rky-n-sons build thread

[rkymtnman]

So where to start....

We have (2) 4runners - a '99 V6 4wd manual with elocker and 177kmi on the clock and a bent frame from a recent accident - was the kid's DD (aka: "the donor")
and a recently procured '98 V6 4wd manual with 220kmi on the clock and a seized motor (aka: "the recipient")

The '99 is clean...the '98 not so much but it has a lot of the "extras" the kid wanted to put on the '99 but never got the chance.

We'll be taking the 2 and making one good one and parting out the rest. This is the second time we have done this - the last was a 2000 Saab 9-3 Viggen. Talk about a fun car to source parts for.....

Anyway, we'll have the motor and tranny pulled from the donor this weekend. We are planning to do the water pump/t-stat/timing belt complete "kit" from HERE. Also going to throw a new clutch/slave at it because the original is still in there.

My questions will be many so I hope ya'll will bear with me a bit. I am a wireless network engineer by day but live for this stuff. We learn as we go and take our time to get it done right.

My first question is - while the motor is out and on a stand, what else? Valve Cover gaskets seem smart but what about the HG? Any reason to deal with it as a preventative strike? Figure we'll do the rear main as well.

Second - any concerns with the donor being a '99 and the recipient being a '98? I read a lot about wiring differences and suddenly got a sinking feeling...hopefully I didn't screw myself.

Last, we are planning to swap in the elocker from the donor since we have it. Any reason to do something different? (arb?) We are trying to build a bit of a trail rig that works as a DD so nothing crazy. Money is always an issue as this is 100% the kid's money. He has a job and my help but it is his coin. (He is 17)

Will get some pics posted up soon and thanks in advance for any and all advise.

 

[rkymtnman]

Engine will be out Thursday. Timing belt kit from Aircabinman arrives Friday.

Since the motor is out - what other preventative maintenance would be wise? I don't want to go crazy but I do want a solid motor that we won't have to worry about. I am a bit fanatic about leaks too....when they arise, I prefer to fix them.

It ran tip top before the minor accident. It has 172kmi on it and doesn't leak a drop of anything as near I can tell.

What else should we address?

 

[rkymtnman]

pics

This is were the engine is headed. Picked this '98 up off CL with a seized motor. Will use the AFE intake and Borla Exhaust from it...and that is about it. Motor/trans/transfer case will all be swapped from the '99 as will the eLocker and complete interior.

As it sits....
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gutted interior...
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[mountain mike]

You are over my skill level, but if you do not find the answers you are looking for here you might try over at Yotatech

 

[phattyduck]

You can go two (reasonable) ways with the wiring:

- Go ALL '99 wiring with EVERYTHING in the truck.

- Keep as much '98 wiring as possible and do the 'conversion' for the center console changes. This means using the '98 engine harness on the '99 motor

You have all the parts, so the choice is yours.

As for the motor itself... Don't do the head gaskets. But you may want to do cam and f/r crank seals along with the timing belt, water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, and valve cover gaskets, accessory belts, radiator, radiator hoses, lower ball joints (OEM!)... hmmm... what else. You get the idea. No reason to crack open the motor though.

-Charlie

 

[rkymtnman]

Interesting...and THANK YOU all for the feedback.

Is there that much difference between the '98 and '99 wiring? We disconnected the wiring harness from the ECU on the '99, pulled it back through the firewall and were planning to pull the motor with the wiring harness attached. We are going to use the center console from the '99.

The '98 has a sun roof and as far as I know, that is the only difference between the 2. Almost seems like we are better off with the '98 wiring and doing the conversion as you mentioned. As the interior is out, now would be the time to make these decisions. I am not afraid of wiring necessarily, but am a huge fan of simplicity!

You can go two (reasonable) ways with the wiring:

- Go ALL '99 wiring with EVERYTHING in the truck.

- Keep as much '98 wiring as possible and do the 'conversion' for the center console changes. This means using the '98 engine harness on the '99 motor

You have all the parts, so the choice is yours.

As for the motor itself... Don't do the head gaskets. But you may want to do cam and f/r crank seals along with the timing belt, water pump, idler pulleys, tensioner, and valve cover gaskets, accessory belts, radiator, radiator hoses, lower ball joints (OEM!)... hmmm... what else. You get the idea. No reason to crack open the motor though.

-Charlie

 

[phattyduck]

The main body wiring is very different between the '96-'98 trucks and the '99-'02 trucks.

On the later trucks, there is a multiplex communication bus between the rear hatch ECU (yes, there is a whole computer back there), main body relay block and gauge cluster that all require different wires/signals than the early trucks.

I used a '97 parts truck when I did the 4WD swap on my '99. There are even significant differences in the plugs between the dash harness and engine harness...

-Charlie

 

[rkymtnman]

Yikes....guess that means I will be using the '98 wiring and performing any mods for the center console and eLocker. I'd prefer to not have to tear the dash apart if I don't need to. Since I am really just dropping in a new engine, it would seem a bit more simplistic to keep the '98 harness in tact and make the "new" connections to the engine once it is installed.

The main body wiring is very different between the '96-'98 trucks and the '99-'02 trucks.

On the later trucks, there is a multiplex communication bus between the rear hatch ECU (yes, there is a whole computer back there), main body relay block and gauge cluster that all require different wires/signals than the early trucks.

I used a '97 parts truck when I did the 4WD swap on my '99. There are even significant differences in the plugs between the dash harness and engine harness...

-Charlie

 

[phattyduck]

Yikes....guess that means I will be using the '98 wiring and performing any mods for the center console and eLocker. I'd prefer to not have to tear the dash apart if I don't need to. Since I am really just dropping in a new engine, it would seem a bit more simplistic to keep the '98 harness in tact and make the "new" connections to the engine once it is installed.

While the engine is out (and you are doing valve cover gaskets), swap the '98 harness over to the '99 engine. Everything will work just fine that way.

For the interior swap, just search for the thread about doing a '99 console swap. I think it is just extending wires to move some switch locations (didn't read it closely... I already have a '99!).

-Charlie

 

[rkymtnman]

long list of parts

So the list of parts en route to the garage had gotten a bit long

Timing belt kit with thermostat, water pump, belt, pulleys, idlers, etc.,
Valve Cover Gasket "kit" with PCV, grommet, spark plug seals, air intake gaskets, etc.,
New Radiator
Rear Main seal
Front crank seal
Camshaft seals
couple tubes of FIPG

...all OEM parts. Ought to keep us busy for a day or so. Motor comes out Sunday, parts should all be here by Monday. Taking Tuesday off to get all these parts installed.

Just need a clutch kit and we should be ready to start putting it all back together. For the clutch kit - OEM or something from the local parts store? I am a big fan of OEM when it comes to seals and gaskets...learned that when working on my FJ-80. But the clutch?

EDIT...think I found my answer. Seems Aisin or Marlin Crawler are the preferred to "genuine OEM". For the extra few $$, I think we'll try the Marlin Crawler, along with a new flywheel, shifter seats and bushings from them as well.

 

[rkymtnman]

So I'm thinking I'd like to swap the entire drive line from my '99 in this '98. The '99 is a "known quantity" to us and has 50k fewer miles on it and I know it was never abused.

Any concerns? I figure I'll pull the drive shafts, then the transfer case, transmission and last, the engine. Seems like the logical order to proceed unless someone thinks otherwise. Also swapping the rear axle from the '99 so will take care of that as well.

I missing anything from a "logical order" standpoint?

 

[phattyduck]

Since they are both V6/4WD/manual, everything should work out well.

If one has a rear diff lock and the other doesn't, check gear ratios before swapping rear axle or front diff (use both from the same truck if you are unsure).

Order of operations isn't too critical. You can leave the trans and transfer case as one unit when pulling it if you have a good trans jack.

-Charlie

 

[dirteater4]

Engine will be out Thursday. Timing belt kit from Aircabinman arrives Friday.

Since the motor is out - what other preventative maintenance would be wise? I don't want to go crazy but I do want a solid motor that we won't have to worry about. I am a bit fanatic about leaks too....when they arise, I prefer to fix them.

It ran tip top before the minor accident. It has 172kmi on it and doesn't leak a drop of anything as near I can tell.

What else should we address?

Rear main seal is much easier to do out of the truck.

 

[rkymtnman]

Welllll...that was fun.

Motor, transmission and transfer case all out. Motor is on the stand and parts started arriving today. It was a fairly long day but we work slow and methodical. Toughest part of the job was those PITA bell housing bolts on the top of the transmission. They became infinitely easier when we realized we could remove the motor mounts and tilt the whole trans/transfer case/motor down in the back to access them Got easier after that.

Get lots of extensions.....lots of them.

Taking tomorrow to do some mountain biking up at Winter Park and will get started on the maintenance items on the motor next week.

The fun has officially begun.

 

[rkymtnman]

so....a potential snag?

We were crawling around under this '98 we are building. It has a 3" lift on it from the PO that I realized I knew nothing about. Before we put the motor in this thing, it seemed wise to make sure the suspension is/was up to snuff.

The lift is a rough country kit. Some quick research on these and I am concerned. This will primarily be a road queen but we want it to be trail ready and capable for some light trail running. No serious rock crawling.

Still...this RC lift has me concerned with it being a spacer lift type up front. Knowing the rear shocks are likely junk, and being most concerned about the front end, what if we removed the RC stuff and replaced with something like this >>TTEBCS - Toytec/Eibach Complete Front Coilovers - 3" Lift

That would buy us some time to deal with the rear. I think we'll probably address the ball joints prior to dropping the motor in as well since I have no idea what shape they are in...yet. I want this thing to be safe and this spacer lift has me concerned. Am I over reacting?

 

[phattyduck]

Suspension stuff doesn't get in the way of the suspension stuff. Spacer lifts stuck and all... but that shouldn't stop the motor swap from happening.

You can check the front lower ball joints with the right technique, and make sure they are OEM with a visual inspection. You'll be fine! Or, if you are really concerned, just replace the ball joints, then handle the rest of the suspension later.

-Charlie

 

[rkymtnman]

Suspension stuff doesn't get in the way of the suspension stuff. Spacer lifts stuck and all... but that shouldn't stop the motor swap from happening.

You can check the front lower ball joints with the right technique, and make sure they are OEM with a visual inspection. You'll be fine! Or, if you are really concerned, just replace the ball joints, then handle the rest of the suspension later.

-Charlie

Thanks.... I was more thinking in terms of "priority of dollars" when I said "snag". Almost all parts should be here today...taking tomorrow to get them installed. Marlin clutch won't be here until later in the week and I have a biz trip to Italy to attend to so this will likely hit the back burner a bit until I get home.

Starting to part out some of the things we won't need - like the old interior and other interior parts.

Any parts I should absolutely not part with? Since we are swapping everything from the airbox to the rear axle, I am mostly wondering about front drivetrain components and drive shafts from the '98. Probably a good idea to have a spare set of drive shafts and front axles? Maybe a front diff?

 

[rkymtnman]

Long day...but the timing belt is done and the valve cover gaskets are about 90% done. Kid wants to paint the valve covers so we are waiting to button that up until the paint drys. Kid did 98% of the wrenching while I pointed and called out torque specs Not sure why I am so tired....lol.

Boy that crank bolt was FUN. Finally got it off. The front main seal looked almost brand new - as did most everything else besides the valve cover gaskets.

Still have to throw in the rear main but since the engine is on the stand, that will have to wait.

I can't imagine doing some of this stuff while the motor is in the truck. Glad we had the luxury (misfortune?) of pulling the motor and having it on a stand.

Too bad I have to travel to Europe for business for 2 weeks or we'd be driving this thing sooner than later.

 

[phattyduck]

The crank bolt is the only thing that is easier in the truck. Starter bump, for the win.

With the radiator out of the way, there is a lot of room in there:

Try a FWD DOHC timing belt sometime if you want a challenge. Or a Subaru (quad cam) timing belt - those take 5 hands to do!.

-Charlie

 

[rkymtnman]

So....weeks later I'm finally back from Europe and the boy and I dove right back in to the project. Love coming home to a project to work on with my son.

All parts had arrived....we finished the valve cover gasket job and started to button the motor back up. We moved to the '98 to start going through it and low and behold....we never noticed the set of headers that are on that motor. No idea who's they are but hey, a "free" set of headers is a free set of headers, right? We'll be swapping them once we get the "seized" motor out of the '98.

We will have to swap engine wiring harnesses over - the ECU connections are different between the '98 and '99. No biggie...just a little more work.

Ordered new upper and lower ball joints today as the existing joints on the '98 are not long for this world. We'll r/r those once we get the motor in.

Decided to swap the center console over from the '99 since it is in FAR better shape and we want to move the stock stereo over from the '99...that looks like it will take some effort.

Anyway...progress continues! too bad we have mountain bike races 4 of the next 4 weekends or we might actually be driving this by Halloween!