Royal Purple or Mobile 1 engine oil

Great sales pitch, but no meat to the video. I would want to see the weight of oil being tested (0w-20, 10w-30, 20w-50). Also seeing those oils run at -40F (or whatever cold start temp) and then 180F (or whatever operating temp). Then a coke test for shutdown to simulate thermal soak back.

YMMV

I agree with you, I would like to see that test too but how often we are in those conditionds, the video strictly demonstrated that with friction royal purple leaves less scratches on the metal vs Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge. I used toyota oil when I had my 4Runner but now I don't have 4Runner and my mechanic stop using Mobil 1 and switched to Castrol Edge cause they specialize in European cars like BMW, MB and etc and he start seeing patern with MB and BMW engine failures, so the brand I drive don't use Mobil 1 at the dealer they use Valvoline. That how I stumped over the Royal purple and decide to use it.
 
I agree with you, I would like to see that test too but how often we are in those conditionds, the video strictly demonstrated that with friction royal purple leaves less scratches on the metal vs Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge. I used toyota oil when I had my 4Runner but now I don't have 4Runner and my mechanic stop using Mobil 1 and switched to Castrol Edge cause they specialize in European cars like BMW, MB and etc and he start seeing patern with MB and BMW engine failures, so the brand I drive don't use Mobil 1 at the dealer they use Valvoline. That how I stumped over the Royal purple and decide to use it.

The video appears to demonstrate 5w-30 Royal Purple against two undisclosed yet implied competitor oils. It does not stipulate the weight (Xw-Y) of these competitor oils which is extremely important. Since the video doesn't show this, I can only make assumptions which we can all look up the definition of what that makes you and me :)

One arm bandit. Would you put shampoo in your engine?

I'm not saying RP is bad, I'm just saying the video does not show a valid test. For example the others may be 0w-20 or straight 0w. This would make them overall more viscous and therefore thinner under the same conditions. This is good for cold starting and cold weather operation as your pumps can pump the oil to the appropriate places but it is not so good at elevated temperatures when it becomes too thin and ceases to provide proper lubrication. Basically the video did it's job of convincing you and making you a customer, but it does not convince me.

Here's a -40 pour point test of 4 brands all 5w-30. There's obviously some variables that we don't know such as were they all placed in the freezer at the same time and did they stabilize (measured in the freezer). Then they aren't poured at the same time but you can get a general feel for how things go. Maybe you don't live somewhere where it gets to -40, but the day you do will you be questioning your motor oil?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_vxdO_9nc&ab_channel=mattmopar440
 
Just to add to [MENTION=112119]mo_mo[/MENTION]'s point, I don't feel comfortable how the video changes cameras conveniently just as he goes to measure the wear marks. That's an easy spot to do some magic editing if you really wanted to be sneaky (something a lot of hucksters tend to do, not saying RP is lying; just that it's a common technique in film editing.)

Post Note-

That pour video is pretty damn cool! I have to agree with a lot of the comments though, I think the Mobil1 and Amsoil would probably flow similarly to each other if the same bottle was used. I think the Mobil1 flowed faster because the opening is about 50~60% bigger than the other 3 bottles. I'm shocked at how poorly the Royal Purple flowed.
 
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Not trying to argue with anyone about which oil is better or not because I'm far from being mechanic, but I'm trying to figure out which oil is good to provide longevity of my car. I was just surprise to find out that Lexus don't use Mobil 1.
 
Name me one product or brand of anything that has alway been the best at everything since day one.

I can't.

Even Hostess went out of business when people stopped buying Twinkies.

However there's something to be said about products that have years of producing reliable results. I've always paid the Mobile 1 premium, but rarely kept a vehicle long enough to really know if it was money well spent.

I read a report on aircraft engine oil that explained when changed at recommended intervals the used oil still retains nearly 90% of it's original integrity. The main reason it's removed is the lead and contaminate retention.

I believe current oils are light years ahead of what was used when most of us first started to drive. When's the last time you saw blue smoke puking out of the exhaust of late model car? A prematurely warn out crank? Cam shaft lobes worn down?

Use a good quality oil, change it on schedule . . . you'll be bored with your Toyota before you wear it out!
 
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not that I'm trying to stir the pot or beat a dead horse, but isn't RP made in the U.S. Porter, Tx to be exact. And according to the oil samples that I sent in on my wife's X-terra, Mobile-1 and Royal Purple both had nearly identical numbers as far as viscosity and wear metals at 10k miles, both were 5w30 and both using the same Mann filters. I will personally keep an eye out for RP when it's on sale at Wally World and stock up, if not I grab the Mobile-1 high mileage.
 
I'm partial to Redline Oils.

However as long as you change the oil per the recommended intervals and use synthetic (whatever is on sale) you are golden. Oil chatter (change intervals, type, viscosity, etc) will quickly become ridiculous.
 
I used to run RP in my motorcycles with no issues and only good things to say, however in my last 4 vehicles I have stuck with M1 full syn. Also, with no issues or complaints.
 
Mobil1 lifetime devotee here.

ACME oil company could come out with an oil that supposedly makes your motor run 750K miles with no oil changes, bumps your HP by 50% and increases the length of your johnson by 3" and I'd still run Mobil1.

:-)

Same here, the best oil made....but I am biased, I am getting ready to retire from the mother ship that makes this stuff

Walmart had the 5 quart jugs on sale the other day for $23. I don't own my 4Runner yet, but I purchased 3 jugs of the 0W20, so I will be ready. I change the M1 every 5K miles. I know it is over kill, but I also sleep at night.

77
 
is it ok to use the GF-6A instead of the GF-5 engine oil?

ILSAC GF-6 | Mobil™

"GF-6 is the newest ILSAC engine oil performance standard aimed at improving fuel economy and enhancing engine capabilities for passenger cars. This new standard will replace the current ILSAC GF-5 standard. Every new level of standard is backward compatible with the previous generation." - Source: Linked article above
 

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