AntleredRuin
New member
Got junkyard rotors for my TBU/SBU swap. Look like they have plenty of meat left on them, just a slight 'lip' on the outer edge from old/undersized pads.
Was gonna get them turned but they guy said they are already too thin and he could not legally turn them.
They were cheap (came with the calipers I pulled) so not complaining too much; I may just file off the lip and hope for the best, as even cheap rotors go for $50 each. (Rockauto is cheaper, but shipping costs are friggin crazy).
My main question; what is the legal thickness necessary to turn and is it differentiated per vehicle/braking system?
The whole point of doing the TBU is the thicker rotor, right? (thicker = less overheating and 'warping'). So the 4runner rotors are thinner by default. So technically the 4runner rotor is closer to being legally 'too thin' than the Tundra rotor. So my 'too thin' Tundra rotors may be just fine for my T4R (may not notice increased stopping power though)? My stock rotors and pads are shot, so really anything is an improvement.
Am I missing something here?
Was gonna get them turned but they guy said they are already too thin and he could not legally turn them.
They were cheap (came with the calipers I pulled) so not complaining too much; I may just file off the lip and hope for the best, as even cheap rotors go for $50 each. (Rockauto is cheaper, but shipping costs are friggin crazy).
My main question; what is the legal thickness necessary to turn and is it differentiated per vehicle/braking system?
The whole point of doing the TBU is the thicker rotor, right? (thicker = less overheating and 'warping'). So the 4runner rotors are thinner by default. So technically the 4runner rotor is closer to being legally 'too thin' than the Tundra rotor. So my 'too thin' Tundra rotors may be just fine for my T4R (may not notice increased stopping power though)? My stock rotors and pads are shot, so really anything is an improvement.
Am I missing something here?