Replacing steering rack. What else?

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I've heard Safari LTD or OEM are the racks of choice. I've also seen some folks have good luck with AAL racks.

You'll want to replace your steering bushings, weld your slip joint shaft on column, replace inner and outer tie rods (if your new rack doesn't come with inners already), and lower ball joints. Make sure to set rack guide per FSM. Google is your friend to find write-ups for all the above.
 
I would recommend getting this rack.

AAE Part # 3273N New Rack and Pinion Complete Unit from rock auto.

or the Safari Ltd.

The other issue that you may run into is the high pressure line. There have been several people including myself that have not been able to get the fitting to unscrew from the rack. It is extremely difficult to remove. I would recommend having a spare on hand just in case you cannot get it to break free. You can always return it if you do not wind up needing it.

Good luck. just did this at the begging of the year and it was one of the harder things i tackled on my truck.
 
rockyMTNvagabond said:
I would recommend getting this rack.

AAE Part # 3273N New Rack and Pinion Complete Unit from rock auto.

or the Safari Ltd.

The other issue that you may run into is the high pressure line. There have been several people including myself that have not been able to get the fitting to unscrew from the rack. It is extremely difficult to remove. I would recommend having a spare on hand just in case you cannot get it to break free. You can always return it if you do not wind up needing it.

Good luck. just did this at the begging of the year and it was one of the harder things i tackled on my truck.
Click to expand...
A propane torch is a cheap way to ease that fitting off.
 
Not that it is an easy task, but replacing control arm bushings requires removing the steering rack.. might as well while its out.

Energy suspension# 8.3115G
 
absalom said:
A propane torch is a cheap way to ease that fitting off.
Click to expand...

I tried everything in the book on mine. Heat Propane Torch. Penetrating Oils PB Blaster and ATF fluid mixed with acetone. Heat followed by an ice bath, vibration etc. I used only crows feet wrenches on it and still could not get it off. It may not wind up being a problem but I had plenty of time and spent two days just on that one fitting soaking it and trying different methods to break it loose. Again it may not be an issue for everyone but worth noting. If you do not have time for your rig to be down you may want to consider have a spare high pressure line just in case it has been noted as the hardest part of the job in several other threads.

An Oxy/Ace torch is the only thing i did not try. Propane torches are not enough to get the fitting glowing hot trust me i know.
 
I had to use a 4ft cheater on a crow's foot once, not fun, but worked. Not on the rack though.

Oxy/a sounds like the only alternative left, or a good long soaking with Kroil, though the acetone/ATF usually works just as well.
 
4-Ripcord said:
Not that it is an easy task, but replacing control arm bushings requires removing the steering rack.. might as well while its out.

Energy suspension# 8.3115G
Click to expand...

ripcord, what part number is that for? im planning on doing new toyota oem front LCA next week and learned the steering rack need to come out, is it smart to replace all bushing and the rack guide while im in there?
 
macshemi57 said:
ripcord, what part number is that for? im planning on doing new toyota oem front LCA next week and learned the steering rack need to come out, is it smart to replace all bushing and the rack guide while im in there?
Click to expand...

that is for control arm bushings. Go to energy suspension website and search for it.
 
I just replaced mine a month ago with one from this site below
1999*Toyota*4 Runner*Power Steering Rack from Carsteering

I bought the new one, 36 month warranty. So far it has been fine. Another member on here complained about his leaking at the boots. If I could do over I would do the Safari rack just for the piece of mind.

I would replace the OTREs while your under there and bushings if needed. Mine was pretty straight forward and came right out but I have no rust on my truck. Make sure to count the threads on the OTRE to get the alignment close for when you take it to get a professional alignment.

Also keep track of the steering wheel! I put mine on wrong the first time so the clock spring was under stress for a week until I could adjust it.

Once you do replace it just know that the steering will be very stiff, but after a month it will break in and feel more normal.

I used this thread
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/129512-1999-4runner-rack-pinion-replacement.html
And watched this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSFLIt05YBU

I think thats all i can remember from the install. Feel free to quote or tag me if you have questions.
 
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