Rocky Road Outfitters Suppersliders

Joshua.O.Brown7

New member
Rocky Road Outfitters Supersliders

I've been looking into these rock sliders, however can't seem to find many people with them on. What's the community's view on these?

96'-02' Suppersliders

  • Constructed out of 3/16" Hitch Steel
  • Front and Rear Edges cut at a 45° Angle
  • Bolt-On, no Welding Needed
  • Mounts to Sub-Frame and Along Body Seam
  • Roughly 120lbs
  • Lifetime Guarantee/Warranty
The sliders weigh about 90 pounds per pair when they're packed up. Installation uses self tapping bolts that go into the frame and also tie into the pinch seam under the rocker panel. The self tapping bolts are grade 8, everything else is grade 5. The shear strength between a 5 and 8 are almost identical. The tensional strength is higher on a grade 8, but those forces don't come into play on the slider.

We use this design so that the sliders can be bolted on intead of welded. Welding to the frame destroys any rust coating that is there, and also destroys whatever coating you have on the sliders. If you ever want to remove the slider to recoat them you are going to be damaging the frame.

The square tubing is 2x2" and the round tube is 1.5" diameter. The tube is kicked up about 40 degrees so that they're low profile. With the doors open they make a great step, with the doors closed it's tough to step on them unless you have tiny feet.

We warranty the sliders against bending, breaking, or manufacturing defects for as long as the original owner has them. We powder coat the sliders, but do not warranty the coating...too many other variables like environment and how they're being used. The bolt-on design makes them easy to remove and re-coat, or you can touch them up with semi-gloss spray paint.

We test them in our 50 ton press brake to make sure they'll be able to handle a 2 ton vehicle. Bending points are several times higher than the stress that we've calculated will ever be put on the vehicle.

Unfortunately, the best pics we've got are on our website.

Info provided by Rocky Road​

Rocky Road Outfitters Info:

Warranty
Products MANUFACTURED BY Rocky Road Outfitters, llc, are guaranteed to be free from defects in materials or craftsmanship. If a Rocky Road manufactured product is defective and has not been modified prior to installation, we'll replace it.​
Guarantee
Look for the guarantee highlight on those items covered by our lifetime warranty. We build many of our products out of heavy gauge steel for durability and long life. Should your lifetime guaranteed product ever bend out of shape, or suffer structural damage, just sent it back to Rocky Road Outfitters and we'll send a new unit out to you or give you equal credit to a higher priced unit if you like. Warranty only applies to original purchaser of the item and shipping charges to our shop are not covered. Scratches and superficial dings, etc, are not considered structural damage. Warning: do not try to damage products with the Rocky Road guarantee, you will most likely cause serious damage to your vehicle before our product fails.​

Rocky Road Outfitters Supersliders

DSC00022.jpg

toy_superslider_med.jpg

5thgen_4runner_superslider4_med.jpg
 

Attachments

  • DSC00022.jpg
    DSC00022.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 4,384
  • 5thgen_4runner_superslider4_med.jpg
    5thgen_4runner_superslider4_med.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 1,076
  • toy_superslider_med.jpg
    toy_superslider_med.jpg
    32 KB · Views: 1,008
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
They look decent.. and I do like the square tube part of them. The only thing I'd be concerned about is the bolt-on part of them vs. welding them on- if you're not doing super hard wheeling I'm sure it's fine, but welding would be stronger overall, and probably easier to put on.
Also, with how close they tuck to the body, I would be worried about a bit of contact. On mine, I do see some contact even with a 1/2" gap from dropping onto a rock or even just hilifting from them. Again, this might not be an issue if you don't wheel it very hard.

Edit- I was wrong, bolting can be just as strong if done right
 
Last edited:
I have bolt-on, but don't like that design because the mounting plates are too little and cute. It seems like a lot of stress for the frame and the bolts. Also not sure of the flat bar bits...could be completely wrong, but it seems like they would allow a lot more flex than tubes in the same spot. Also agree with derpiful on the apparent tight body clearance.

All just speculation on my part, though...
 
I have bolt-on, but don't like that design because the mounting plates are too little and cute. It seems like a lot of stress for the frame and the bolts. Also not sure of the flat bar bits...could be completely wrong, but it seems like they would allow a lot more flex than tubes in the same spot. Also agree with derpiful on the apparent tight body clearance.

All just speculation on my part, though...

They use trailer hitch steel. Lifetime guarantee they won't bend flex or dent. He says he will replace them if they do. To me these sliders look great. I might look into these when I buy my sliders.
 
Those look really clean! I'd like to know how much they weigh, sorry in advance if it's already been mentioned...
 
They look decent.. and I do like the square tube part of them. The only thing I'd be concerned about is the bolt-on part of them vs. welding them on- if you're not doing super hard wheeling I'm sure it's fine, but welding would be stronger overall, and probably easier to put on.
Also, with how close they tuck to the body, I would be worried about a bit of contact. On mine, I do see some contact even with a 1/2" gap from dropping onto a rock or even just hilifting from them. Again, this might not be an issue if you don't wheel it very hard.

I'm not advocating for these particular sliders, don't know anything about the brand and the pictures don't give much detail. Having said that, my #7000 FJ62 has bolt on rock sliders. And I do super hard wheeling with it. Welding is not stronger than bolting, in fact unless you really know what you are doing welding is inherently weaker. The weld itself is not the problem, the material right next to the weld is. Not going to get in to that(Metallurgy topic) right now, but suffice to say I have LESS than 1/2" of clearance and they don't move. They are made of DOM and plate, and are properly gusseted. I also installed spacers through the frame so as not to compress the rails when bolting it on. 8 bolts per side, grade 8, 7/16" diameter.
:music:
 
Suppersliders? Those sound delicious. Some cheese, a little mayo and some pickle. Is supper before dinner or after? Anyway....

I have seen these sliders before, and am curious to how they stand up sitting right on the body like they do. If I remember correctly from previous research they mount to the body as well as the frame. I don't know how that would pan out with a hard smack on one of them. Hopefully some folks who have these could chime in soon.
 
Suppersliders? Those sound delicious. Some cheese, a little mayo and some pickle. Is supper before dinner or after? Anyway....

I have seen these sliders before, and am curious to how they stand up sitting right on the body like they do. If I remember correctly from previous research they mount to the body as well as the frame. I don't know how that would pan out with a hard smack on one of them. Hopefully some folks who have these could chime in soon.

Well my toe hitch had taken many rock hits. Totaled a Caddy and Ford Escape and it hasn't budged. If these sliders can take his like that I would love them.
 
Personally I do not like sliders that protrude too far out. As long as it provides the strength and protection needed, then sweeeet. I'll be curious to hear and see more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm gonna try to get more technical info from Rocky Road Outfitters, I'll be sure to post the info I get from them.

I had a set of these on my 95 Pickup. The are very heavy and very strong. They not only bolt to the frame, they also bolt to the pinch weld/ body seam. I had a little trouble installing them, as you have to drill so many holes. The problem was not drilling, but if you are off a tab bit on one, all of them can be off, especially with the pinch weld.

After the install, I really liked them. They were solid. Just be patient and take your time.
 
If these truly do attach to the body as well as the frame, the body will no longer be isolated from the frame. That has to mean that there will be much more drive train and road noise in the cab.
 
If these truly do attach to the body as well as the frame, the body will no longer be isolated from the frame. That has to mean that there will be much more drive train and road noise in the cab.

I grabbed the information from the site, it says mounts to sub-frame and along the body seam not sure if that means that is the location that the rail runs along or if there is actually mounting hardware on the body seam.
 
Just a heads up, rocky road outfitters is renowned for their bad customer service . Personally they warrantied one item for me ( coil spring spacers ) and did nothing about a track bar that wore out in 6 months .
 
From looking at this picture, the bars that connect the slider to the frame are like 1" square tubing, which makes me think these are for steps or for
looks, not actual offroad use. No way those are supporting the weight of the vehicle. Maybe I'm missing something?

Also, those flat bar supports that tie in the round tubing to the square tubing are not confidence inspiring. Flat bar just doesn't have the same structural strength that round or square tubing has.

208398d1466303795-rocky-road-outfitters-suppersliders-dsc00022.jpg
 
From looking at this picture, the bars that connect the slider to the frame are like 1" square tubing, which makes me think these are for steps or for
looks, not actual offroad use. No way those are supporting the weight of the vehicle. Maybe I'm missing something?

Also, those flat bar supports that tie in the round tubing to the square tubing are not confidence inspiring. Flat bar just doesn't have the same structural strength that round or square tubing has.

208398d1466303795-rocky-road-outfitters-suppersliders-dsc00022.jpg

Found this picture perhaps this helps.

IMG_4094.jpg

IMG_0830.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4094.jpg
    IMG_4094.jpg
    129.3 KB · Views: 969
  • IMG_0830.jpg
    IMG_0830.jpg
    131.7 KB · Views: 1,048
Hitch steel? Why are they bragging about that? "Hitch Steel" is nothing more than regular steel other than the fact that it has no internal seam.
As a matter of fact, receiver tubing tends to have thinner walls to ensure a ball hitch assembly can fit without issues.
In essence, "Hitch steel" is the equivalent of DOM, and regular steel is the equivalent of CREW or any seamed tubing.

Looking at the main page, one of their selling points is how close to the body the sliders are.
So...if that's the case, why are they showcasing two obviously different vehicles? The "offending" vehicle has a pinch weld seam which of course disallows close body fitment, whereas the one they show with their sliders does not have a seam allowing close fitment.
The only thing that is better in comparison is the 45º angle vs the box end of the slider. Couple minutes with a grinding wheel and a welded cap can fix that.

I have yet to see an example photo on their page of the slider being pinned directly on a rock, or even used as a hi-lift point. Other companies do have that, not to mention customer experience which many of us here have demonstrated.

Don't mind me, just playing devils advocate. I'm just helping inform a potential customer on what they're potentially buying.

Edit: Also, I giggled like a little school girl a little bit when I read how they put a piece of receiver tubing in their 50-ton press and it didn't bend.
Okay.....now install the sliders on a truck and put 50-tons on that and we'll see what happens. Interesting "selling point"
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top