RUST 2010 5th gen

[20034RunnerV84x2]

It will make your paint extremely smooth and silky. It will also help reduce the dullness in any paint that wasn't properly cared for by removing the haze those contaniments mentioned above cause. It will not get rid of scratches. You are essentially removing a layer of paint protection/wax that is full of particles etched into the paint. Meguiars Smooth Surface Clay Kit is what I use.

I caly barred my truck and it didn't remove any oxidation, that's left for the compounds. Didn't remove any of these tiny spots from the window sill of the tailgate, either.

 

[JayceeP]

I caly barred my truck and it didn't remove any oxidation, that's left for the compounds. Didn't remove any of these tiny spots from the window sill of the tailgate, either.

I'm not really sure if you're contradicting what I said or if you are adding extra info. Anyway, no, a clay bar will not remove below surface defects as you said. However, if you are waxing your paint from the get-go and regularly wash, clay (once or twice a year or as needed), and wax you should experience minimal defects like oxidation. If you are denying a clay bar works and it didn't improve the appearance of your paint, you didn't do it properly or put enough effort into it.

For those reading this: Claying is an essential part of maintaining the appearance and condition of your vehicle's paint.

 

[LLL]

Great- clay barring, it is. But does that mean I don't go in for the «decontamination process» suggested by the bodyshop guy examining my rust spots (and who explained the rust colored débris on the paint elsewhere)?

 

[JayceeP]

Great- clay barring, it is. But does that mean I don't go in for the «decontamination process» suggested by the bodyshop guy examining my rust spots (and who explained the rust colored débris on the paint elsewhere)?

I think I saw you post about this in another thread. Is the paint actually rusting from underneath, or is it just specs that look like rust? I know when my father had his white cargo vans parked by train tracks at his shop/warehouse they would get covered in rail dust and you could really notice it up close. They wouldn't come off from regular washing and it looked like the paint was rusting, but it wasn't. If they don't come off, you may need a more aggressive method, and that is something I haven't had to do. I would try claying a small area to assess (clean the area first)- a clay bar has always removed any above surface defects on my paint. If the clay bar works, wash your whole vehicle and then clay the whole thing- anywhere there is paint. You should also wax after claying and I would suggest you watch a video about claying to make sure you do it properly so as to avoid scratching your paint. Really, all you need to do/know is 1) use lots of clay lubricant/quick detailer and 2) always work the clay to a fresh piece as it picks up contanimants/gets dirty. If you drop the clay on the ground throw it away as there are probably rocks embedded (unless you are sure there aren't). I also wash my vehicle weekly to ensure the paint stays reasonably clean and free of debris. Park in a garage if you have one.

 

[20034RunnerV84x2]

I'm not really sure if you're contradicting what I said or if you are adding extra info. Anyway, no, a clay bar will not remove below surface defects as you said. However, if you are waxing your paint from the get-go and regularly wash, clay (once or twice a year or as needed), and wax you should experience minimal defects like oxidation. If you are denying a clay bar works and it didn't improve the appearance of your paint, you didn't do it properly or put enough effort into it.

For those reading this: Claying is an essential part of maintaining the appearance and condition of your vehicle's paint.

I'm just saying it didn't remove the oxidation. Now when I compounded and polished the paint it was all gone along with the Industrial fallout/ rail dust.

I've only owned the truck since Oct. 3rd, 2011 and it was an ex fleet so they didn't ever care for the paint. She's nice and shiny now. The clay bar removed a lot, but not enough to make a noticeable difference except for the feel of the paint.

 

[Whiplash Willy]

The best/easiest way to get rid of that rail dust embedded in your clear, plastic parts, ect is Iron-X.

You spray it on, it dissolves the iron particles, you agitate it with a sponge, then rinse it off. It is way easier then clay, and will get stuff a clay bar won't.

Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination

 

[20034RunnerV84x2]

Or you can do it the easier cheaper way and compound it... :cheers:

 

[JayceeP]

The best/easiest way to get rid of that rail dust embedded in your clear, plastic parts, ect is Iron-X.

You spray it on, it dissolves the iron particles, you agitate it with a sponge, then rinse it off. It is way easier then clay, and will get stuff a clay bar won't.

Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination

I'm intrigued. Some quick googling has sold me. Would this just be something you do before you clay (say, once or twice a year, or as needed) or do you use it more often than that?

Also, when you say agitate with a sponge, what kind of sponge are you using? Could you simply use a microfibre? Just concerned about swirls/scratching.

 

[carzcraz]

I'm intrigued. Some quick googling has sold me. Would this just be something you do before you clay (say, once or twice a year, or as needed) or do you use it more often than that?

Also, when you say agitate with a sponge, what kind of sponge are you using? Could you simply use a microfibre? Just concerned about swirls/scratching.

From my personal experience using Iron X, I 100% recommend it. I was very sceptical at the beginning but after much research on detailing forums, I decided to try it on our vehicles. The end result was unbelievable and worked so well that a second spray on our white colored Lexus was not warranted. From what I've researched, detailers use Iron X before claybaring. I decided to use a damp microfiber cloth vs sponge pad which worked very well. Very very little friction is required with the microfiber cloth. This stuff proved to be extremely effective, fast and easy to use.

If interested, many pictures and details can be found at the link below. This particular detailer comes highly recommend for Opti-Guarding cars here in Calgary. He uses Iron X as one step in his detailing and even takes up close pictures of what little contaminants are actually picked up on the clay bar following use of Iron X...

Search Results - Live2Detail

As I understand it, this stuff is also harmless to your paint, though it has a tendency to react with and potentially discolor your wheel weights..
http://www.cquartz.com/pages.php?page_id=89

Not sure if you are able to purchase Iron X where you are, but I sourced mine through Auto Obsessed who are located in Edmonton..
http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-m-88.html

 

[Whiplash Willy]

I'm intrigued. Some quick googling has sold me. Would this just be something you do before you clay (say, once or twice a year, or as needed) or do you use it more often than that?

Also, when you say agitate with a sponge, what kind of sponge are you using? Could you simply use a microfibre? Just concerned about swirls/scratching.

Its best to use Iron-x Before claying, and it will make the clay bar process much easier. Also, some have completely replaced claying with Iron-X (to take care of the iron contaminants) and Tar-X to get the rest of the organic contaminants. ( Although I would probley still want to clay even after Iron-X and Tar-X, just to be sure all contaminants are gone)

About the Sponge thing...People say it does a better job then a microfiber, but a microfiber may be safer. I just used a Grout sponge I got from Home Depot, and didn't have any problems.

Here is a good read on Iron-x, and comparison between just claying and Iron-x and claying.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/product-reviews/138190-review-carpro-iron-x.html

 

[JayceeP]

From my personal experience using Iron X, I 100% recommend it. I was very sceptical at the beginning but after much research on detailing forums, I decided to try it on our vehicles. The end result was unbelievable and worked......

Its best to use Iron-x Before claying, and it will make the clay bar process much easier. Also, some have completely replaced claying with Iron-X.....

Here is a good read on Iron-x, and comparison between just claying and Iron-x and claying....

Thanks guys- really appreciate the info. Will read up.

 

[JLM3rd]

Rust under the paint on the rear license plate holes. 2015 SR5-P.

 

[BADBEAT]

Rea frame rail/hitch mount bar rusted bad.

Just purchased this $runner in Pensicols 2 weeks ago, found rust all over the backend. The hitch bar part cost 800.00, and needs to be welded in place. The labor is 1200.00. Thank God I got a great price on this rust wagon. Would like to know who else has this issue. More pics in MY GARAGE

 

[wlmuncy]

^^^^ That looks like a 1st or 2nd Generation Tacoma. I have yet to have a rush issue with my Tacoma and hope I never do.

 

[josefmd]

Well that is a reason why I have used Fluid Flim on my Tacoma's in the past and now on my 17 4R. Sprayed my 4R with 2 cans last weekend.