Replacement Engine for 1998 4Runner - reputable company?

[Yelxo]

Unfortunately I spun a bearing and have been told that I need to replace the engine by my mechanic. I have found a couple of used engines but they have over 300k miles on them - so not inclined to go that path.

I am looking into getting a rebuilt or remanufactured engine and doing research online. Does anyone have any recommendations on a reputable company that they have got an engine from?

And lastly I don't want the added expense of a JDM engine since I won't be wrenching it myself.

A million thanks for any help that you all can provide! I want to keep my truck on the road - the body is mint!

 

[Bad Luck]

Unfortunately I spun a bearing and have been told that I need to replace the engine by my mechanic. I have found a couple of used engines but they have over 300k miles on them - so not inclined to go that path.

I am looking into getting a rebuilt or remanufactured engine and doing research online. Does anyone have any recommendations on a reputable company that they have got an engine from?

And lastly I don't want the added expense of a JDM engine since I won't be wrenching it myself.

A million thanks for any help that you all can provide! I want to keep my truck on the road - the body is mint!

What engine do you have?

 

[bmason8159]

Yota1 performance

 

[JoeT4R]

Yota1 performance

Their current lead time for a 5VZ is 7 to 8 months according to their website. That's a looooong time to wait, but, it's better than not having an engine at all.

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[ShannanC]

I used JDM King Motors of Houston for my 99. I got a used 5VZFE engine for $1000 roughly and had it installed. 60K on engine with new timing belt, pulleys, and water pump installed from previous owner in Japan. I have around 30K on it now with no problems whatsoever.

 

[T4R2014]

What's the added expense of a JDM engine? Swapping a harness and pulleys? They are generally a better bet. A shop I know has installed plenty of JDM 5VZ and VG33 engines with great luck. You need to inspect the engine before purchasing. Back when I bought mine in 2015, you could find a ton of 5VZs still with NGK plugs in one head and Denso in the other - a fair sign that mileage is quite low.

Sure it's not a 100% verification, but once you deal with an average stateside junkyard that will do anything and everything to make a sale on their junk, then you will see the value in JDM engines. That said, they are WAY more money than they used to be now.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I don't know of any sources of 'low' mileage US 5VZ-FE engines. Partly because there are not very many low mileage 4Runners, Tacomas and T100's left on the road and even less of those that are wrecked with an intact engine. Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market but just know that not all sellers are honest so you have to inspect it and have a compression test done right there. Patience is going to be your best tactic right now. That and your phone dialer - many places won't list inventory until it's on their yard but they can tell you over the phone when they might expect a shipment. Internet searches aren't nearly as good as actually talking to them.

I had a JDM engine installed and it is extra work but they are very good engines. I agree with above that they have become expensive. I paid $1300 for mine 5 years ago but the price is nearly double that now as more and more 5VZ-FE engines are failing and having less junk units worth selling.

 

[mtbtim]

Another vote for Yota1 Performance. Yota1 has an excellent reputation, but because of that, they have a fairly long lead time and you'll have to shell out a decent amount of money. If you can do the work yourself, maybe roll the dice on a JDM engine. If you are going to pay someone to do the work, definitely go with a rebuilt engine. It would suck to pay for all that labor just to find out you got a shitty engine.

If you want to do the work yourself, I have a 4 part video series you can use.

Part 1:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0EtZnqzJhI4" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Part 2:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AvHvk9N-hTA" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Part 3:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_G_zqDC9kFM" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Part 4:
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eqt0iZQOA04" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Bad Luck]

Still waiting to hear from the OP if he’s looking for a 5VZ or 3RZ…..

 

[mtbtim]

Still waiting to hear from the OP if he’s looking for a 5VZ or 3RZ…..

Maybe he found his answer and he doesn't need us anymore. I feel so used and unappreciated.

 

[brillo_76]

This is typical . Folks just disappear.

I know I just compression checked and resealed the engine I put in one of my rigs. It had around 170k on it. The only mistake I made was not replacing the injectors as I had one fail 5k or so later. My guess is it was from sitting non running for 3 years. Other than that, the engine is fine.

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[clearock]

with this ? and the same for the trans coming up so many times now, and as more and more 3rd gens r getting to the 300k mark and passed this will keep coming up. It mite b worth making a couple of Sticky's on said subject matter, and people can aslo go into "properly" rebuilding said as in bearings to use, better understanding of head rebuilds, etc etc

tThere r things many of us learn over time that could help others as they go down this path, I know many say JDM engine but they have cons and pluses like any path which could be address at the start of the posting. There is info like, if ur going to rebuild u can use a 3.0L 2nd gen crankshaft which have the same profile as the 3.4L crank but the 3.0L are forged shafts vs the 3.4L cast shafts....

 

[Yelxo]

Maybe he found his answer and he doesn't need us anymore. I feel so used and unappreciated.

Sorry for the delay responding to these posts - lots of great ideas. My engine is the 3.4L 5VZ.

 

[Yelxo]

What engine do you have?

It's from a 1998 4Runner Ltd - so it's the 5VZ

 

[jgue467]

I went with a jasper about 50K ago, all is good, purrs like a kitten at idle, uses an unmeasurable (on dipstick) amount of oil in 5K OCIs, 15-17 mpg.

 

[Crisco Fats]

In the same situation as the OP, 98 blew an engine and I think I’m going to put a JDM in it. Haven’t sourced it yet but it makes the most sense to me. Anything else I should consider getting done or checking while the engine is out? 300k on it and I’ll be having someone else do the change.

 

[brillo_76]

I went with a jasper about 50K ago, all is good, purrs like a kitten at idle, uses an unmeasurable (on dipstick) amount of oil in 5K OCIs, 15-17 mpg.

Are Jasper engines readily available?

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[gamefreakgc]

In the same situation as the OP, 98 blew an engine and I think I’m going to put a JDM in it. Haven’t sourced it yet but it makes the most sense to me. Anything else I should consider getting done or checking while the engine is out? 300k on it and I’ll be having someone else do the change.

Yes. A few things to consider:

Replacing starter contacts (starter 'rebuild')
Timing belt and water pump if mileage unknown
Radiator replacement if original
New engine mounts (I wish I had replaced mine)

There might be others but these jobs are immensely easier with the engine out. I cannot stress how simple these repairs are with the engine out and how frustrating and longer they are in the engine in. With the JDM, you'll also have to swap a fair amount of parts over from your blown USDM engine, including the crank pulley so just be ready for that as well.

 

[Crisco Fats]

Yes. A few things to consider:

Replacing starter contacts (starter 'rebuild')
Timing belt and water pump if mileage unknown
Radiator replacement if original
New engine mounts (I wish I had replaced mine)

There might be others but these jobs are immensely easier with the engine out. I cannot stress how simple these repairs are with the engine out and how frustrating and longer they are in the engine in. With the JDM, you'll also have to swap a fair amount of parts over from your blown USDM engine, including the crank pulley so just be ready for that as well.

Starter and radiator are < 1 year old. Will do the timing belt and water pump (30K miles) as well as the engine mounts. Mechanic is looking locally for a good looking 3.4L rather than going JDM but its still an option unless we can't find something.



Rally appreciate this forum. I'm almost 31 and I've been driving my 98 4Runner since I was 16 thanks to good upkeep and repair advice from this forum over the years.

 

[T4R2014]

Starter and radiator are < 1 year old. Will do the timing belt and water pump (30K miles) as well as the engine mounts. Mechanic is looking locally for a good looking 3.4L rather than going JDM but its still an option unless we can't find something.



Rally appreciate this forum. I'm almost 31 and I've been driving my 98 4Runner since I was 16 thanks to good upkeep and repair advice from this forum over the years.

A genuinely good 3.4 in a local wrecking yard will be a tough one. If it's a 96-98 you can verify with the odometer. 99+ and I would just assume they are lying if they claim under 200k miles. You're going to want to ask for a vin and run a carfax to verify the mileage is accurate. It's going to take a pretty good deal to makes it come out on top over a JDM. Best thing I can recommend when buying JDM is to pay with credit card, especially if you aren't able to inspect it before buying.