**Rickashay's OME vs. TRD Tundra/LC Review**


Other notes: :
**After a lot of seat time, I can honestly say the rear shocks ARE NOT bouncy. The valving is sufficient but I could see others preferring the Tokico's on a more regular basis. I LOVE the Bilsteins and I think the initial switch from the hard-as-hell OME to the Bilsteins made me unsure of the rear setup. I won't be changing out my Tundra rear Bilsteins until I go to Icon's or Walker Evans.


I have all of 2 days and about 60 miles on my tundra/LC 8 wrap lift and my ONLY complaint would be the rebound dampening on the rear. If I hit a bump or compression, the rear soaks it up just fine, but then shoots the back end up with little control. as the rear comes down again, the shock compression dampening can handle the work just fine again.

The fronts dampening is correct for both compression and rebound, it's just the rears rebound that feels off.
 
I have all of 2 days and about 60 miles on my tundra/LC 8 wrap lift and my ONLY complaint would be the rebound dampening on the rear. If I hit a bump or compression, the rear soaks it up just fine, but then shoots the back end up with little control. as the rear comes down again, the shock compression dampening can handle the work just fine again.

The fronts dampening is correct for both compression and rebound, it's just the rears rebound that feels off.

Could very well be that I'm entirely used to it now? I have no complaints and won't be changing mine out unless I do something custom back there.
 
I have all of 2 days and about 60 miles on my tundra/LC 8 wrap lift and my ONLY complaint would be the rebound dampening on the rear. If I hit a bump or compression, the rear soaks it up just fine, but then shoots the back end up with little control. as the rear comes down again, the shock compression dampening can handle the work just fine again.

The fronts dampening is correct for both compression and rebound, it's just the rears rebound that feels off.

You'd love the Tokico Trekmasters for the LC then. No overshoot at all. Probably a bit firmer on compression too.
 
Number sounds familiar.

Search it out here. There are a plenty of posts about them.

Even pulling a trailer or my hitch mountain bike carrier, the struts keep the load under control no problem. From the sounds of it they are quite a bit firmer than the Billy's.

Really depends what you want. These aren't like a caddy, but I find they are great. Would be ideal with bumpers and armour.

Check out Autoanything(dot)com. They might be cheaper there.

All I can say is tighten the piss out of the top grommets. Some have issue because they start to rattle and ovel out the mounting hole. You really have to crank down on the rubbers WITH thick washers or else they'll do the same to yours. Since I put a stack of thick washers on mine I haven't had an issue. Love them.

It should make sense how you install them, but make sure the washers go OVER the threaded shoulder so the nut bottoms out on the step/shaft, but the washers provided further compression on the rubber.
 
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First off, Rick, thanks for this thread. Its been a great help!

It seems from my week or so of searching and learning, that the TRD/LC lift is where I want to be. The only thing is, I'd like to raise the front up a little to take out SOME of the rake. I'm thinking some top plate spacers so I can maintain that second perch until I get my front bumper/armor. I should be okay with a diffdrop right?


That all said, I've been looking at forums/ebay/craigslist and cant seem to find any FJ80 Coils. I emailed cruiserparts.net, hopefully they have something for me.


My question is, does anyone know where I can find tundra isolators? It doesnt seem they're sold at wheelers anymore. Is there a problem with using the 4runner isolators?

Try ih8mud I almost bought mine there.
I Haven't decided in just getting the ss1.2 (1, 400 with shipping included)
Or do one step at a time ....Will I save money? Will it cost me more if something breaks.. because I didn't install something that I would if I bought the 1.2?
Like the adjustable panhard. The bump stops. The brake line adapter?

Thank you rickashay for the time and dedication put into this setup.
 
Try ih8mud I almost bought mine there.
I Haven't decided in just getting the ss1.2 (1, 400 with shipping included)
Or do one step at a time ....Will I save money? Will it cost me more if something breaks.. because I didn't install something that I would if I bought the 1.2?
Like the adjustable panhard. The bump stops. The brake line adapter?

Thank you rickashay for the time and dedication put into this setup.

I don't have bumps stops, nor do I have a rear brake line adapter or brake line itself.

No issues at all. I am not a huge off-roader, but I've had the rear tires dangling more than a few times with no issues.

I do have the Toytec panhard bar drop bracket.
 
I'm really not a fan of the adjustable panhard. Extended brakes lines are something I would recommend. I built my own E-brake bracket for $5 with some scrap metal. I can also build my own bumpstop spacers for pretty cheap or go with the Jimmy/Blazer ones that people are running. I definitely ended up cheaper sourcing the kit myself, but there is something to be said for getting it all easily in one-shot.
 
When searching for the front bilstein part number provided I ran across these shocks about 50% of the time BE5-6929-H1

What is the difference between the recommended H0 and the H1 part numbers??
 
When searching for the front bilstein part number provided I ran across these shocks about 50% of the time BE5-6929-H1

What is the difference between the recommended H0 and the H1 part numbers??

According to this thread, nothing.

Yeah so the H1 was a newer part number and now Bilstein has changed part numbers again.

Im looking at 24-188265 for the FRONT which replaced BE5-6929-H1/H0 and 24-100-144 for the REAR which replaced BE5-A014-H7/H5
 
So I sent downssouth a message about getting the rear bushings, and they sent me this back


Hello,

That rear shock takes a special bushing that is vulcanized in the shock
itself and we do not have any bushing that will fit in it's place. I
assume you are trying to fit it on the rear of a 4-Runner or something?
We get his questions about 3-4 times a week. You may be able to come up
with something but we have not found anything to fit. It is an odd size
straight bushing so your "standard" hourglass bushings do not fit in the
eyelet itself.

Thank you



What are people doing for this?
 
I contacted down south motorsports couple days ago and they told me that they didn't recommend the Tundra Bilstein strut swap. They said that putting those shocks on a 4R voids the warranty, and that the tundra shock is not designed for this vehicle. Should we be concerned about this?
Rickashay:
Your thread inspired my build. Although, not as elaborate and polished, I am getting lots of great ideas including the tundra/LC lift. Thanks.
BTW, I only want about 2" lift on my '99 T4R I'm currently at about 21.5" hub to well. I've been reading several lift threads and Rickashay mentioned his shocks are set on the 2nd perch, I believe. I'm figuring 1st perch may drop me to my desired ride height. Is me logic sound? I'm no Egbert.:confused: Is this mod the way to go?
 
So I sent downssouth a message about getting the rear bushings, and they sent me this back


Hello,

That rear shock takes a special bushing that is vulcanized in the shock
itself and we do not have any bushing that will fit in it's place. I
assume you are trying to fit it on the rear of a 4-Runner or something?
We get his questions about 3-4 times a week. You may be able to come up
with something but we have not found anything to fit. It is an odd size
straight bushing so your "standard" hourglass bushings do not fit in the
eyelet itself.

Thank you



What are people doing for this?

This is funny, considering they sold me some hourglass ones, and they worked flawlessly for the 1-1/2 years I ran this setup. Sorry guys, wish I could provide more info but... All I know is that I pressed the vulcanized bushings out with a press. Took 2 seconds.

I contacted down south motorsports couple days ago and they told me that they didn't recommend the Tundra Bilstein strut swap. They said that putting those shocks on a 4R voids the warranty, and that the tundra shock is not designed for this vehicle. Should we be concerned about this?
Rickashay:
Your thread inspired my build. Although, not as elaborate and polished, I am getting lots of great ideas including the tundra/LC lift. Thanks.
BTW, I only want about 2" lift on my '99 T4R I'm currently at about 21.5" hub to well. I've been reading several lift threads and Rickashay mentioned his shocks are set on the 2nd perch, I believe. I'm figuring 1st perch may drop me to my desired ride height. Is me logic sound? I'm no Egbert.:confused: Is this mod the way to go?

Thanks! I WAS running on the 2nd perch before I got my bumper/winch. If you want close to 2" of lift, without bumpers, I'd run the 2nd perch. I think the 1st notch would yield 1.25-1.5" of lift. But it depends where your starting point is ie. year of t4r.
 
Just curious I found a good deal on a set of 9004 OME shocks, is there specific valving for each vehicle or is a 9004 shock a 9004 shock period? I have a 2000 3rd gen an have 880 springs for the front and want a good set of shocks to go with them.
 
Thanks! I WAS running on the 2nd perch before I got my bumper/winch. If you want close to 2" of lift, without bumpers, I'd run the 2nd perch. I think the 1st notch would yield 1.25-1.5" of lift. But it depends where your starting point is ie. year of t4r.

I have 02 T4R, supposedly the lowest. I wonder where first perch/second perch would get me? I also wonder where 7 wraps would get me. Trying to stay in the 2-3" range, 2" best. Not trying to do diff drop and panhard drop just yet, but I will if I have to. I don't wheel, just light trails.
 
As far as the bushings go...I used these. Energy Suspension 9.8108

And I did it like this....

bfe920dcba7411e29a9d22000a1f979c_7.jpg



Good luck fellas. :bigok:
 
I have 02 T4R, supposedly the lowest. I wonder where first perch/second perch would get me? I also wonder where 7 wraps would get me. Trying to stay in the 2-3" range, 2" best. Not trying to do diff drop and panhard drop just yet, but I will if I have to. I don't wheel, just light trails.

if the 2"-3" range is referred to the 2002 4Runner stock height, then the lowest perch would be suitable because the tundra coils will give about 2" of lift.

Brand new 7-wrap LC coils will give you about 4.5"-5.5" inches lift from the 2002 stock height (it gives 3"-4" of lift on the 1996-1998 4Runners and 2"-3" on the 1999-2000 4Runners running the tall coils).
you'll get a very substantial rake.

<img id="ums_img_tooltip" class="UMSRatingIcon">
 
if the 2"-3" range is referred to the 2002 4Runner stock height, then the lowest perch would be suitable because the tundra coils will give about 2" of lift.

Brand new 7-wrap LC coils will give you about 4.5"-5.5" inches lift from the 2002 stock height (it gives 3"-4" of lift on the 1996-1998 4Runners and 2"-3" on the 1999-2000 4Runners running the tall coils).
you'll get a very substantial rake.

<img id="ums_img_tooltip" class="UMSRatingIcon">

Startiing to sound like I need 99 talls, or OME coils, if I just want 2-3". Was hoping for used oem coils to save money though. Fronr sounds like bilys will be ythe ticket either way, can I use them with stock on higher perch for lift?,
 
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