RR Sliders on 2011 TE

[homeyclaus]

Yaay! My RR Sliders are here.
Yaay! All the holes line up on the 2011 by the looks of it, although one of the holes they want to use don't have threading on the 2011 frame.

Booo! Something plastic seems to interfere with proper mounting.
Booo! Some monkey at UPS dropped it and bent one of the mounting tabs. It looks like it took some serious effort to achieve.

Question: Those 2010 owners, or 2011 TE owners who added RR sliders already, did you have to remove the plastic trim piece at the bottom of your doors?

 

[Titanpat57]

Are you talking about the plastic tabs that stick down, located at the bottom of therear doors...right in in front of the rear wheels?

Yes...they come off.

Sorry to hear your Sliders were damaged.

 

[homeyclaus]

I saw the plastic angled thingies held on by the two bolts, yes, those came off. it seems the plastic trim that goes from the front of the rear wheel well all the way to the front wheel well plastic trim seems to interfere with getting the thing in place - there is a 1/8" gap between the frame and the top hole, and the strut part that comes out makes contact... make sense?

 

[mtbnole]

pics?????

 

[homeyclaus]

Gotta wait until I have time during daylight hours. For all I know it'll line up then anyways - I was just checking if there was a "oh, yeah, right, I took all that plastic stuff below the doors off to make it fit" kind of thing going on.

 

[westwind77]

I saw the plastic angled thingies held on by the two bolts, yes, those came off. it seems the plastic trim that goes from the front of the rear wheel well all the way to the front wheel well plastic trim seems to interfere with getting the thing in place - there is a 1/8" gap between the frame and the top hole, and the strut part that comes out makes contact... make sense?

Here is my post from another RR slider thread...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/73817-free-rocky-road-sliders-sr5-le-4.html

Just an FYI - they had a 'typo' on the instruction for the install and puts the install to a grinding halt! Essentially they tell you to put the right on the left and the left on the right. The bolt holes still almost line up perfectly so it leads one to believe they were built wrong.

I e-mailed them about the error after going back and forth with them about the sliders not lining up, never heard back from them so I don't know if they fixed the wording yet.

Their instructions said: “Note the two different Rockrails and the sides they belong on. The mounting leg that is closest to the end of the Rockrail will indicate the front.”

That is incorrect! The mounting leg that is closest to the end will indicate the REAR.

Just keep that in mind and you will be all set. They also tell you to remove some hardware under the 4R, but if you angle the sliders enough you can slip the bracket behind it without having to remove anything, at least on mine it worked.

You might want to actually make sure they are on the right sides as there was/is an error in the installation direction as stated above! The directions I got were for all 3 trim lines. Others have received the sliders and the directions have not been modified yet. It lines up almost perfectly if they are on the wrong side, they key being almost. Swap them around it it is perfect 100%. I noticed when they were on the wrong sides due to the bad directions the sliders impacted my rocker panels and it made it seem like I had to cut/remove them, even though the SR5 version was designed so that was not needed. I highly suspect if you are impacting the panels AND you are missing a bolt hole thread that they make be on the wrong side, at NO fault to you, even though you have the TE.

 

[Titanpat57]

Gotta wait until I have time during daylight hours. For all I know it'll line up then anyways - I was just checking if there was a "oh, yeah, right, I took all that plastic stuff below the doors off to make it fit" kind of thing going on.

Unless something has changed from the 10 to the 11...I had no problem, although there isn't a whole lot of room once their installed...maybe 1/2" to 3/4" between the top of the slider and the bottom of the plastic.

 

[SeattleMike]

Gotta wait until I have time during daylight hours. For all I know it'll line up then anyways - I was just checking if there was a "oh, yeah, right, I took all that plastic stuff below the doors off to make it fit" kind of thing going on.

Nope.

There is a "oh yeah, make sure that you have them on the correct sides" kind of thing. Of the three supports, the two closest together go under the rear door, not the front.

 

[mtbnole]

what's the step up height difference between the superslider and the floor inside?

 

[homeyclaus]

Well, after posting I was becoming more and more convinced I had them on the wrong way around, but I had them set up the same way SeattleMike had them, with the two struts closest together at the rear. Does anyone else's 2011 TE not have the threading in the frame for the bottom hole of the middle strut?

When lifted to attempt to flush the mounting plates with the side to the frame, the slider hits the plastic under the front passenger's door, with a 1/8th inch of space remaining between the top bolt hole and the frame. I'll try again tonight with a stronger helper to see if it's just a leveling issue or something, and get pics if it ain't working out.

As far as one of the mounting plates being bent, I am not sure - getting customer service (or anyone really) that actually gives a sh*t in northern VA is next to impossible, custom-anything is even harder, and the drive to MD to get anything done is getting really tiring. I'll poke around the ih8mud local clubs for machine shop recommendations.

 

[4ShoreRunner]

As far as one of the mounting plates being bent, I am not sure - getting customer service (or anyone really) that actually gives a sh*t in northern VA is next to impossible, custom-anything is even harder, and the drive to MD to get anything done is getting really tiring. I'll poke around the ih8mud local clubs for machine shop recommendations.

I don't know how different they are from the shrockworks I installed on mine but let me know if you ever need a hand with anything.

 

[homeyclaus]

4Shore, thanks for your offer.

A friend and neighbor came by to help of Friday night. The passenger side was no problem, except on the 2011 one of the holes in the frame for the middle strut has no threading. 5 bolts, ok.

So, now comes the issue. The driver's side slider's rear mounting plate is bent.

And as noted in another thread, the hydraulic lines are so stiff (and metal) that getting even just 1/8" of space puts me in fear of bending or cracking something.

I know why the KDSS hydraulic pump is where it's at - this is an impressive contraption, shielded by a 2 lb skid plate of its very own. Here is what it looked like with the covers off:

I may be able to slip the mounts in under the hydraulic lines, but the bent tab obviously needs to be fixed first.

Are 2010's different in this layout?

 

[harper7]

4Shore, thanks for your offer.

A friend and neighbor came by to help of Friday night. The passenger side was no problem, except on the 2011 one of the holes in the frame for the middle strut has no threading. 5 bolts, ok.

So, now comes the issue. The driver's side slider's rear mounting plate is bent.
And as noted in another thread, the fuel lines are so stiff (and metal) that getting even just 1/8" of space puts me in fear of bending or cracking something.

I know why the fuel pump is where it's at - this is an impressive contraption, shielded by a 2 lb skid plate of its very own.

I may be able to slip the mounts in under the fuel lines, but the bent tab obviously needs to be fixed first.

Are 2010's different in this layout?

That's not the fuel pump,it's in the fuel tank and the lines run inside of the frame rails. That's the the KDSS pump and lines.

Just straighten that bent tab back out with a hammer or big screw driver for leverage.
Not sure what kind of steel they are using to have it bend like that.RR's quality has come into question lately.
Shrocksworks steel is heat treated and you would have to have a train hit it to bend it like that and the bolts are grade 8 heat treated.

 

[homeyclaus]

That's not the fuel pump,it's in the fuel tank and the lines run inside of the frame rails. That's the the KDSS pump and lines.

Just straighten that bent tab back out with a hammer or big screw driver for leverage.
Not sure what kind of steel they are using to have it bend like that.RR's quality has come into question lately.
Shrocksworks steel is heat treated and you would have to have a train hit it to bend it like that and the bolts are grade 8 heat treated.

KDSS pump - got it. The installations instructions stated it was a fuel line, so my bad for believing them. That makes it worse, since it confirms they're high-pressure hydraulic lines that you really want to avoid bending.

For the tab to have bent, all it would take is the 100 lb package leaning against the wall and for it to be knocked over. 100 lbs falling 5 feet just right onto one tab will bend or break steel. This being said, I'd need the mother of all bars to bend it back, and a gigantic vise to keep it still.

If the bolt has bars on it, it's SAE (or Imperial) measure, and you're risking the threading because the US (I guess Canada too) is the last country to still use this - I guess that's one way of preventing it from coming loose. Metric bolts have numbers on them. As far as heat-treating and steel quality goes, I'd be highly, highly skeptical. It will be standard mild steel, no matter how many hundreds of dollars they charge. Everything else reeks of b.s. and I don't have that kind of faith in people any more.

Does anyone have a recommendation of a shop in Northern VA that would be willing to fix the tab or mounting and won't eff it up?