Replacing Transfer case-any writeups?

C

c0mmon

New member
I have a leak from re-torquing my Tcase drain bolt (makes me slightly hate everything right now)

Anyway since JB Weld is nothing more than a cash grab and cannot stick loose leaf paper together are there any write ups on how to replace your tcase?
 
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c0mmon said:
I have a leak from re-torquing my Tcase drain bolt (makes me slightly hate everything right now)

Anyway since JB Weld is nothing more than a cash grab and cannot stick loose leaf paper together are there any write ups on how to replace your tcase?
Click to expand...

Honestly, it's one of the easiest things you can do.

If you have an automatic:

1) Take the center console out. (2) 10mm bolts on the bottom of the cubby, and (2) phillips head screws. Also, take the knob off the t-case shifter. it will either unscrew, or it will be held on by (1) SMALL philips head screw.

2) Take the (8{MAYBE 10}) 10mm bolts from around the shifter out, this will leave your shifter loose.

3) Get under the truck and disconnect the shift linkage from the shifter to the transmission. (1) 12mm nut.

4) Pull the shifter out. The shift boot for the t-case will also come out with the shifter.

5) Remove the (4) 10mm bolts on the t-case shifter. Pull the shifter through the floor board.

6) Drain the oil from the t-case.

7) Remove the (8) 12mm bolts from the t-case to t-case adapter.

8) Wiggle the t-case, and it will come right out.


Installation is the opposite of removal.

For a manual, you'll just need to take the shift bezel off, and you should be able to get to all this stuff.

If you need any help doing this, feel free to shoot me a PM and I can talk you thought it.
 
Thanks so much for your offer and as soon as it arrives I might take you up on your offer if needed. Appreciate the timely feedback.

Question: Limited Transfer case-understand the mechanism is different would this be an upgrade or harder work?

Question2: I can find a good deal on one with 120k and no transfer case motor. Is it easy enough to swap the motor from mine to the new one or I should stick to a more complete one?
 
Doc2012 said:
Honestly, it's one of the easiest things you can do.

If you have an automatic:

1) Take the center console out. (2) 10mm bolts on the bottom of the cubby, and (2) phillips head screws. Also, take the knob off the t-case shifter. it will either unscrew, or it will be held on by (1) SMALL philips head screw.

2) Take the (8{MAYBE 10}) 10mm bolts from around the shifter out, this will leave your shifter loose.

3) Get under the truck and disconnect the shift linkage from the shifter to the transmission. (1) 12mm nut.

4) Pull the shifter out. The shift boot for the t-case will also come out with the shifter.

5) Remove the (4) 10mm bolts on the t-case shifter. Pull the shifter through the floor board.

6) Drain the oil from the t-case.

7) Remove the (8) 12mm bolts from the t-case to t-case adapter.

8) Wiggle the t-case, and it will come right out.


Installation is the opposite of removal.

For a manual, you'll just need to take the shift bezel off, and you should be able to get to all this stuff.

If you need any help doing this, feel free to shoot me a PM and I can talk you thought it.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking you could do this blindfolded!
 
c0mmon said:
Thanks so much for your offer and as soon as it arrives I might take you up on your offer if needed. Appreciate the timely feedback.

Question: Limited Transfer case-understand the mechanism is different would this be an upgrade or harder work?

Limited Transfer cases are a PITA, IMHO. Electronics can fail. I swapped mine out for a mechanicial t-case, and while I don't have the 4WD lights, because I also did the manual hub swap and make the ADD a "full time locked", I can still tell when it's in 4WD.

Question2: I can find a good deal on one with 120k and no transfer case motor. Is it easy enough to swap the motor from mine to the new one or I should stick to a more complete one?

This will bolt right up to the t-case adapter. I swapped my Limited t-case out for a manual. Only difference is it doesn't have the Center Locking Differential.

Again, your lights on the dash are going to flash, because the CLD won't be hooked up, but there's no issue with it.

If that's something that's going to bother you, then you need to go with the Limited t-case.
Click to expand...


Answers are in red.

Forgot to add in there that you need to disconnect the plugs on the t-case, but that should go without saying.
 
Doc2012 said:
Answers are in red.

Forgot to add in there that you need to disconnect the plugs on the t-case, but that should go without saying.
Click to expand...

I have a SR5 currently -- so bolting on my existing motor should be easy as well and will not produce a check engine light most likely?(4runners for Dummies first edition purchaser<))
 
c0mmon said:
I have a SR5 currently -- so bolting on my existing motor should be easy as well and will not produce a check engine light most likely?(4runners for Dummies first edition purchaser<))
Click to expand...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the Limiteds came with the CLD, correct? Not the SR5?

I'm 99% sure that it's not going to have one. Could be wrong though.

And you don't want to change that motor. It's such a PITA. You have to take the t-case apart to do so.
 
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