Removing rear hatch cover

Dianna

Member
I had my license plate bolts break off, even though I used anti-seize. I took off the rear panel cover to try to remove the bolts from the back. I was able to get one out, the other one also broke off on the inside and I ended up drilling and tapping. I know this information is located in a build thread, but I wanted to make it easier to search for, and also to show a pic with the location of all of the clips.

1. Remove the plastic cover over the interior handle and use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the handle on.

2. Start at the passenger corner and look for the small opening. Use a plastic clip removal tool, or put tape on your metal clip removal tool, or you will scratch your paint. After you get it started, you may need a second took to pop off that first clip. It requires quite a bit of force to get the first one. Pop off all of the clips.

2. Disconnect the two electrical connectors to the lights.

3. Push the panel toward the window to free it

4. If you need to access inside the door, disconnect the wiring to the window motor, and remove 3 bolts and 2 clips holding down the window motor bracket.

5. Start pulling the plastic away from the door. You can put it back on using the adhesive, so don't tear it away. Use a razor blade to cut the adhesive as you pull it away.

A few tips; If you close the rear hatch with the electrical connectors disconnected, you will not be able to open the hatch from the outside! Don't ask me how I know :redface: ... twice... ugh. When you make that mistake, crawl in the back, and you can either reconnect the electrical connectors, or take off the little white door and push the metal tab IN to open the hatch.

To reassemble, begin dropping the panel in from the top and give it a few taps down to set it correctly. Make sure all of the tabs are on the panel, and none remained on the door when you pulled it off. I had one stay in the door, pop it off and assemble it in the panel.

This is how you turn a 5 minute job of swapping a license plate into a few hours long project :(
 

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Lift gate handle panel

Anyone with a red 4 runner want to trade out your liftgate handle panel? I want to match the red a d currently have red.
 
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Thanks for this write-up.
My rear fascia has lost its seal, and I need to replace the rubber boot on the electronic latch.
So I ordered a car trim removal kit from eBay and I’ll be attempting this on the weekend.
 

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Thanks for this write-up.
My rear fascia has lost its seal, and I need to replace the rubber boot on the electronic latch.
So I ordered a car trim removal kit from eBay and I’ll be attempting this on the weekend.

Are you replacing the rear garnish entirely or something else? I have the same gap and have been trying to think of the best way to fix it. The oem rubber seal is a joke lol, I do not know if it ever did much. To me it seems like the black garnishes like to bend over time.
 
Mine is a bit loose so I’m going to have to take a closer look at it before I decide what I need to do to address that. I did order a new seal on eBay for $8 shipped. Pretty sure I’m not going to replace the whole thing even if I can’t fix the gap.
Here’s a video I found on YouTube on removing the lift gate panel to replace the switch.
2010 4Runner Liftgate button replacement - 5th Gen - YouTube

Seal on eBay.
Genuine Toyota Handle Panel Seal 76819-35010 | eBay

And this is the aftermarket switch cover.
Amazon.com: Rear Hatch Button w/ Screws Liftgate Switch Latch Cover for Toyota Prius Lexus 4runner Scion Camry Trunk Door Release w/Screws Repair Fix Kit Replacement: Automotive
 
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The seal is kind of a pain in the ass to install, being on a contoured surface, requiring a very slight, consistent overhang and being one-sided adhesive so you really only get one shot at it. Good luck.
 
I did this a couple weeks ago. I ended up only replacing the switch cover and not the gasket/seal.
The seal doesn’t keep water out of the door so no fear of premature rust. Doesn’t keep out dust either as you can see.
The switch cover had turned into a gooey mess as many people have reported. Also, 3 of 4 of the nuts that hold the fascia/handle panel were loose so it was a good thing I went this way. I ended up using blue Loctite when reassembling. There are some paper thin rubber washers on the bolts that I did not replace. May revisit this in a few years. I would also like to replace the screws for the license plate lights with stainless as soon as I figure out what size.
I’m gonna post some more pics, hopefully it can help.
 

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More pics...
 

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And more...
 

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And more pics.
 

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I replaced the rusted screws from the license plate light assembly with cheapo stainless. I don’t want problems with them down the line.
Size is #8 x 5/8”.
The heads on these were a bit oversized so I ground them a bit using a drill and a file.
 

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