Referrals, please

GangsterOfLove

GangsterOfLove

New member
2000 T4R. 4 cyl. engine. Recently purchased so I don't have the history. 181K miles.

One mechanic fixed a number of things and it ran well for about a week. Now it's throwing codes P300 and P302, runs terrible, especially when cold. I need to find someone who knows these trucks and what goes wrong with them.

North Orange County, CA.

Who can do the job without shotgunning parts it doesn't need?

Thanks!
 
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Ok I have the same problem with my 4Runner 4cyl the engine is dirty inside they need to change the position gasket and change throttle position sensor and clean throttle body buy OEM. Engine gasket replacement, replace fuel filter and injectors, fuel system cleaning, replace both hoses, radiator cap, new anti freeze. Spark plug cables, and spark plug, thermostat and all the rubber tubes need to be placed. I will estimate about $1,000 - $1,100 on the dealership and your truck will become a brand new truck but the mechanic will not know how to repair because there is special tools. But mechanic will charge from $950 -$1,300 Toyota dealer is cheaper to repair. IN OTHER WORDS If THE TRUCK SELLER SCAM YOU I SUGEST YOU TO RETURN IT. Or tell me how much did you pay for this truck.







If the seller lies or no history its against the law you could report to the dmv or sue him as a fraudulent.


Option 2 go to your local Toyota dealership pay $60 diagnostic results and the dealer advisor (mechanic) will quote the price of repair. My price is for the Los Angeles area in Toyota of Glendale. Your area will be cheaper. Orange county You won't waste more time. My truck looks new and my engine oil stills yellow not black.for my first 60,000 after service.

Toyota independent mechanic is more expensive than the dealer

Show the pictures of your engine and the truck
 
Last edited:
houjames98765 said:
Toyota dealer is cheaper to repair. IN OTHER WORDS If THE TRUCK SELLER SCAM YOU I SUGEST YOU TO RETURN IT. Or tell me how much did you pay for this truck.

If the seller lies or no history its against the law you could report to the dmv or sue him as a fraudulent.


Option 2 go to your local Toyota dealership pay $60 diagnostic results and the dealer advisor (mechanic) will quote the price of repair. My price is for the Los Angeles area in Toyota of Glendale. Your area will be cheaper. Orange county You won't waste more time. My truck looks new and my engine oil stills yellow not black.for my first 60,000 after service.

Toyota independent mechanic is more expensive than the dealer

Show the pictures of your engine and the truck
Click to expand...

You should really stop posting.
 
houjames98765 said:
Ok I have the same problem with my 4Runner 4cyl the engine is dirty inside they need to change the position gasket and change throttle position sensor and clean throttle body buy OEM. Engine gasket replacement, replace fuel filter and injectors, fuel system cleaning, replace both hoses, radiator cap, new anti freeze. Spark plug cables, and spark plug, thermostat and all the rubber tubes need to be placed. I will estimate about $1,000 - $1,100 on the dealership and your truck will become a brand new truck but the mechanic will not know how to repair because there is special tools. But mechanic will charge from $950 -$1,300 Toyota dealer is cheaper to repair. IN OTHER WORDS If THE TRUCK SELLER SCAM YOU I SUGEST YOU TO RETURN IT. Or tell me how much did you pay for this truck.







If the seller lies or no history its against the law you could report to the dmv or sue him as a fraudulent.


Option 2 go to your local Toyota dealership pay $60 diagnostic results and the dealer advisor (mechanic) will quote the price of repair. My price is for the Los Angeles area in Toyota of Glendale. Your area will be cheaper. Orange county You won't waste more time. My truck looks new and my engine oil stills yellow not black.for my first 60,000 after service.

Toyota independent mechanic is more expensive than the dealer

Show the pictures of your engine and the truck
Click to expand...

What did I just read....
 
GangsterOfLove said:
2000 T4R. 4 cyl. engine. Recently purchased so I don't have the history. 181K miles.

One mechanic fixed a number of things and it ran well for about a week. Now it's throwing codes P300 and P302, runs terrible, especially when cold. I need to find someone who knows these trucks and what goes wrong with them.

North Orange County, CA.

Who can do the job without shotgunning parts it doesn't need?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Well 300 is a general misfire, and 302 is crank sensor related. If it is mostly when cold, that is a good indicator you have a vacuum leak causing a misfire. But 302 is a different, very hard to troubleshoot remotely. I live in Covina, 14 miles from you. I know a lot of competent mechanics near me, closest to you would be Whittier. Others here swear by Yotamasters in Corona, I have no direct experience with them.

Bottom line here is this is NOT rocket science, any good tech could solve it, no need to take it to the dealer. I do my own repairs, but I take too long to get around to my friends stuff, don't think you'd want to wait on me.

:couch2:
 
UnderFire said:
Completely different engine man.

Define "runs terrible", stumbling, misfiring, rough idle, inconsistent idle, won't rev, etc?
Click to expand...

Misses, especially when cold but not always. Occasionally misses badly enough when cold that the check engine light starts flashing. Once it warms up it runs better but idle is rough, sometimes it misses at speed and idle speed is erratic. Some days it runs fine for a few hours but the next day the problem is back.

Revving doesn't seem to be a problem and combined city/hwy mileage is around 18 - not what it should be but not as bad as I would expect based on how poorly it runs.

I have done the obvious - Seafoam in the gas, cleaned the MAF and TPS, checked connections and hoses. The previous mechanic replaced the injector seals, replaced the fuel filter, repaired the sensor wiring, replaced the spark plugs (it had two new ones and two old ones in it along with a broken boot). It ran pretty well after that, the CEL stayed off for about a week even though it still seemed down on power.

I suspected the temp sensor originally because of the cold running issues but the cold start circuit must be working because the fast idle kicks in reliably on cold starts. Wrong CEL code too. Now I suspect multiple issues of an intermittent nature and that is where I start thinking about taking it to a pro.

I looked at the Yotamasters website and it looks like they are mostly a suspension shop. Does anyone have experience with them as troubleshooters?

Thanks!
 
Last edited:
UnderFire said:
Completely different engine man.

Define "runs terrible", stumbling, misfiring, rough idle, inconsistent idle, won't rev, etc?
Click to expand...

I know it's a completely different engine but same advice still applies. Search the internet. There are many articles that show similar problem. Find a forum member knowledgeable to help. If that doesn't work, find a good mechanics. I ended up doing most everything myself on my Landcruiser FJ60 because these mechanics know nothing about those vehicles and the ones that do charge $$. The problems and codes sound similar to the 6 cyl version. sound like op has had many of the things done that you would think are culprits. Good luck.
 
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One more symptom - when the truck is running badly it won't downshift unless you do it via the shifter lever. What controls that on these trucks?

I have a free day tomorrow. Maybe I'll dig in to it a little bit. If the codes are P300 and P302 does it make sense to move the coil pack from cyl 2 to cyl 1 and see if the problem moves? On the 4 cyl engine is #1 cyl at the front or the back?

What's a good way to search for vacuum leaks?

Thanks!
 
GangsterOfLove said:
Misses, especially when cold but not always. Occasionally misses badly enough when cold that the check engine light starts flashing. Once it warms up it runs better but idle is rough, sometimes it misses at speed and idle speed is erratic. Some days it runs fine for a few hours but the next day the problem is back.

Revving doesn't seem to be a problem and combined city/hwy mileage is around 18 - not what it should be but not as bad as I would expect based on how poorly it runs.

I have done the obvious - Seafoam in the gas, cleaned the MAF and TPS, checked connections and hoses. The previous mechanic replaced the injector seals, replaced the fuel filter, repaired the sensor wiring, replaced the spark plugs (it had two new ones and two old ones in it along with a broken boot). It ran pretty well after that, the CEL stayed off for about a week even though it still seemed down on power.

I suspected the temp sensor originally because of the cold running issues but the cold start circuit must be working because the fast idle kicks in reliably on cold starts. Wrong CEL code too. Now I suspect multiple issues of an intermittent nature and that is where I start thinking about taking it to a pro.

I looked at the Yotamasters website and it looks like they are mostly a suspension shop. Does anyone have experience with them as troubleshooters?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

To me that sounds like an intermittent misfire, I'm not entirely sure what could be causing it, but the first thing I'd do is examine the spark plugs to try and find which cylinder the misfire is in, I'd wait till it was running rough, and look at each one.

You're looking for dry or wet fouling here:

NGK Spark Plugs USA

Dry fouling is going to indicate that your misfire is being caused by a lack of fuel. In that case, my first action would be to check any and all electrical connections to the injector on that cylinder, or if it's multiple cylinders, I'd do a fuel filter change and start checking all mechanical sections of the fueling system, and then I'd start worrying about the ECU being bad or something wrong in the harness itself.

Wet Fouling is going to indicate that there's no spark, if that's the case, If you haven't changed the wires, I'd switch that wire and another to see if the problem moved, if it didn't then your problem is most likely one of the ignition coils.
 
You did not mention it but change the plug wires if you have not done so already. My 99 4cyl tacoma is fussy about plug wires. If you are going to use the cheap ones change them every couple of years.
 
GangsterOfLove said:
Misses, especially when cold but not always. Occasionally misses badly enough when cold that the check engine light starts flashing. Once it warms up it runs better but idle is rough, sometimes it misses at speed and idle speed is erratic. Some days it runs fine for a few hours but the next day the problem is back.

Revving doesn't seem to be a problem and combined city/hwy mileage is around 18 - not what it should be but not as bad as I would expect based on how poorly it runs.

I have done the obvious - Seafoam in the gas, cleaned the MAF and TPS, checked connections and hoses. The previous mechanic replaced the injector seals, replaced the fuel filter, repaired the sensor wiring, replaced the spark plugs (it had two new ones and two old ones in it along with a broken boot). It ran pretty well after that, the CEL stayed off for about a week even though it still seemed down on power.

I suspected the temp sensor originally because of the cold running issues but the cold start circuit must be working because the fast idle kicks in reliably on cold starts. Wrong CEL code too. Now I suspect multiple issues of an intermittent nature and that is where I start thinking about taking it to a pro.

I looked at the Yotamasters website and it looks like they are mostly a suspension shop. Does anyone have experience with them as troubleshooters?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Ok check your engine oil if is dark and still you need to replace this following part is
GASKET, CYLINDER HEA part # 1121375030 put OEM part tell you mechanic need a clean up of the inside that's why it runs terrible the 4Runner will be a 20 - 21 mpg not 18 take this number to your local Toyota dealer PARTS department it cost $14 AFTER THIS SERVICE PUT OEM OIL FIlTER

READ THIS

OIL FILTERS

Genuine Toyota oil filters help protect your engine against dirt and other contaminants that can cause internal wear, while allowing adequate flow to internal engine components. These oil filters incorporate safety features like a bypass valve to help prevent restricted oil flow in the event of a clogged filter, and an anti-drainback valve, which prevents oil from draining from the engine into the oil pan during cold starts. Remember, not all oil filters meet Toyota’s stringent specifications. A non-Toyota filter element may not work as effectively and could even clog, causing costly engine damage. To protect your engine (and your pocketbook) always specify a Genuine Toyota oil filter.
 
Last edited:
UnderFire said:
To me that sounds like an intermittent misfire, I'm not entirely sure what could be causing it, but the first thing I'd do is examine the spark plugs to try and find which cylinder the misfire is in, I'd wait till it was running rough, and look at each one.

You're looking for dry or wet fouling here:

NGK Spark Plugs USA

Dry fouling is going to indicate that your misfire is being caused by a lack of fuel. In that case, my first action would be to check any and all electrical connections to the injector on that cylinder, or if it's multiple cylinders, I'd do a fuel filter change and start checking all mechanical sections of the fueling system, and then I'd start worrying about the ECU being bad or something wrong in the harness itself.

Wet Fouling is going to indicate that there's no spark, if that's the case, If you haven't changed the wires, I'd switch that wire and another to see if the problem moved, if it didn't then your problem is most likely one of the ignition coils.
Click to expand...

This engine doesn't have spark plug wires. Each plug has what I assume to be its own coil mounted on top of it.



I'll pull the plugs tomorrow after a bit of cold running and see what they look like. Does a P302 code indicate that the problem is likely in cylinder #2?

Thanks!
 
GangsterOfLove said:
This engine doesn't have spark plug wires. Each plug has what I assume to be its own coil mounted on top of it.



I'll pull the plugs tomorrow after a bit of cold running and see what they look like.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yep, 2000 is the changeover year where they went to coil on plug instead of the 2 coils and plug wires, wasn't sure which one you had.

Not sure on the codes, I'm more mechanically inclined than electronically lol.
 
You have the last version. Should have double checked. You can get it figured out, there is always a reason behind it not magic
 
houjames98765 said:
Ok check your engine oil if is dark and still you need to replace this following part is
GASKET, CYLINDER HEA part # 1121375030 put OEM part tell you mechanic need a clean up of the inside that's why it runs terrible the 4Runner will be a 20 - 21 mpg not 18 take this number to your local Toyota dealer PARTS department it cost $14 AFTER THIS SERVICE PUT OEM OIL FIlTER

READ THIS

OIL FILTERS

Genuine Toyota oil filters help protect your engine against dirt and other contaminants that can cause internal wear, while allowing adequate flow to internal engine components. These oil filters incorporate safety features like a bypass valve to help prevent restricted oil flow in the event of a clogged filter, and an anti-drainback valve, which prevents oil from draining from the engine into the oil pan during cold starts. Remember, not all oil filters meet Toyota’s stringent specifications. A non-Toyota filter element may not work as effectively and could even clog, causing costly engine damage. To protect your engine (and your pocketbook) always specify a Genuine Toyota oil filter.
Click to expand...
Just stop posting! Whatever the hell you're trying to tell him makes zero sense. Why the **** would he take it to a dealer for a new head gasket and oil filter? You clearly gave no idea what you are talking about and should absolutely not be trying to give advice. You proved how little you know when you thought swapping a grille and tail lights were illegal.
 
Twan said:
Just stop posting! Whatever the hell you're trying to tell him makes zero sense. Why the **** would he take it to a dealer for a new head gasket and oil filter? You clearly gave no idea what you are talking about and should absolutely not be trying to give advice. You proved how little you know when you thought swapping a grille and tail lights were illegal.
Click to expand...

LOL :bravo:
 
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