I know it's been covered but I can't find the answer I'm looking for. I've been talking back in forth with Zuk here in PHX about getting regeared, looks like I can't get it done til October though. He was recommending going with JustDifferentials.com cause he does work on the cast clamshell in the front. So if I pull my 3rds myself how much should a regear cost? What gears should I run? This is my daily driver and weekend offroader, right now my gas MPG's and power is way down, I'd like to be back as close to stock as possible. What are you guys running with similar setups?
Regear after 285's
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the great him
Elite Member
well im an auto trans and have my stock gears still and other than searching for gears on the freeway when i come to a little hill im happy with the stock gearing so far for street use, this summer im going wheeling for a week with my truck and we shall see... but i have a feeling ill want to regear to at least 4:56 and possibly even to 4:88s cause i know the bigger tires and weight of armor will really be putting a strain on my trans and transfer case
99runnerwa
New member
I am running 33's on my dd/weekend wheeler with 4.56 gears. I have the auto as well and am happy with the performance. The mileage on the other hand isnt all that great but hey its a lifted suv what can i expect?
I went with the east coast Gear supply and was pretty happy with the experiance. my differentials arrived at my door, i swapped them out and took the old ones with the packing labels to fedex and they were on their way back. My rig was down only a weekend, would have been quicker but i found some other issues that i took care of.
i went with gears and ARB lockers, i think over all it was some where around 2500 for front and rear
I went with the east coast Gear supply and was pretty happy with the experiance. my differentials arrived at my door, i swapped them out and took the old ones with the packing labels to fedex and they were on their way back. My rig was down only a weekend, would have been quicker but i found some other issues that i took care of.
i went with gears and ARB lockers, i think over all it was some where around 2500 for front and rear
Rc4r
New member
I went to an offroad shop and they called Yukon directly and asked about my runner and they said 285s with armor ( bumpers, skids,sliders) to go with 5.29s they said I will see the most improvement with theses.
I also have toyo mts witch usually run about 15ibs a tire heavier Then most other mts.
I also have toyo mts witch usually run about 15ibs a tire heavier Then most other mts.
Mr. Leary
New member
There are two variables here: Weight and tire size.
If you have increased one, you should go with 4.56 or 4.88.
If you have increased both, you should look at 4.88 or 5.29.
For example, if your truck is relatively close to stock weight but has larger tires, then you should not need to go deeper then 4.88 gearsets, and you can probably get by with 4.56. If you have added 500+ lbs. of armor and/or gear you may want to consider 5.29 gearsets, and at least 4.88.
Word of caution. Most of the people that I know who dropped 4.56s in thier Yotas said that the difference was not big enough to really be worth it and that they should have stuck with stock gears and "took the money and ran" or gone to 4.88s.
5.29 gears are the deepest that you can go in your truck. If you want some idea of what it will be like at highway speed, ride around with your overdrive off for a while. The RPMs will only be slightly higher with the OD off on stock gears then they are with the OD on with 5.29s. If you drive 60 you will have a pretty good idea of what the rpm level will be at 65 with 5.29s.
Hope this helps,
Leary
If you have increased one, you should go with 4.56 or 4.88.
If you have increased both, you should look at 4.88 or 5.29.
For example, if your truck is relatively close to stock weight but has larger tires, then you should not need to go deeper then 4.88 gearsets, and you can probably get by with 4.56. If you have added 500+ lbs. of armor and/or gear you may want to consider 5.29 gearsets, and at least 4.88.
Word of caution. Most of the people that I know who dropped 4.56s in thier Yotas said that the difference was not big enough to really be worth it and that they should have stuck with stock gears and "took the money and ran" or gone to 4.88s.
5.29 gears are the deepest that you can go in your truck. If you want some idea of what it will be like at highway speed, ride around with your overdrive off for a while. The RPMs will only be slightly higher with the OD off on stock gears then they are with the OD on with 5.29s. If you drive 60 you will have a pretty good idea of what the rpm level will be at 65 with 5.29s.
Hope this helps,
Leary
the great him
Elite Member
a SC will have some affect but when you are off road there is never a replacement for gearing... your motor and trans wont have the strain and load in it with the lower gears... look a guys who are shoving V8s in their jeeps and other rigs or building high HP/TQ rigs vs guys who are using mini trucks and suzuki samurais and the like, small motors but generally they are gearing them way down adding dual case and 529s ect. they still go everywhere the big HP trucks go and some places they cant... sure adding more power will help you on the highway and around town but it will only increase the strain and stress on your transmission or clutch besides its cheaper to regear and throw in some lockers while your at it...
Mr. Leary
New member
I was actually talking to Jacque at TRDParts4U about that the other day. His truck was built very similarly to mine (bigger tires and lots of armor). He said that the gears (4.88) made a noticeable difference, but it wasn't until he added the SC that the truck felt like it had the power back on the highway.
Kid is right about gearing, although a slushbox will do wonders to offset this effect. Deeper gears mean more low end torque, which is what you want for offroad performance.
Kid is right about gearing, although a slushbox will do wonders to offset this effect. Deeper gears mean more low end torque, which is what you want for offroad performance.
YotaZach85
New member
4.88's at a minimum. I put 4.56's in my Tacoma and was pissed after I drove it, wasn't worth the money at all and it only cost me about $600, I'd a been REALLY pissed if I paid upwards of $2000 like other people have paid.
the great him
Elite Member
do it yourself... its not hard hell i set up gears last weekend for the first time, and its so much easier than everyone makes it out to be... for me hard part was getting the damn third back in the axle housing...
Pikeman
New member
If you want to set-up the gears yourself average cost of a gear set is $150-$200 per axle and master install kit(bearings and seals) another $100 or so per axle. If you want to get pre-assembled diffs and just swap them out yourself they start at about $600 per axle without lockers and go from there depending on your choice of lockers. East Coast gear Supply(ECGS) is a reputable company that several members here have used. You can also order complete diffs from Marlin Crawler and Inchworm gear. I used to be on the 4.56 band wagon but now when I regear I am going to go 4.88 since I have so much armor and it is only 250rpm difference at 65.
04LTtacoma
New member
You don't need to re-gear if you are going up 1". You could go up wit 33" tires without re-gearing.
Pikeman
New member
Minimum he is going up is 2" since the largest stock tire is a 31" equiv. I have been driving around for 2 years now without regearing so yes it can be done but I would as well as several other guys on the board highly suggest a re-gear. This has already been mentioned by a few other posters about the addition strain put on the drivetrain by making everything work harder to turn the tires and if he has it the weight of armor. I have not re-geared simply due to economic reasons but plan on doing it soon.
brian2sun
Elite Member
Yes, 4.88s + SC on a heavy 4runner would definitely be plenty. It'll feel like a rocketship in comparison to stock, but there's nothing wrong with that! But, 4.88s + SC with 35s is perfect IMO. That's what I plan to do.
For a while I wished I had gone with 5.29s since my highway rpms are only 3K @ 80 mph in O/D w/ 4.88s/33s. That, and I can still feel it lagging on hills. And that's important to me because nothing's flat where I live.
But now I'm actually glad I did 4.88s because I've decided the SC is the answer to my power loss, especially when I go 35s next tire set. My highway rpms will be perfect (mid-upper 2Ks) and the SC will more than make up for the lost power.
I dare say that 4.88s/SC/35s will still be noticeably faster than bone stock/no SC.
Fantastic response. Thanks! Everything I wanted to know.
99runnerwa
New member
ok wow i am a serous idiot. I had to go back into my receipts because i was convinced i had gone with 4.56 gears, but turns out i too got the 4.88.
Originally i was going to get the 4.56 because that would have put me back at a stock final drive ratio. But at the last minute i went with 4.88 to compensate for the additional weight. i apologize to any one and every one who i was giving false info to.
:smashputer:
Originally i was going to get the 4.56 because that would have put me back at a stock final drive ratio. But at the last minute i went with 4.88 to compensate for the additional weight. i apologize to any one and every one who i was giving false info to.
:smashputer:
Reviving this thread rather than starting a whole new one.
I am on 285's with a manual trans, lots of added weight, and the stock 4.10 gearing.
On road, I actually find the gearing to be totally fine. A little sluggish and definitely easier to stall out than when I had my old bald 265's, but still very livable.
However, off road, the gearing absolutely sucks. I've started doing a lot rockier trails and it often becomes a game of riding the clutch as I teeter on the ragged edge of stalling out. When said situation is on a steep rock face, its pretty sketchy as a stall could mean loosing control, rolling back down the face and possibly rolling over.
Dual cases is what I ultimately need. But that won't be an option until Im done my current run of classes (about a year and a half). So my question is, how much of a difference will regearing to 4.88's or even 5.29's make in steep off road terrain in 4-low? A regear to 4.88's would give me 19% lower gearing, while the addition of a chain-driven case would give me 228% lower gearing. Pretty incomparable difference.
This vehicle is still my daily, so I can't be spinning ridiculously high rpms on the highway either. In fact, I find the 4.10's with the 33's to be quite nice on the highway. I do plan to go to 35's for my next set of tires so regearing is going to happen eventually anyways.
I am on 285's with a manual trans, lots of added weight, and the stock 4.10 gearing.
On road, I actually find the gearing to be totally fine. A little sluggish and definitely easier to stall out than when I had my old bald 265's, but still very livable.
However, off road, the gearing absolutely sucks. I've started doing a lot rockier trails and it often becomes a game of riding the clutch as I teeter on the ragged edge of stalling out. When said situation is on a steep rock face, its pretty sketchy as a stall could mean loosing control, rolling back down the face and possibly rolling over.
Dual cases is what I ultimately need. But that won't be an option until Im done my current run of classes (about a year and a half). So my question is, how much of a difference will regearing to 4.88's or even 5.29's make in steep off road terrain in 4-low? A regear to 4.88's would give me 19% lower gearing, while the addition of a chain-driven case would give me 228% lower gearing. Pretty incomparable difference.
This vehicle is still my daily, so I can't be spinning ridiculously high rpms on the highway either. In fact, I find the 4.10's with the 33's to be quite nice on the highway. I do plan to go to 35's for my next set of tires so regearing is going to happen eventually anyways.
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I have 285's with a manual trans and stock gearing. It sucks! It sucks because I live in the mountains. I fix the off road part with dual cases. That part rocks. But the daily driving up and down the hills sucks since I jumped in tire size. I use to run in 4/5th gear now it's 3/4th and sometimes even 2nd. I hate it but it's going to be awhile before I get it fixed. I want to put an arb up in the front, so that's going to add to the cost. I feel like I'm going to stall sometimes easily. In parking lots I use my crawl box a lot. I'm going to do 4:88's because I'll never go bigger than 285's
