Replacing Front Pinion Seal

[401Jeeper]

How big of a PITA is it on a 91? I picked this one up a few months ago for my kids and it's been one thing after another. :ybrick: I just now figured out why the front diff was empty. I filled it up and the gear oil is literally running out of the pinion seal.

So it looks like I'll be replacing it in the snow tomorrow...just wondering how long it'll take...special tools, etc. Thanks.

 

[401Jeeper]

Thanks for all the help guys. Don't tell me no one's ever done this. :flamethrwoer2:

 

[Getsum]

How big of a PITA is it on a 91? I picked this one up a few months ago for my kids and it's been one thing after another. :ybrick: I just now figured out why the front diff was empty. I filled it up and the gear oil is literally running out of the pinion seal.

So it looks like I'll be replacing it in the snow tomorrow...just wondering how long it'll take...special tools, etc. Thanks.

I did a search for you over at Yotatech and came up with the following link you should take a look at (use advance search, titles only, with "front pinion seal")

YotaTech Forums

You have heard the old saying about not biting the hand that feeds you...right?

 

[s2kpuddydad]

I'm not sure if they use a solid pinion spacer on the front diff, if they do, it is pretty easy to do the seal change.

If they use a crush type pinion spacer then, you must be very careful not to over torque the pinion nut.

If a crush sleeve distance piece is used then this DIY I put together for the Honda S2000 guys will help you to do the job. Look in your service manual for torque specs for the front diff then use this DIY to do the job.

Good luck

You need a torque wrench that reads to 150 foot pounds at a minimum, something to hold the flange from turning why you are tightening down a NEW pinion nut.

Before removing the old flange check the turning torque with a inch pound torque wrench or by feel. If it feels loose (no resistance) take note to that
With the rear standing on end, Remove the old flange, replace with the new flange that has bearing grease on the oil seal surface and spline.

Install the pinion washer and NEW pinion nut, hold the flange in place and torque down to 60 foot pounds.
Turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing.

Hold the flange in place once again and torque down to 80 foot pounds.
Once again, turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing.

Hold the flange in place once again and torque down to 95 foot pounds.
Once again, turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing.

At this time check the turning torque on the flange with an inch pound torque wrench or by hand.
The flange should turn with a bit of resistance but, turn smooth. Take note to if it feels the same as it did with the old flange in place…..
If it turns very easy (no resistance) Hold the flange in place once again and torque down to 100 foot pounds.
Once again, turn the flange by hand several times to seat the bearing. The flange should turn with a bit of resistance but, turn smooth.

You can keep increasing the amount of torque applied to the NEW nut at 5 foot pound increments until you reach a proper turning torque feel.
If you exceed the proper turning torque or over tighten (lock up) the flange you will have to disassemble the rear and replace the distance piece (crush sleeve) with a new one.

 

[401Jeeper]

You have heard the old saying about not biting the hand that feeds you...right?

I have. Over 50 views on my two posts and not one reply on either one. Not even "I don't know, try PM'ing this person."

On my Jeep board, among others, there would have been tons of replies, some with help, some with condolances. Just getting frustrating with a broke truck in the street, you know?

Kind of a moot point now. I undertook it Sunday and found the diff empty and the bearings trashed. I pulled one from a 95 in the local junkyard today and will be swapping this weekend. I don't know who posted the site with the gearing code translator but it was a Godsend.

 

[Getsum]

I have. Over 50 views on my two posts and not one reply on either one. Not even "I don't know, try PM'ing this person."

On my Jeep board, among others, there would have been tons of replies, some with help, some with condolances. Just getting frustrating with a broke truck in the street, you know?

Kind of a moot point now. I undertook it Sunday and found the diff empty and the bearings trashed. I pulled one from a 95 in the local junkyard today and will be swapping this weekend. I don't know who posted the site with the gearing code translator but it was a Godsend.

Yes, I do understand, this site does not have as much traffic as Yotatech does but it does offer a different view on things. If I need immediate help I look on Yotatech as they have a pretty expansive database on our trucks.

 

[s2kpuddydad]

There are not that many tech people on the first/secnd gen forum. The ones that do pop in from time to time are very good and helpful.

I do not go to any other Toyota forums, just this one, I already spend to much time on this box as it is, that is what my wife says:crybaby:

I build diffs to an art and am at the top of my game. If you need any other questions answerd you can post or PM, Email. I am also available by phone.

Googl PuddyMod to see my work

 

[401Jeeper]

Thanks man, you rock. I will contact you if I need any other diff questions answered. I found out yesterday that you can in fact R/R the front diff on a 91 T4R in the driveway, on a nose-up angle, without pulling the CV shafts completely out, with a motorcycle jack. And it really is only 3 bolts holding it in!

Pinion bearing problem solved. Again, thanks.