repaint hood to stock condition?

Methodical

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Im about to buy an 04 4runner sr5, its in good condition except for the hood - massive paint cracking. No paint has fallen off, its just cracked, severely.

I can provide pictures in a couple of days, but I doubt it's going to buff out.

I live in Fairbanks Alaska and this is something I've seen on a previous vehicle. It happened (I think) when I slammed the hood on a very cold day (probably -40 or lower).

The cracks are random and completely, uniformly covering the hood, but yet are not connected at all. just a bunch of small cracks, each 2 to 4 inches long.

Anyway, I'm obviously going to save a few dollars because of it but I'm wondering how hard it will be to fix if I so desire, so two questions..

Anyone got a ballpark estimate on how much it costs to repaint a hood? I have no clue.

and do you think that with the paint being 4 years old...it'll match? (its a metallic silver)
 
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The color is titanium metallic, code 1d4.

And yes it cracked all the way down to the base coat.

attached is a picture.

If I buy a new hood and have it painted with the factory color, think it'll match? does metallic silver fade at all?
 

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If I buy a new hood and have it painted with the factory color, think it'll match? does metallic silver fade at all? [/B]

Not sure about fading, but they could paint the hood, and then blend in the fenders and it should look ok. Not an expert, so I suggest you should drive up to your body shop and ask.
 
I recently painted parts of my galactic grey pearl 4runner and no blending was necessary. Don't waste you're money. I'm pretty sure galactic grey is a harder color than silver.
 

Anyway, I'm obviously going to save a few dollars because of it but I'm wondering how hard it will be to fix if I so desire, so two questions..

Anyone got a ballpark estimate on how much it costs to repaint a hood? I have no clue.

and do you think that with the paint being 4 years old...it'll match? (its a metallic silver) [/B]


That will cost about $1500.00 to fix, maybe more.
 
Just get the paint code by doing a little research. Any reputable paint shop can run the code and match the paint accordingly. Unless your car has badly faded paint, then thats a different story.
 
Re: Re: repaint hood to stock condition?

fugarza said:
That will cost about $1500.00 to fix, maybe more.

Thats crazy i dont know where you live but i wouldnt pay more than $300.
 
Re: Re: repaint hood to stock condition?

fugarza said:
That will cost about $1500.00 to fix, maybe more.

1500 to paint a hood... that estimate is about 1000 too high,

figure 3-4 hrs paint time and 1 hr sand and prep plus paint and materials, you are looking at 4-5 hrs labor at 75/hour plus another 150-200 for paint & materials... there is no need to replace the hood. Sand down, prime & paint..

I would discuss with the bodyshop the necessity to blend. They can look up the paint code and determine the number of paint variants that exist for that paint code. The shop may have a sample of the original or "prime" formula, which can be used to determine how closely it will match your truck. If there are a lot of variants, blending may be needed. The differences are subtle and would be more visible, for example if you needed to paint a door, quarter or fender because there would be a larger area to see the difference in color. The hood to fender edge is a smaller area because the panel goes away from one's line of sight and does not show as much contrast as other adjacent panels. In order to properly blend into a 4R's fender, careful masking around the flare will be needed, or the flare will need to be removed. In this case blending will bring added expense. It really depends on how particular you are in regards to your truck.
 
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AlphaQup said:
Just get the paint code by doing a little research. Any reputable paint shop can run the code and match the paint accordingly. Unless your car has badly faded paint, then thats a different story.

clearcoats contain a uv absobing compound to resist fading...
 
Re: Re: Re: repaint hood to stock condition?

rook said:
1500 to paint a hood... that estimate is about 1000 too high

I had a bodyshop replace a lower lip (didn't need painting) then they had to prep the right fender, blend, and some other stuff on my BMW and that was running in the high 2g's.

500 sounds like a maaco job to me.
They need to remove the hood and any plastic pieces. The paint is cracked so I wouldn't accept anything less then stripping that hood to the metal, priming, and painting. Then they might need to blend if it doesn't match plus reinstall the hood.

1500 may sound high but 500 sounds low, then again I could be wrong. I hope you can find it for 500 since it's a lot better then 1500.
 
Re: Wow

utah1 said:
that's cold! Have you checked the paint warranty?

I have never heard of this, i assume you mean bumper to bumper coverage. it's an '04, so it's expired, and its also got 54,000 miles.

and thank you all for your excellent wisdom and advice.

Has anyone else seen cracking like that? Its not too uncommon here in alaska...
 
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rook said:
clearcoats contain a uv absobing compound to resist fading...

So you're saying 10-15 years down the line, my rig never seen a garage in its life, my paint would be the same shade as the day it rolled off the showroom floor?

I know for sure in older cars, fading occurs weather you like it or not. Try taking off emblems and see if the paint matches.
 
Originally posted by AlphaQup
So you're saying 10-15 years down the line, my rig never seen a garage in its life, my paint would be the same shade as the day it rolled off the showroom floor?

in that amount of time, who knows. the op has a 4 yr old paint job there will be minimal fading in that time.

I know for sure in older cars, fading occurs weather you like it or not. Try taking off emblems and see if the paint matches.

I've seen it too, and there are many factors that cause fading; oxidation, temperature changes, moisture, sunlight all contribute. If you buff the area surrounding the removed emblem , you would notice the fading is not as severe once surface scratches and oxidation are polished away. Single stage finishes, those that do not require clearcoat, will fade at a far greater rate than basecoat/clearcoat finishes. The clear layer provides protection for the base against oxidation by effectively sealing the color in. Harmful sun rays are blocked with a uv absorbing compound such as benzatriazole.


The op's pics look like a bad refinish job. In all the painting I've done, I have never seen those type of large cracks. It is most likely related to the difference in temperature underhood vs the extreme outside temps experienced in Alaska.
 

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