Replacing rear bearing

gapboi210

New member
I pulled out my passenger side rear axle. That bearing looks like it is going to be a b1tch to remove. So, I am guessing that the best thing to do is just Take the whole thing to a local bearing and gear company here in town and let them remove the old bearing and install the new one.

The dealer said that I need the following:
1 bearing $58.90
2 retainers $16.90 ea.
1 ABS Rotor $48.76

Any tips or advice is appreciated!
 
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Here is the inner seal removed.

inner_seal_removed.jpg

How pretty.

On jackstands:

4runner_jack_stands.jpg


This was the best write-up I found, but I read them all. This is specifically for models with ABS, which makes a little difference, well, it's just a little trickier to get the inner seal out on models with abs.

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/dcrim1_oilseal/dcrim1_oilseal.htm

It wasn't bad at all. I took my time and had a friend help me pull the axel out. I wanted to make sure I kept it real steady when pulling it out.

All the time as spent on cleaning up all the oil soaked stuff, wheel, drums, etc.

Some other tips that worked great.

Make a note of these:

1) "I did find out if you put the new axle seal in the freezer for about 10 minutes, it shrinks just enough to easly slide back in the place of the old one. The seals are very hard to fit back in if you dont do this and they have to go in perfect or you might damage it."
by Jataga

2) "You'll need to bleed the wheel cylinder on that side. That's probably my least favorite part of the job.

You can try gravity bleeding it by just leaving the bleeder screw open and draining into a cup while keeping an eye on the master cyl. to make sure it doesn't run dry. It doesn't drain very fast, but keep an eye on it.
Gravity bleeding usually works, but if not you can have your friend step on the brake pedal an hold it, while you crack open the bleeder to let the pressure out, then close the bleeder, and have your friend let back off the brake. A few cycles of that after gravity bleeding should do the trick.

Don't let the master cylinder run dry and don't let your buddy let off the brake while you have the bleeder open. Either one will introduce more air into the system instead of get it out.
If you're going to be working on your (or a buddies) truck and bleeding/flushing brakes, buy a motive products power bleeder. Its worth it."

by Erik

3) Buy some rubber vacuum caps from Advance auto to plug your brake line after you disconnect it.
7/32in. part # 47392, about $2.

5041040.jpg


I just had a a friend bleed it at the back when I stepped on the brake pedal. This whole process for the bleeding took 1 min exact, very easy with two people.
 
gapboi210 said:
I pulled out my passenger side rear axle. That bearing looks like it is going to be a b1tch to remove. So, I am guessing that the best thing to do is just Take the whole thing to a local bearing and gear company here in town and let them remove the old bearing and install the new one.

The dealer said that I need the following:
1 bearing $58.90
2 retainers $16.90 ea.
1 ABS Rotor $48.76

Any tips or advice is appreciated!

as far as tips, sounds just like when i did it. You definitely need to take it to a shop with a press and is nice enough to do bench work. my hardest part was loosening the slack adjuster.
by the way, where are you taking it? i couldn't find a shop with a press that was willing to do it the day i had mine apart so i just replaced the seal. I could not afford down time. I figure when my bearings start howling i'll take it to universal.
 
I am going to try taking it to Nogalitos Gear Co. off of New Larefo Highway. I haven't called them yet though. I was going to try it at my friends shop but they said with they way it is setup I am better off letting them do it.
 

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