Restoring the "Natural White" Paint on my 2006 4Runner

luke87gt

New member
Hi guys,

Although I consider the paint on my "natural white" 2006 4Runner to look pretty good, after 11yrs there are some parts that have become a little dull.

I'm hoping to bring out the life in the paint which from what I understand is single stage?

What do you guys recommend? I don't trust myself with a rotating power buffer so I will be using my hands.

I was planning on washing it, running the clay bar across the paint, and hitting any duller areas with rubbing compound. And lastly a good carnuba wax.

But I'm open to suggestions, particularly with this specific single stage color/paint.

Thanks!
 
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I suggest a professional detailer who knows how to do this. A buffer will give you the best results. I've done this myself without a buffer and while I can get my white 08 good enough, it can be done better with a buffer.

You need to wash the car with a good car wash. Two mitts, one for soap, one for rinse. Wash and dry the car. Only use quality microfiber towels to dry. Do not use bath towels, the threads are too coarse and will scratch the paint. Get a claybar kit such a Mequiar's and go to town. You need to get all the crude that's embedded in the paint out. Claybarring strips it down to the paint. If you don't what you are doing (and even you do know what you doing) you will get scratches in the paint. Wash and dry the car. Did I say to only use quality microfiber towels?

So now you've claybarred it and vehicle feels as smooth as a baby's butt. Get a good polishing agent and go to town. Rinse and dry the vehicle.

Critical step is to use a sealer. Synthetic is the best. Follow the manufacturer's instruction. It's a put on, take off while wet.

Now you are ready to wax the vehicle. Apply several coats.

A buffer is highly desireable and you will get better results.

That's a quick way to do it.

Read the forum with the link provided and you will get better results:

https://www.autopia.org/
 
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A DA + correct pad + compound will be your best friend.

Invest in a dual action polisher. Your hands, wrists, and forearms will thank you. They are more user friendly than rotary buffers. You can go high end with Rupes down to the cheap HF (get a better backing plate and pads) if you just want to try out the trade.
 
Others are using the word "compound," but be careful. Compound is more aggressive than polish and cuts through more of the surface (clear coat). Compound should only be used on areas that polish cannot correct. The step in the detailing process that takes the longest and produces the results that everyone craves (that deep, shiny wet look) is accomplished in the polishing stage, not the compounding or waxing stage.

In an oversimplified summary, the sequence of a proper paint detail is rinse, wash, rinse, dry, clay, compound (optional), polish, seal and/or wax.
 
I have the same paint and I used meguires DA kit. I got it on amazon with all the pads and liquids for $90. You will not burn through your paint. Even with the da buffer it took me about 20 hours to correct the paint you will he half a year trying to do it by hand.
 
I personally like the Porter Cable 7424xp ($119 on amazon). You don't need to use it every time but you do need to use it now. I prefer to hand polish because it's easier on the finish but sometimes you just need a polisher. Try meguiar's m205 ultra finishing polish on a fender. If it's not shiny enough, use meguiar's m105 and follow it with the m205. I say try the m205 first because it is less harsh and you may be happy with the results. Follow with your favorite wax. I like Klasse all in one because it lasts for 6 monthes and if your really anal about your finish you can put a carnuba wax on top. You will be very pleased with the results.
 
IronX or Trix by CarPro did wonders on my old white Honda. Single stage paint.

Then polish with your product of choice. I like Meguiars DA pads and compounds.
 
Ymmv

But im going to suggest paying someone to do it especially if you have discoloration between different panels. Chances are the discolored panels will require different techniques and materials to reduce or eliminate the overall discoloration.

Thing is the person you talk to will be up front with you , quote you a price and tell you what they can and maybe cant do due to the condition of the paint. But remember you can always get a 2nd opinion as well.

Its going to cost more but cost less than you having to redo or pay someone else to correct something and youll have recourse which never hurts either. YMMV:llama:
 
Thanks for all the input guys.

I'm going to give it a whirl (no pun) myself this weekend and can report back.

I got the Mequiars clay bar, polishing compound, applicator pads, and soft microfiber towels.

Luke
 
You can do it. I started this on my older cars and it's easy to pick up. Just take your time and don't be in a hurry and allow yourself time to learn. And of course you already know to do this work in the shade on a cool car.
 
Thanks for all the input guys.

I'm going to give it a whirl (no pun) myself this weekend and can report back.

I got the Mequiars clay bar, polishing compound, applicator pads, and soft microfiber towels.

Luke
Hopefully you got a good sealant or wax(you didn't mention that).
 
Earlier this year I did a solid wash followed by clay bar/compound/wax and seal all by hand. I couldn't believe the life it brought back to the car and when it cools down I'll be doing it again. My advice is to go simple and what you are comfortable with and if it's not good enough perhap take it to a pro


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
When I purchased my 2007 last year I knew it needed a little bit of work on the paint. I used Mothers Cleaner Wax because I knew it was a good place to start with minimal risk of damaging the paint. I applied it by hand with no power tools. The results were very impressive and I didn't do any additional work beyond that except to add spray Optimum Wax for sun protection. You could start with something like this first then make a decision on whether you need something more.
 
I have the same paint and I used meguires DA kit. I got it on amazon with all the pads and liquids for $90. You will not burn through your paint. Even with the da buffer it took me about 20 hours to correct the paint you will he half a year trying to do it by hand.

20 hours is extremely excessive even with a DA. Including clay, polish and wax, a 4runner should be done in 4-6 hours.
 
20 hours is extremely excessive even with a DA. Including clay, polish and wax, a 4runner should be done in 4-6 hours.
Isn't the meguiar's kit the little one you attach to a drill? It probably would take forever. That's why I always push the PC 7424. It's pretty idiot proof.
 
Hi guys,

I spent a good part of Sunday doing the 4 stage process on our 4Runner.

I started off with a wash, then claybar, then polish, and then wax. The entire process took about 6hrs using my hands. Rotary tooling would obviously have made the project go faster but I used what I had. And using your hands is more forgiving for us beginners.

I think the time really depends on whether you are focusing on any problematic areas or not. If you are focusing on any problematic areas, it can really increase the overall time.

I would say that it came out to 85-90% of what I would have expected if I dropped off the car with a professional detailer which is totally fine by me given that it’s a daily driver and the family hauler. Overall it looks great, but be warned, it is a very labor intensive project… lots of elbow grease.

Thanks again for everyone’s recommendations and assistance.
 

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