Suggestions for partial rebuild

[daprotege5]

So a little backstory on the motor
short block has 31k, i got the heads redone at a known local machine shop
originally they could't take the timing sprockets said he was scared he was gonna snap it with the amount of pressure he was using trying to take them off so those didn't get replaced, everything else from tensioners, sensors, orings, chain, etc was replaced with new stuff
anyway on to the issue. i put a engine tech oil pump in it, was now like 4 yrs ago, prior my serpentine belt snapped, wrapped around the main pulley and took out the front seal, i pulled the pulley cleaned everything up and replaced the seal. everything fine, until i was coming home one day and oil indicator flashed, took the oil pan out and it had accumulated up all the stuff from the belt breaking in the oil strainer, this was all at like year 1 of the build. fix all of that and now on year 4, oil indicator is randomly flashing so i'm thinking that cheapo pump is failing.

my plan is to order the aisin timing cover that has the both pumps and a new cover because i needed a new cover anyway. but my question is with all the info i provided, since i'm literally breaking everything down...
should i swap in a fresh set of head gaskets since i had that one overheat with the belt breakage????

 

[AuSeeker]

So a little backstory on the motor
short block has 31k, i got the heads redone at a known local machine shop
originally they could't take the timing sprockets said he was scared he was gonna snap it with the amount of pressure he was using trying to take them off so those didn't get replaced, everything else from tensioners, sensors, orings, chain, etc was replaced with new stuff
anyway on to the issue. i put a engine tech oil pump in it, was now like 4 yrs ago, prior my serpentine belt snapped, wrapped around the main pulley and took out the front seal, i pulled the pulley cleaned everything up and replaced the seal. everything fine, until i was coming home one day and oil indicator flashed, took the oil pan out and it had accumulated up all the stuff from the belt breaking in the oil strainer, this was all at like year 1 of the build. fix all of that and now on year 4, oil indicator is randomly flashing so i'm thinking that cheapo pump is failing.

my plan is to order the aisin timing cover that has the both pumps and a new cover because i needed a new cover anyway. but my question is with all the info i provided, since i'm literally breaking everything down...
should i swap in a fresh set of head gaskets since i had that one overheat with the belt breakage????

If you're asking the head gasket question...you already know the answer you would give, so you need to do you.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I would check the pickup again to see if it clogged back up. I had a similar issue with clogging plus a sticking relief valve but mine was because the former owner didn't think oil changes were needed. As soon as the oil came up to temp the pressure would start dropping to zero, I installed a gauge so I could watch it. Shut the truck off and restart, the pressure would jump right up then start dropping again. The engine was full of sludgy deposits. I had to run an engine cleaner through it a couple times plus clean that screen after but this eventually cleared up and the relief valve stopped sticking open.

 

[daprotege5]

I would check the pickup again to see if it clogged back up. I had a similar issue with clogging plus a sticking relief valve but mine was because the former owner didn't think oil changes were needed. As soon as the oil came up to temp the pressure would start dropping to zero, I installed a gauge so I could watch it. Shut the truck off and restart, the pressure would jump right up then start dropping again. The engine was full of sludgy deposits. I had to run an engine cleaner through it a couple times plus clean that screen after but this eventually cleared up and the relief valve stopped sticking open.

i did open it back up, was clean as whistle. i definitely change my oil regularly. i already ordered the aisian timing cover, comes with the oil and water pumps installed.

 

[daprotege5]

this bad boy came in fairly quickly. oil pump and water pump included.

going to order the toyota oem head gaskets part#11115-31031 & 11116-31011
while I'm in there and swap them out since i had a little overheat issue previously just to be precautious

also that double coolant pipe that goes from one side of the motor to the other, can someone help me find a part# i couldn't find it.

do you think i should worry about replacing the orings again, the motor literally has about 31k miles on it and every oring was new. not really in a rush to get it done i want to make sure i seal everything right and put everything back on correctly.

any special way to swap out the cam sprockets, i have brand new ones and i have an Milwaukee m18 impact now i didn't have before as they were too tight

all those timing components were brand new as well. so i'm kinda of going with the make sure everything looks good and in place before closing it up, cause we all know that timing cover is a PITA.

 

[daprotege5]

anyone see any issue with me reusing all the orings, engine has around 30k miles????

oem or cosmetic head gasketsi???? anything i'm missing to replace while i'm in there. every sensor was already replaced when i did the initial job

 

[Runnin on E]

do you think i should worry about replacing the orings again,

any special way to swap out the cam sprockets, i have brand new ones and i have an Milwaukee m18 impact now i didn't have before as they were too tight
.

You can inspect the orings for any defect. They should be round in profile and not flat at all. Remove them to inspect if you have to and also use a magnifier for nicks or cuts.

The factory service manual does not say anything special for removing the cam sprockets. If the bolts were left hand thread it would state that and also if a form of lock tite was used it would state to heat the bolt up to break that bond (slightly with a propane torch) BUT the FSM does not say either. The FSM does show using a back up wrench on the cam shaft. The FSM can be down loaded if you search for it here.

 

[zguy1]

I personally would replace any o-rings behind the timing cover even if they were replaced recently. I am not saying you can't use them, but removing and installing the timing cover is quite painful in opinion. Btw, my SM shows the seals as non reusable.

As far as the head gaskets go, just go OEM. I didn't see that you said the heads were machined so not sure why you would use anything else.

 

[daprotege5]

I personally would replace any o-rings behind the timing cover even if they were replaced recently. I am not saying you can't use them, but removing and installing the timing cover is quite painful in opinion. Btw, my SM shows the seals as non reusable.

As far as the head gaskets go, just go OEM. I didn't see that you said the heads were machined so not sure why you would use anything else.

i had them machined the heads when i did the original build of the engine so about 30k miles have been put on them.

the cover came with the oil pump and water pump installed already, the only other oring i remember is the oil pump one that goes on the bottom of the timing cover, i'm replacing that one though.

i agree the timing cover is a pita, mainly lining up the oil pump while having the fipg on there is the hard part. i'm pretty sure i removed the bottom two studs to make it easier in the cover, i can't remember but will definitely find out soon again.

 

[zguy1]

i had them machined the heads when i did the original build of the engine so about 30k miles have been put on them.

the cover came with the oil pump and water pump installed already, the only other oring i remember is the oil pump one that goes on the bottom of the timing cover, i'm replacing that one though.

i agree the timing cover is a pita, mainly lining up the oil pump while having the fipg on there is the hard part. i'm pretty sure i removed the bottom two studs to make it easier in the cover, i can't remember but will definitely find out soon again.

There is one seal on the LH (driver's side) head. That is a non usable part per the SM. I believe that is the oil feed port and I would replace that. If you didn't touch the oil pump or water pump then I suppose there is no reason to change those. I didn't even remove my oil pump from my cover when I did my head gaskets so I never changed any seals in there. My water pump was replaced so that gasket was changed.

Btw, I removed the lower two studs when test fitting the cover and it did not make a difference to me so I reinstalled them before the final install.

 

[daprotege5]

is this the correct part#9672224030 for the o-ring that goes on the bottom of the timing cover, which is also the oil pump.

 

[zguy1]

is this the correct part#9672224030 for the o-ring that goes on the bottom of the timing cover, which is also the oil pump.

Not sure. I got mine as part of the valve grind gasket kit. I know you can check online, but I would call your local dealer to confirm. My local parts guy will share diagrams and part numbers so you can be sure you are getting the right part.

 

[daprotege5]

i hate the way the oem searches have gotten, you used to be able to click on diagrams and it would pull up part#'s so easily, now its such a PITA