Replacing Driveshaft Grease Zerk with Bolt?

shadow247

shadow247

New member
So I finally broke the Grease Zerk off of my Driveshaft from hitting the Gas Tank.

I knew it was a possibilty, and after bending a rear control arm, it happened.

I was giong to just replace the zerk, but with my Panhard correction, it's going to keep coming close to the tank.

I planned to just drill/tap the fitting and replace with a button head bolt. That way it won't snap off again if I bend something and cause interference with the fuel tank again.


Thoughts? I have already trimmed as much of the fuel tank skid as possible. At this point, its actually hitting the metal tank.
 
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shadow247 said:
So I finally broke the Grease Zerk off of my Driveshaft from hitting the Gas Tank.

I knew it was a possibilty, and after bending a rear control arm, it happened.

I was giong to just replace the zerk, but with my Panhard correction, it's going to keep coming close to the tank.

I planned to just drill/tap the fitting and replace with a button head bolt. That way it won't snap off again if I bend something and cause interference with the fuel tank again.


Thoughts? I have already trimmed as much of the fuel tank skid as possible. At this point, its actually hitting the metal tank.
Click to expand...

Could you just leave the zerk out for normal operations and screw it in whenever you want to grease it, then remove it again? Kind of a nuisance but it's a thought, right?
 
shadow247 said:
So I finally broke the Grease Zerk off of my Driveshaft from hitting the Gas Tank.

I knew it was a possibilty, and after bending a rear control arm, it happened.

I was giong to just replace the zerk, but with my Panhard correction, it's going to keep coming close to the tank.

I planned to just drill/tap the fitting and replace with a button head bolt. That way it won't snap off again if I bend something and cause interference with the fuel tank again.


Thoughts? I have already trimmed as much of the fuel tank skid as possible. At this point, its actually hitting the metal tank.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, zerk fittings aren't unique thread sizes, so if you can work out what threading the zerks are you should just be able to buy a bolt or plug which is the correct threading already instead of trying to drill and tap it.
 
I used a small metric button-head cap screw to do what you are referring to.
I got it from a Thule rivnut package for putting C-channel track into sheetmetal.
My hooptie tap & die set specs it as an M5 0.8 thread if that helps?
 
The zerk is basically just a bolt anyway so it won’t hurt anything. There are some ball joints I have seen that have bolts to plug the grease holes - you take them out and install a zerk or other fitting temporarily to grease it.
 
When you get a lift from Sonoran Steel, he includes a small button head bolt to replace the rear slip yoke zerk fitting for the exact reason you are. So yes, it's been done by lots of people. Nothing new.

You should be able to back out the broken zerk with an easy out. No need to drill and retap. Just match up the size thread and pitch and get yourself a small button head bolt. Easy Peazy.
 
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The jobber boxes at some autoparts or hardware stores should have those zirc plugs with the zerc fittings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I actually have a bag of zerks in my toolbox. I'm not 100% sure but I think somebody on here sent me them via mail sometime last year or the year before. If you want, I can take a picture of them and if you need one or multiple I will be happy to send whatever you need to you. Just let me know.
 
What about one of those low profile needle type zerks? They make some that barely protrude. I've seen even lower profile ones than this in the past.

ac183b5ba5ca4ecc61145def75718820.jpg
 
Romeo1 said:
What about one of those low profile needle type zerks? They make some that barely protrude. I've seen even lower profile ones than this in the past.

ac183b5ba5ca4ecc61145def75718820.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks like it could work...

I will definitely be doing something in the next few weeks. Its coming up on time to grease everything again.
 
If you're wiping a normal zerk off the driveshaft, the head of that will probably get removed as well.

I'd be really interested to be proven wrong though.
 
Depending what clearance you have they also make a low profile 90 degree fitting. I needed those for the Lower Ball Joint on the D60 front axle to clear the u-joints.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JZiggy said:
I installed these sintered filters in place of my slip yoke zerks. Lower profile and will allow air to move both directions so there's no buildup of positive or negative pressure.

I realize they are out of stock on Amazon but I'm sure they can be found somewhere

MettleAir BBV-M6 Flat Pneumatic Muffler Filter, Sintered Bronze, M6 (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Click to expand...

This is what I'm running on my rig not for interference issues but because Jziggy was so generous enough to send me an extra one he had for free.

Works great! Thanks again.
 
thezentree said:
If you're wiping a normal zerk off the driveshaft, the head of that will probably get removed as well.

I'd be really interested to be proven wrong though.
Click to expand...

It broke off because I bent a Passenger Rear lower arm, and it was causing major interference with the fuel tank.

It doesn't hit on normal wheeling, only when the arm got bent. I trimmed enough of the skid plate to stop that from happening.
 
shadow247 said:
It broke off because I bent a Passenger Rear lower arm, and it was causing major interference with the fuel tank.

It doesn't hit on normal wheeling, only when the arm got bent. I trimmed enough of the skid plate to stop that from happening.
Click to expand...

Gotcha, I've still got enough (mangled) skid that it takes paint off the driveshaft when it's flexed out.
 
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