Royal's 2004 Sr5 Build Thread (picture heavy)

royal T4R

New member
Hello all!

A little back story, my first ever ride in a 4Runner was in a 3rd gen when I was a kid. I thought it was the bee's knees that a car can roll down it's rear window with a push of a button, it is still arguably the coolest feature of my 4Runner today.

I come from a "car guy" background but I also stunt motorcycles. I sold my sports car as it did not provide enough utility for my lifestyle. I loved the thing to death but it still needed about $3000 into it before I would finally be happy with the build. Then I got to thinking why spend $3000 on a car that can't take me camping, long distances, or just be generally reliable when I can sell it and use that money towards the things I want to accomplish. This is how I ended up looking at the 2nd Gen Tacoma vs 4th Gen 4Runner. I spent about two weeks looking at pros and cons of both and in the end the Taco was just too far out of my price range for the model year and drive train I wanted.


My old car 1998 Nissan 240sx S14 with an SR20DET Notchtop Kouki swap

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Also me on my Harley Sportster
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I ended up picking out a 2004 Sr5 V8 with 94,884 miles on the clock. It freaked me out a bit when I first got in as the VSC and VSC off lights were illuminated but I found the TSB for the Zero Point Calibration reset on this forum and then bought it later that day for $9000. It has a bunch of paint issues and a few more dents than I normally would have liked but it was a great price, a strong motor, and I plan on adding some battle scars to it.

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I had owned it for less than a week and was invited to take the truck out on some OHV roads. We went to Hollister Hills and had a 2nd gen Taco, a 1st gen 4Runner, myself, a 5th gen 4Runner, and an old Ford truck. We went up a hill and the 1st gen 4Runner snapped his drive shaft. The two vehicles behind me backed off the hill and I stayed up to assist with removing the driveshaft. Once removed we planned that I would back up off the hill in case the 1st gen couldnt stop and as I was about to hop in my car they decided to move the 1st gen. I hear a "LOOK OUT" and I see the 1st gen with all 4 tires locked up sliding down the hill going towards my car. He ended up punching a hole into my bumper cover and bending the headlight bracket and the hood latch support bracket.

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I removed the front bumper cover and I just made the purchase of a Coastal Offroad DIY front bumper kit.

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Some small things I have done so far to the truck are to remove the running boards, added Hella Supertones

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replaced the hood struts, I made a trash can for the back

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and just replaced all the dead lights on the exterior. I had also installed the Sony XAV-AX1000 head unit but I am looking to get the AX-200 as it has 3 camera inputs.

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I also added some Narcan to the truck in case of emergencies.

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This will conclude my intro for now.
 
I wanted to get some opinions on a lift kit. I have done a bunch of research but there are so many options to choose from.

I would love to run 32's or 33's the next time I will need new tires.

What I want to know is what lift kit/lift combo will work with 110lbs of added front weight with my V8 that will provide a great on road ride with this set up for now?


In the future I want to add a winch, rear metal bumper and a tire carrier but these three things can wait a bit. I really want a lift kit now and will be fine replacing the springs later.
 
I saw this T4r for sale few weeks ago. I hope you checked the carfax/autocheck because from what I remember the mileage is way off.

I might be wrong though. pm me if you want more details.
 

  • Bilstein 5100s all around with fronts on the lowest setting


  • OME886 fronts


  • Toytec superflex rears


  • 1/2 inch tophat spacer on both driver and passenger front


ground to fender hub to fender

Front Driver Before: 33' 19.75'
Front Driver After: 39.625' 25.875'

Front Passenger Before: 33.25' 19.25'
Front Passenger After: 40.5' 26.5'

Rear Driver Before: 35.75' 21.5'
Rear Driver After: 38.5' 24.25'

Rear Passenger Before: 35.75' 21.5'
Rear Passenger After: 38.125' 23.75'



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I get a front end skip when crawling slowly and a knocking sound on the front passenger side. I replaced both OEM CVs with Cardone front CVs. The knocking got better on the passenger side but it still skips when I turn right. I think the CV angle is way too high. I called YotaMafia and he also said that the 7 inches of lift was crazy.
 


  • I called YotaMafia and he also said that the 7 inches of lift was crazy.


  • Now, I'm no master mechanic by any means but uhhh, something is very, very, very wrong here. I have the EXACT same shocks and springs and have nowhere near 7 inches of lift. Furthermore, you really shouldn't go above 3 in of lift on these, 4in max, or the suspension geometry seriously gets messed up. The clanking is likely numerous different things hitting each other. And I'd imagine that driving with things like that for much longer will cause serious issues.
    The problem may be that you preloaded the springs on the shocks, which the OME 886 are not meant for preload. And also, the 886's are meant for rigs that have lots of added weight in the front like bumper, winch, etc.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
The problem may be that you preloaded the springs on the shocks, which the OME 886 are not meant for preload. And also, the 886's are meant for rigs that have lots of added weight in the front like bumper, winch, etc.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


I don't think I preloaded the springs at all. Here are pictures of both sides. Three of the upper "notches" are visible above the cup. Did I happen to miss a setting?

I also have only driven the vehicle a total of 2 miles. I did not feel comfortable with the hopping from the front that was happening.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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