Rock Sliders: C4 fab vs Shrockworks dimple tread

[MAST4R]

Both are great options and have their pros and cons.

I have the Shrockworks dimple plated sliders. IMO they look awesome and the powder coating is great. They're quite hefty and should take a beating. The downside to them is that they may require drilling and use of tricky stick nuts but others have installed them without drilling and they're still on rock solid. I decided to drill just because if I was going to install it I was going to do it once and do it the way it was meant to be. The price was fantastic too. Got them in a GB and paid ~$510. Also be aware that wait times may be 3 months.

The C4 Fab ones look awesome and hefty as well. They are angled up a bit more so you should have a few degrees more side clearance but having a high step sort of defeats the purpose of a step. These don't require any drilling or use of stick nuts so that's a plus. The con: They are at least a few hundred more than the Shrockworks even with GB pricing since they do not come powder coated. So you either have to paint them yourself or pay to get them powder coated which is probably another $250.

Both structurally should be equal. If you want the ease of installation go with C4. If you're willing to put a little more effort and work in the installation but save hundreds of dollars then go with the Shrockworks.

Ha! Did not realize you have Shrock, too.

So you are saying thy did fine on Top of the World? No contact with pinch weld?

The worst stick nut for me was by far one of those for the rear pax side leg. It has been half a year but I think the upper one.

As for strength, I am not satisfied. I was worried about the 2 leg design but never found complaints. I did not drill the hole on the pax front leg. But even so, there is 0.5" gap between wrap and hole, so I am not sure it would have worked well. I know someone else complained of this gap; not sure what they did.

There is evidence of contact at the very front edge of the pax side where, ok, I know, I did NOT drill the hole, but ALSO over the front leg on the driver side, where all bolts are in place as per the instructions.

I have no idea where or why that contact happened. I did drag the pax slider over rocks with lots of noise but that was UP hill. I have not hit or dragged the driver side, only used as side protection once, where a spot is stripped of its powdercoat.

At home, I have jacked all underneath them but carefully before I ever took them on trail to see how they do. They seemed fine except if jacked in the rear, behind the rear leg.

The driver side slider is strong enough to jack between the legs and lift the entire side of the vehicle. Without the hole drilled, the pax side is fine with air under the front tire but at that point there is only 1/8" gap to rocker panel.

I am really not sure why XTerra Shrock sliders have 3 legs, but ours only have 2 and why the mounting plates need to be so tiny. And with so many holes available, I just refuse to drill.

So I am going to see what a local shop would want to add a leg near the front one. There are THREE treaded holes available, right there, unused.

 

[sn_85]

Ha! Did not realize you have Shrock, too.

So you are saying thy did fine on Top of the World? No contact with pinch weld?

The worst stick nut for me was by far one of those for the rear pax side leg. It has been half a year but I think the upper one.

As for strength, I am not satisfied. I was worried about the 2 leg design but never found complaints. I did not drill the hole on the pax front leg. But even so, there is 0.5" gap between wrap and hole, so I am not sure it would have worked well. I know someone else complained of this gap; not sure what they did.

There is evidence of contact at the very front edge of the pax side where, ok, I know, I did NOT drill the hole, but ALSO over the front leg on the driver side, where all bolts are in place as per the instructions.

I have no idea where or why that contact happened. I did drag the pax slider over rocks with lots of noise but that was UP hill. I have not hit or dragged the driver side, only used as side protection once, where a spot is stripped of its powdercoat.

At home, I have jacked all underneath them but carefully before I ever took them on trail to see how they do. They seemed fine except if jacked in the rear, behind the rear leg.

The driver side slider is strong enough to jack between the legs and lift the entire side of the vehicle. Without the hole drilled, the pax side is fine with air under the front tire but at that point there is only 1/8" gap to rocker panel.

I am really not sure why XTerra Shrock sliders have 3 legs, but ours only have 2 and why the mounting plates need to be so tiny. And with so many holes available, I just refuse to drill.

So I am going to see what a local shop would want to add a leg near the front one. There are THREE treaded holes available, right there, unused.

The Shrockworks have held up fine. I like their look, durability, and powdercoating and the price was excellent. No damage or contact on the pinch welds as far as I can tell. They've taken a few hits and have done their job in protecting the 4Runner. I haven't had to use them as jack points so I can't tell you how it would handle with that.

At the time in 2015 there weren't many options at all in regards to sliders for the 5th gens. You had Shrockworks, Rocky Road, Budbuilt, Slee and maybe a couple others. Now you have lots of options to choose from that don't require drilling or use of stick nuts. I've too wondered why they haven't updated their sliders to use existing holes in the frame without drilling or use of stick nuts.

I can't say anything bad about them other than their mounting situation. However for ease and simplicity if I were in the market for sliders I would go with one of the other options.

 

[MAST4R]

The Shrockworks have held up fine. .

So...I had a second square tube leg added to the front pax side with a much bigger holding plate and four bolts, only one of which uses a stick nut.

This brings the total cost of the Shrock sliders to what I would have paid for DIY painted RCI after discount so I am still ahead in that he Shrock powdercoat is superb and that matters on a highly visible part.