replacing lower ball joint?

[Will_4R]

Has anyone here replaced a lower ball joint without swapping out the entire LCA? Toyota tells me it can't be done, the manual doesn't show the ball joint as a seperate part either.

I do however see that Moog sells lower ball joint they say is for the 2003 4Runner, but I wonder how easy it is to change, and if going aftermarket like that is the right thing to do just to save money?

 

[pearlj10]

Looks like you can replace the "lower balljoint attachment" which contains the balljoint. From the looks of the new ball joint (on Rock Autos website) it looks like a simple nut and cotter pin assembly - which should be easy enough. Getting the lower balljoint attachment on and off is no big deal - just be sure to use locktight on the two bolts/nuts that hold it on and torque to spec. Directions from the service manual (if you'd like I can email the file to you with pictures, it's too large to send on this website):

26-22 FRONT SUSPENSION - FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1
LH
Author
: Date
: 1798
2003 4RUNNER REPAIR MANUAL (RM1001U)
FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1 LH
OVERHAUL
HINT:
COMPONENTS: See page 26-3
1. REMOVE FRONT DISC WHEEL
2. INSPECT FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB- ASSY
LOWER NO.1 LH
(a) Install the hub nuts to the disc.
(b) Using a dial indicator, check the lower ball joint for excessive
play when you push the hub nuts up and down with
a force of 294 N (30 kgf, 66 lbf).
Maximum: 0.5 mm (0.020 in.)
HINT:
If it is not within the specification, replace the lower arm.
3. SEPARATE FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER WITH COIL
SPRING
(a) Remove the bolt, nut and washer.
(b) Separate the front shock absorber with coil spring from
the suspension lower arm.
4. REMOVE FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB- ASSY
LOWER NO.1 LH
(a) Remove the 2 bolts, and separate the front lower ball joint
attachment LH from the front axle.
(b) Place matchmarks on the camber adjust cam No.2 and
toe adjust cam sub-assy.
(c) Remove the nut, camber adjust cam No.2, camber adjust
cam assy, bolt, toe adjust cam sub-assy, toe adjust plate
No.2 and front suspension arm sub-assy lower No.1 LH.
G20416
SST
G20164
G20412
SST
SST
G20164
G20413
SST
SST
FRONT SUSPENSION - FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1
LH
26-23
Author
: Date
: 1799
2003 4RUNNER REPAIR MANUAL (RM1001U)
(d) Remove the cotter pin and the nut.
(e) Using SST, remove the front lower ball joint attachment
LH.
SST 09628-0001 1
5. REMOVE FRONT LOWER ARM BUSH NO.1 LH
(a) Using a hammer and a chisel, raise the flange of the bushing
diagonally as shown in the illustration.
(b) Using SST and a press, remove the lower arm bush No.1
LH.
SST 09632- 36010, 09950- 00020, 09950- 60010
(09951-00400)
6. REMOVE FRONT LOWER ARM BUSH NO.2 LH
(a) Using a hammer and a chisel, raise the flange of the bushing
diagonally as shown in the illustration.
(b) Using SST and a press, remove the lower arm bush No.2
LH.
SST 09632- 36010, 09950- 00020, 09950- 60010
(09951-00400)
G21680
G20166
SST
SST
Bush Positioning Protrusion
G20165
SST
Bush Positioning Protrusion
26-24 FRONT SUSPENSION - FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1
LH
Author
: Date
: 1800
2003 4RUNNER REPAIR MANUAL (RM1001U)
7. INSPECT FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB- ASSY
LOWER NO.1 LH
(a) As shown in the illustration, flip the ball joint stud back and
forth 5 times, before installing the nut.
(b) Using a troque wrench, turn the nut continuously at a rate
of 2 - 4 seconds per 1 turn and take the torque reading
on the 5th turn.
Turning torque: 3.0 NVm (31 kgfVcm, 27 in.Vlbf) or less
(c) Check for any cracks and grease leaks on the ball joint
dust cover.
8. INSTALL FRONT LOWER ARM BUSH NO.2 LH
(a) Using SST and a press, install a new lower arm bush No.2
LH.
SST 09710- 26010 (09710- 05081), 09950- 60020
(09951-00890)
NOTICE:
Press the lower arm bush No.2 in the lower arm at the bush
positioning protrusions become perpendicular to the lower
arm as shown in the illustration.
9. INSTALL FRONT LOWER ARM BUSH NO.1 LH
(a) Using SST and a press, install a new lower arm bush No.1
LH.
SST 09223-00010, 09612-30012
NOTICE:
Press the lower arm bush No.1 in the lower arm at the bush
positioning protrusions become parallel with the lower
arm as shown in the illustration.
G20160
Matchmarks
G20159
C99159
G20160
FRONT SUSPENSION - FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1
LH
26-25
Author
: Date
: 1801
2003 4RUNNER REPAIR MANUAL (RM1001U)
10. TEMPORARILY TIGHTEN FRONT SUSPENSION ARM
SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1 LH
(a) Align the matchmarks on the camber adjust cam No.2 and
toe adjust cam sub-assy, temporarily tighten the bolt and
the nut.
(b) Install the front lower ball joint attachment LH, a new nut
and a new cotter pin.
Torque: 140 NVm (1430 kgfVcm, 103 ftVlbf)
(c) Install the front lower ball joint attachment LH with the 2
bolts.
Torque: 225 NVm (2,290 kgfVcm, 166 ftVlbf)
11. TEMPORARILY TIGHTEN FRONT SHOCK
ABSORBER WITH COIL SPRING
(a) Install the front shock absorber with coil spring, the bolt
and the washer, and temporarily tighten the nut.
12. INSTALL FRONT DISC WHEEL
Torque: 112 NVm (1,140 kgfVcm, 83 ftVlbf)
13. STABILIZE SUSPENSION (See page 26-12 )
14. FULLY TIGHTEN FRONT SUSPENSION ARM
SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1 LH
(a) Fully tighten the bolt and the nut.
Torque: 135 NVm (1,380 kgfVcm, 100 ftVlbf)
C99159
26-26 FRONT SUSPENSION - FRONT SUSPENSION ARM SUB-ASSY LOWER NO.1
LH
Author
: Date
: 1802
2003 4RUNNER REPAIR MANUAL (RM1001U)
15. FULLY TIGHTEN FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER WITH
COIL SPRING
(a) Fully tighten the nut.
Torque: 135 NVm (1,380 kgfVcm, 100 ftVlbf)
16. INSPECT AND ADJUST FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT (See page 26-7 )

 

[Will_4R]

Thanks Pearlj10. I found that file in my disorganized folder of FSM PDFs. It is hard to tell if the actual joint is removable. It must since I see aftermarket ball joints for sale, but from looking ath te Toyota diagrams it looks like the joint itself is attatched to the LCA and doesn't come off with the lower ball joint attachment. I am goign to try talking to the dealer again. Apparently, contrary to waht they told me, the boot can be replaced, and that might be enough to solve my problem.

 

[Justinlhc]

Thanks Pearlj10. I found that file in my disorganized folder of FSM PDFs. It is hard to tell if the actual joint is removable. It must since I see aftermarket ball joints for sale, but from looking ath te Toyota diagrams it looks like the joint itself is attatched to the LCA and doesn't come off with the lower ball joint attachment. I am goign to try talking to the dealer again. Apparently, contrary to waht they told me, the boot can be replaced, and that might be enough to solve my problem.

Is the boot torn and that's why you want to replace it? They will last for quite a quite a while with a torn boot, although fixing the boot will obviously be your best best(assuming you can).

 

[Will_4R]

Is the boot torn and that's why you want to replace it? They will last for quite a quite a while with a torn boot, although fixing the boot will obviously be your best best(assuming you can).

Boot looks fine, and the dealer inspected it and said it looked fine, and that the joint seemd fine too, but it is making a loud offensive noise, so obviously something is wrong. Hopeful a re-greasing will solve the problem, and the boot has to be removed and replaced to re-grease. Besides, considering the noise, I assume there must be some damage to boot and that grease got out and foreign material got in

 

[Justinlhc]

Boot looks fine, and the dealer inspected it and said it looked fine, and that the joint seemd fine too, but it is making a loud offensive noise, so obviously something is wrong. Hopeful a re-greasing will solve the problem, and the boot has to be removed and replaced to re-grease. Besides, considering the noise, I assume there must be some damage to boot and that grease got out and foreign material got in

If it leaked there should be evidence of that. That stuff doesn't wash away easily. When does it make the noise? Constant? I would think unless it's completely dry that adding more grease isn't going to help much and if it is what's making the noise it's probably too late for a greasing anyways. Worth a shot I guess. :shrug:

 

[Will_4R]

If it leaked there should be evidence of that. That stuff doesn't wash away easily. When does it make the noise? Constant? I would think unless it's completely dry that adding more grease isn't going to help much and if it is what's making the noise it's probably too late for a greasing anyways. Worth a shot I guess. :shrug:

It makes a noise any time the suspension cycles, and when turning hte steering wheel, even slightly in any direction for any position, starionary or while driving.

 

[galactic_04]

have you jacked that corner up and messed with the wheel/joint and seen if you have play in the suspension on that corner? If it's not the ball joint, it could be the upper strut making noises. Either way, something will need replaced. I wouldn't play when it comes to balljoints, I'd replace the a arm on my truck for it.

 

[Will_4R]

have you jacked that corner up and messed with the wheel/joint and seen if you have play in the suspension on that corner? If it's not the ball joint, it could be the upper strut making noises. Either way, something will need replaced. I wouldn't play when it comes to balljoints, I'd replace the a arm on my truck for it.

I haven't done anything, just going on what the dealer told me. I wouldn't really be sure what to look for. Is there any reason to replace the entire arm instead of just the joint, or the boot? Presumably the joint can be properly inspected for damage when the boot is removed.

 

[Will_4R]

I was just in the garage playing with it, and had my wife move the steering wheel while I looked for the source of the sound. I don't think it is the ball joint. It sounds like it is coming from the inboard end of the tie rod. Also, the sound, which a few days ago was loud and consistant, is now getting quieter and more intermittant. I hear it more while turning the wheels to the right than to the left, and it seems to come and go throughout the cycle. Also, it used make the noise when bouncing up and down on the front bumper, which I can't get it to do anymore. Although I did heard it today while out driving both turning and going over bumps. I can't find any grease seaping out of the ball joint, but it is hard to tell. The thing is covered in mud, and grease from my just repaired leaking CV.

 

[momo.75]

I know this is an old thread but was curious if it had been your ball joint. The dealership said both mine needed to be replaced but I had to replace the LCA as well......for $2000. I have found some other threads where guys had just replaced the ball joint with a Moog ball joint and had zero issues.

If anybody else has done this please chime in. Thanks

 

[Will_4R]

I know this is an old thread but was curious if it had been your ball joint. The dealership said both mine needed to be replaced but I had to replace the LCA as well......for $2000. I have found some other threads where guys had just replaced the ball joint with a Moog ball joint and had zero issues.

If anybody else has done this please chime in. Thanks

Ya, in the end it was the lower ball joint. I ended up having to have the lower cam bolts replaced when they were too seized to do an alignment. With the lower control arms removed it was easy to feel the free play in the joint, which the other side didn't have. At that point I had that point I had just the lower ball joint replaced with a Moog. The shop pressed it out and pressed in the new one. Labour was combined since they had taken it all apart for the cam bolts, and the ball joint itself was like $50 or something. It has been 40K miles, including lots of offroad, - no issues so far.

 

[momo.75]

Thanks man. I am hoping a friend of mine will let me use his lift/tools/heated garage so I can do it. If not I will just pay another shop to do it. Toyota can KISS MY A$$! $2000 is absolutely absurd!

 

[Geologist]

Is it possible to replace the lower ball joint boot without replacing the ball joint? I discovered a torn boot (~1/2 inch) on the passenger side while installing 5100s and FJ coils over the weekend. I'm not sure how long it's been like that but there's still grease in the joint. Is it bad to drive a few hundred miles before fixing the boot? I pumped some fresh grease in there for now. Thanks in advance

 

[Will_4R]

Is it possible to replace the lower ball joint boot without replacing the ball joint? I discovered a torn boot (~1/2 inch) on the passenger side while installing 5100s and FJ coils over the weekend. I'm not sure how long it's been like that but there's still grease in the joint. Is it bad to drive a few hundred miles before fixing the boot? I pumped some fresh grease in there for now. Thanks in advance

Yes: part numbers 43345D (RH) and 43345E (LH)