snugged up real slow to make sure it's seated properly and then add on the cheater bar and go to town. And get the larger press kit (20+ piece kit).

 

[MarcusAurelius]

No problem! You'll want to get the press snugged up real slow to make sure it's seated properly and then add on the cheater bar and go to town. And get the larger press kit (20+ piece kit).

Will this one be enough do you think? LINK

It has great reviews on amazon, and the second closest is twice the price. What do you think?

 

[HokieRunner]

Will this one be enough do you think? LINK

It has great reviews on amazon, and the second closest is twice the price. What do you think?

That one will NOT work. I tried that one first but it didn't have the right size press spacers. My local advanced auto had a larger kit (briefcase sized) and i rented that kit and returned it after I was done.

Here is one similar to the kit I used : http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGZO/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

A lot of auto parts chains rent tools too. I usually go this route with odd tools I rarely use. Just put down a deposit and then return the tool for refund upon completion (you may already know this but just in case!).

 

[MarcusAurelius]

That one will NOT work. I tried that one first but it didn't have the right size press spacers. My local advanced auto had a larger kit (briefcase sized) and i rented that kit and returned it after I was done.

Here is one similar to the kit I used : Amazon.com: Astro Pneumatic 7897 Ball Joint Service Tool and Master Adapter Set: Automotive

A lot of auto parts chains rent tools too. I usually go this route with odd tools I rarely use. Just put down a deposit and then return the tool for refund upon completion (you may already know this but just in case!).

Thanks man! You just saved me a ton of money and time from having to figure that out myself! I'll check around the advanced autos near my house and see if they have something similar to rent.

 

[Brownfaux]

Yes! It took me quite a while to find this thread. I will be doing this as well. This should be a sticky, I looked for two hours!

 

[Brownfaux]

Another question too add to this. I've seen all the moog ball joint failure threads on 3rd gens, but not 4th gens. I've also read the 4th gens design is fail safe, meaning since the ball is below the arm it won't separate and make you lose your wheel.

Is this right?

 

[HokieRunner]

Another question too add to this. I've seen all the moog ball joint failure threads on 3rd gens, but not 4th gens. I've also read the 4th gens design is fail safe, meaning since the ball is below the arm it won't separate and make you lose your wheel.

Is this right?

I haven't heard it's failsafe but I haven't personally seen or heard of any 4th gen failures. As I understand, the 3rd gens had an inherently flawed design and the oem as well as the aftermarket joints had an unacceptably high failure rate.

In normal street use and lower speed offroading I'd imagine they perform well with appropriate maintenance, which I can attest to. Once you get into higher speed and heavy pig (lots of armor) applications I think one would want to address the higher demands put on all suspension components or at least up the maintenance and inspection intervals.

I'm using the moogs and recommend them, albeit I've only been running them a short time. I do prefer the fact they're greasable compared to the OEMs.

 

[Brownfaux]

Alright, I think with your option and the lack of any failure threads I'm going to go with the moogs. I'll just warranty them if they start to fail.

I need to post pics of mine. I see one tiny year on the driver side one, but see leaking at the base of it all around.

I figure with 150k miles I should just replace anyway.

 

[WXman]

So do they all have a snap ring like the NAPA version pictured above? I may attempt this job pretty soon. Looks pretty straightforward with the right tools. We've done engine swaps on Toyotas and everything else in my garage so this can't be THAT bad, right? Then again it's always the jobs that seem simple that turn out to be a nightmare. Lol.

 

[HokieRunner]

Yes, the Moogs have a snap ring. And the job isn't that bad; if you like puzzles you'll probably enjoy it haha.

 

[ebg18t]

S Then again it's always the jobs that seem simple that turn out to be a nightmare. Lol.

This is the truth..

 

[WXman]

Well, local O'reilly has the Moogs for $42 each and the press tool for free rental. So I guess when time allows I'll jump in. Gotta' do CVs on both sides as well. And brakes. So while I'm in there I might as well move the Bilsteins to the 2.5" setting and make a weekend party out of it.

 

[Brownfaux]

I got my moogs for 26$ each on amazon.