Replacing '03T4R Brake Pads

[MDT4RNR]

I have tried my darndest to find a write up here as to how to change the brake pads on a V6 '03 T4R and have only found members saying they have done it or that they were getting ready to do it.
My questions are:
A) Does any of you know where I can get a write up as to how to change them (besides Chilton/Haynes repair CD's)?

B) If you have done this your self, could you share with us a step by step (pictures will be helpful ) as to how to change them?

I have performed brake pads replacements on my old 1996 Honda Accord by following the step by step Haynes Manuals, but unfortunately at this moment I rather invest the money I would spend on a manual on something else like good brake pads .

Thanks, and I look forward to reading your write up/following the links to another wrtte up.

Dax

 

[toybox]

The front pads are super easy to replace.

After the wheel is off there is a clip on top of the pads that you just pull off. Then there is two metal retention pins that you can pull out with a pair of pliers. Pull out the pads and then push the pistons back into the caliper (I use a c-clamp and one of the old pads to do this). Install pads, then pins, then clip and done.

Sounds simplistic but it really is pretty simple, sorry though if you were looking for a complete write-up.

 

[MDT4RNR]

The front pads are super easy to replace.

Pull out the pads and then push the pistons back into the caliper (I use a c-clamp and one of the old pads to do this). Install pads, then pins, then clip and done.

Does the brake Caliper lifts up or down to clear the rotor so that I can fit the C-Clamp w/old pad and depress the pistons?

Also would I have to open the brake fluid cap to let some air out as I depress the pistons? (read someones vague comment on this doing a search)

Thank you for your reply and sorry for all the questions.

BTW: At the same time I am to change my brake pads, I am going to spray paint the calipers with caliper Paint (Cast Aluminum color) brand VHT. I allready have the write up on how to do this

 

[toybox]

Does the brake Caliper lifts up or down to clear the rotor so that I can fit the C-Clamp w/old pad and depress the pistons?

No, the caliper is still fixed. The pads slide out of the top after the pins are taken out. It is just a wee bit more trouble pushing the pistons in (especially since there are 4 pistons) but you'll improvise.

Also would I have to open the brake fluid cap to let some air out as I depress the pistons? (read someones vague comment on this doing a search)

I always do this but I don't know if you *have* to do it. I don't see how it would hurt unless you forget to resecure the lid when you are done.

 

[greasefingers]

I just remove the calipers and pads together. It makes it easier to squeeze the pistons all the way back into the cylinders. Keep the old pads in place once the caliper is removed and then use the C-clamp to drive the pistons back. Pressing on the center of the pad drives the 2 pistons into the cylinders in an even & straight manor (very important). You do not want to score the cylinder with the piston, by pressing on only one edge of the piston.

The fluid level will rise as you drive the pistons back. You must drive them back or there will not be enough clearance for the pads to fit onto the rotor; since the new pads will be thicker. Watch the level as it can many times over flow as you work to other pistons. It is usually necessary to siphon some brake fluid out of the reservoir. I use a turkey baster, from the Dollar Store, for this.

I have not tried to replace the pads without removing the calipers, as this is the first vehicle that I have owned with a fixed caliper (more than one piston per caliper). So you may be able to avoid removing the caliper? You still have to drive the pistons back in. I do not like the idea of using a screwdriver to force them, as many people do; so I just remove the whole assembly.

 

[TechWrench]

I just remove the calipers and pads together. It makes it easier to squeeze the pistons all the way back into the cylinders. Keep the old pads in place once the caliper is removed and then use the C-clamp to drive the pistons back. Pressing on the center of the pad drives the 2 pistons into the cylinders in an even & straight manor (very important). You do not want to score the cylinder with the piston, by pressing on only one edge of the piston.

The fluid level will rise as you drive the pistons back. You must drive them back or there will not be enough clearance for the pads to fit onto the rotor; since the new pads will be thicker. Watch the level as it can many times over flow as you work to other pistons. It is usually necessary to siphon some brake fluid out of the reservoir. I use a turkey baster, from the Dollar Store, for this.

I have not tried to replace the pads without removing the calipers, as this is the first vehicle that I have owned with a fixed caliper (more than one piston per caliper). So you may be able to avoid removing the caliper? You still have to drive the pistons back in. I do not like the idea of using a screwdriver to force them, as many people do; so I just remove the whole assembly.

If you have never added any fluid from new, then you shouldn't have to remove any when the calipers have their pistons pushed back in place.