Rough running

D

Directrix

New member
Does anyone know what could be causing this... Because a lot of us are stumped here. My dad was driving and the gear was put into neutral and reved because apparently the dog switched the gears while sitting at a stop light. Then my dad claimed there was a scratching noise for about a second and then started idling really rough.

The problem is the stealership said that there's 0 compression in the 5th cylinder. It's an '02 with 100k miles. The thing is the engine RUNS OK!??!? When I mean ok, at idle it vibrates the whole truck a little bit, but at 3k rpm you can hardly tell anything is wrong other than the sound. If there was a rod broken it would run REALLY rough I'm guessing... But it's actually drivable..? It's not at the stealership anymore though fortunately.
 
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Have you pulled the plugs and, if so, compare them all to get a sense of what is going on in each cylinder. You can also do a compression check of your cylinders.
 
wow, you might be dead on. I hope you are correct.. I'm glad my dad already got a new car so no matter what the problem is I still get it! :bravo: Yeah for the first 24 hours they said it was just the spark plugs and they replaced all of them. Then a day later they said the cylinder had 0 compression. So that sounds like a pretty good guess to me.
 
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Yeah I guess the dealer was right. One of the pistons is confirmed, not moving. So there's a broken rod, but it wasn't making much noise which is strange. I think I'm just going to be getting a whole new engine. :/
 
call Irbis Offroad or Jim Used's Toyota Parts. i bet they would have something. also, i bet there are a couple 4runners on craigslist that are being parted out
 
Directrix said:
Is 80k miles considered a lot of miles?
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On a Ford, it's gettin up there. On a Toyota, that's not high at all. But it really depends on the area where you live, how long the vehicle sat for, what kind of miles they were (i.e. mtns, towing, stop and go traffic), etc...
 
ok so we got a quote from the shop to replace the engine...

they say it will be $3000 not including the engine, just for the swap.

Does that sound right? Because to me that sounds a little high...
 
That's retorted high. Labor should be ~$1000 at a shop that is actually here on planet Earth. I found a place down here in SoCal that will take the engine out, completely rebuild it, throw it back in, and warranty it for 3 yrs./36K for $1395 - or $2195 to rebuild with OEM parts - same warranty! And they have been in biz for about 10 years and have an "A" BBB rating.

$3000 divided by $85/hr (and that's a high shop rate) = 35+ hours. Ask them why it would take them 35 hours to R&R an engine, are you paying them to learn how too?
 
alright well yeah that was baseline auto.

I called Repair Master Auto and they said best case scenario would be $1800, worst case would be $2100 for labor I think only.

So that sounds a lot more reasonable.. They said 23hours maximum.

See my dad just lets shops take advantage of him, they know he knows nothing about it because he agrees with everything they say and asks all the wrong questions. I at least have watched engine swaps a couple times in auto tech class enough to know it's not worth $3k in labor.

They are trying to scam my dad and it's working.
 
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Directrix said:
ok so we got a quote from the shop to replace the engine...

they say it will be $3000 not including the engine, just for the swap.

Does that sound right? Because to me that sounds a little high...
Click to expand...

That may be just the shop manager's way of telling you that he does not want to pull his best guy off other work all day to swap your engine... just a thought!

Replacing a stock engine is a little tedious, but not rocket science. Get quotes from at least three shops that do good work, pick what you feel the most comfortable with... and you may want to switch to a high detergent oil, similar to diesel oil, when you rebuild.... keep it from getting gunked up.
 
Mr. Leary said:
That may be just the shop manager's way of telling you that he does not want to pull his best guy off other work all day to swap your engine... just a thought!

Replacing a stock engine is a little tedious, but not rocket science. Get quotes from at least three shops that do good work, pick what you feel the most comfortable with... and you may want to switch to a high detergent oil, similar to diesel oil, when you rebuild.... keep it from getting gunked up.
Click to expand...

Not to threadjack, but Mr. Leary do you know if Mobil 1 Synth is a high detergent oil? I just changed the oil in my Honda and the manual calls for 5W20 high detergent oil. I forgot to read the label on the jug of oil when I bought it and I already threw it away.
 
I found out it is a detergent oil according to Mobil 1's website, but nothing I read actually said "high" detergent. I'm sure it's fine, I've been using Mobil 1 synth for a long time in a lot of cars.
 
win! I guess they found a place with an engine and they are going to install it for 2500 including the engine and a 90 day warranty, they also will inspect after 500 miles to make sure everything's good.

this is gonna be awesome, I can't wait to get rid of my shitty ford escort!
 
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