Rust on lower parts 07 4runner should use POR15?
- Thread starter popalzai
- Start date
I was just reading the POR website last night and I don't think they want you to prime, the POR doesn't stick very well to paint or primer. They said the best surface for it to stick to is actually rust. I think you're supposed to take a metal brush to any rusted areas and knock off any loose pieces. You use the Metal Ready on the unrusted surfaces to prepare it for the POR. I guess it's like an etch. My understanding is that the prep work is critical to the success of POR so I plan on going over it again before actually applying.
zerowkul98
New member
Thanks for the reply info!
The "metal-ready", is that a POR product? Or is it some other brand/product line? Sorry. Im new to this.
The "metal-ready", is that a POR product? Or is it some other brand/product line? Sorry. Im new to this.
I use a wire brush. If I were to use sand paper I would say the rougher the better.
This.
Only remove the loose rust. It will stick to a painted surface, but it does not look as well and acts like the surface is not the cleanest. It is best on rust and bare metal.
It is, but it is only used to etch new and unrusted bare metal along with stainless steel and galvanized metal. No need to use it anywhere on your vehicle.
They actually have a starter kit with all the necessary stuff. I bought mine on Amazon because I wasn't sure where to find it locally. My understanding is that you don't want too big of a bottle of POR because the left over stuff degrades over time and won't be as good as a fresh can.
Amazon.com: SUPER STARTER KIT BLACK SEMI-GLOSS: Automotive
charlier180
New member
Glad to see you are reading up on the various POR-15 prep products.
If you have not done so you should check out the Marine Clean product as well.
Having used POR-15 for the last 12 years I can tell you from experience that following the instructions for the various POR-15 products PRECISELY is VERY IMPORTANT. Not doing so GREATLY increases the possibility of being disappointed with the results. I have found that 99% of the time when someone is dissatisfied with how well POR-15 performs it is because they thought they knew better, were too cheap to buy the other POR-15 products for cleaning & prepping properly or they ignored or did not follow the directions as well as they should have.
Before using POR-15 make sure you understand what each of the products is used for. (Prep & Ready, Marine Clean, POR-15, etc.) All of these products and their instructions can be found on the manufacturer's web site at POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks
BTW, I started a new game when I am out shopping and see a 4th Gen 4Runner. I take a quick look at the undercarriage to see what level of rust it has. So far, I am batting 1000 as far as rusty 4Runners go.
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Every other car I owned was a rust bucket underneath. By the time I had gotten to them, eaten up.
My new 4runner (2005) is in remarkably good condition underneath. Since I bought it in PA, I am assuming it was garage house and well taken car off. It does have some lite rusting, to be expected.
I have never considered POR, but I am, before this winter and to keep the under body is nice condition.
Those that have used it, should I take an angle grinder or dremel and remove as much rust as I can before I use it?
My new 4runner (2005) is in remarkably good condition underneath. Since I bought it in PA, I am assuming it was garage house and well taken car off. It does have some lite rusting, to be expected.
I have never considered POR, but I am, before this winter and to keep the under body is nice condition.
Those that have used it, should I take an angle grinder or dremel and remove as much rust as I can before I use it?
If you had rust that was loose or flaking then it should be scraped off and wire brushed. In your case just paint it on.
After you use the Marine Clean and Metal-Ready of course
Nope, you do not use the Metal Ready. That product is for etching NEW metal along with stainless steel or galvanized metal. It does not need to be used on previously painted or rusted metal. I got that direct from the company.
Nice. Thanks! I live in D.C. on the Hill, so no place to do it here, but I am traveling down to TN for a family wedding. I have a house down there that my brother and his wife are staying in and it has a massive full 2 car garage and ample private driveway for me to play around. This will be the last weekend of October, so hopefully right before winter hits.
Is there a temperature range that the air needs to be in? Anyone know a cure time? I have to do a return (600 mile) trip the next day back up to D.C..
Is there a temperature range that the air needs to be in? Anyone know a cure time? I have to do a return (600 mile) trip the next day back up to D.C..
Metal Ready also MUST used on any surface that's been cleaned with Marine Clean prior to application of POR. I'm assuming most people's vehicles will need to be degreased - not that there are gobs of grease everywhere but little bits picked up just by operating a vehicle.
http://www.por15.com/Data Sheets/POR15ApplicationInfo.pdf
"Application should be applied in temperatures of 50-90oF degrees
(10-38oC) and humidity under 80%"
and
"The more humid the area, the faster the drying time, which usually varies from 2 to 5 hours."
zerowkul98
New member
I see this thread hasnt been touched in a couple months, but i thought i'd share my POR15 experience.
I bought the super starter kit, comes with the marine clean, metal-ready and the SMALLEST can of POR15 ive ever seen! Also comes with a foam brush, a traditional hair-style paint brush and a pair of rubber gloves.
I'll say this first...WEAR THE GLOVES THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PROCESS! If they rip or get gross, THEN PUT ON NEW ONES!!! I wore them only for the POR15 application,...and the 2 pre-treat chemicals made my hands feel like they were encased in a layer of plastic! It wore off in a few days, but during this my hands felt like they were super-dry and no matter how much moisturizer i put on, it would do NO GOOD!
I got the kit when i first saw the condition of the cross-beam that is directly underneath the radiator. It was in pretty rough condition, being its an 03 im in a high-salt area in western Mass.
I followed the instructions and applied the pre-treater, washed it off and put on 2 coats of the POR15 on the cross member as well as the skid plate. Came out pretty good. I plan on getting more and doing a 3rd coat before the winter comes.
I bought the super starter kit, comes with the marine clean, metal-ready and the SMALLEST can of POR15 ive ever seen! Also comes with a foam brush, a traditional hair-style paint brush and a pair of rubber gloves.
I'll say this first...WEAR THE GLOVES THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PROCESS! If they rip or get gross, THEN PUT ON NEW ONES!!! I wore them only for the POR15 application,...and the 2 pre-treat chemicals made my hands feel like they were encased in a layer of plastic! It wore off in a few days, but during this my hands felt like they were super-dry and no matter how much moisturizer i put on, it would do NO GOOD!
I got the kit when i first saw the condition of the cross-beam that is directly underneath the radiator. It was in pretty rough condition, being its an 03 im in a high-salt area in western Mass.
I followed the instructions and applied the pre-treater, washed it off and put on 2 coats of the POR15 on the cross member as well as the skid plate. Came out pretty good. I plan on getting more and doing a 3rd coat before the winter comes.
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