Royal Purple Synthetic Oil

[JP4RNR]

Royal Purple Synthetic. I never heard of this but a guy on another forum said he was considering changing from Amsoil to Royal Purple. Here is a data sheet and tests that were done visually the wear on bearings pictured is far less with Royal Purple

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

 

[RonMAIDEN]

If it was going into a weekend warrior track car I might use it but in an everyday driver with fun weekend intentions then IMO it's way overkill and it isn't that much better than the cheaper synthetics vs the cost diff.

I tore down my very raced Eclipse motor that had M1 synthetic over 8 race seasons and and over 100k miles and my bearings showed minimal wear from the abuse. In that car I changed the oil every 3k or twice a season but in my 4Runner I don't have a probelm going 8k between changes which is about every 9 months.

 

[Road Warrior]

Royal Purple Synthetic. I never heard of this but a guy on another forum said he was considering changing from Amsoil to Royal Purple. Here is a data sheet and tests that were done visually the wear on bearings pictured is far less with Royal Purple

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

OK, I'll bite!
RP puts Extreme Pressure (EP) additives in ALL of their products. EP additives are used for EHL (elasto hydrodynamic lubrication AKA boundary lubrication) applications such as heavily loaded gearboxes, with gears that are mashing together with excessive loads , vibrations, etc. In short, in extreme load conditions EP properties allow the severly loaded metal surfaces to momentarily "deform" in order to avoid contacting one another (that's pretty cool if you ask me!). Any product with an EP additive will perform exactly as RP's on the Falex test rig. Of course, no other companies put EP additives in motor oil, so it's an expected outcome for this test when comparing it to "similar" products. Do we need that type of performance in a motor oil????Ya'll have to decide if that's a fair comparison or not. The other two concerns are 1) typically at high temperatures, over 180F, EP additives become acidic 2) In proper application, EP additives bond-plate out- to metal surfaces (on a molecular level). I guess if the crankshaft and a main bearing came in contact, having an EP inside the engine would extend the amount of time I had before we threw a rod. But that doesn't happen in auto engines because fluid film is (should) always present between the crankshaft and the main bearings. EP additives are nothing I really want hanging around inside the engine of my beloved vehicle.

RP's whole marketing strategy is to get people to see the 'magic' of their product performing on a Falex machine, which to be honest is quite impressive, even for those of us that know a bit about lubrication. IMHO- In proper application their products work quite well. They market well and have a very loyal following!

 

[Casper]

ran it for like 4K miles...changed it early because I was concered with sheering that is known to occur with RP's street oils. UOA was good but I swapped over to Castrol 0W30. I ran that for about 5K miles and then drained to see the UOA on that...showed better than the Royal Purple.

Im currently in my second interval with the Castrol and currently about 7K miles in. Just changed oil filters and topped off the oil. Should be good for another 3-5K miles and especially since temps in Vegas have dropped down to below the temp of the sun's surface.