Rust preventative testing

I'd love to see something like this with POR15 versus 3M Advanced undercoating and some other options. Maybe even Ecotuff.

Everyone reviews these products right after application, but what really matters is how well they hold up after being sprayed with salt, water and slammed with rocks and debris for a few years. That would be difficult to do a controlled test though.
 
I concur. Maybe it all peeled because I didn't use their Top Coat after everything else. Though it states that it's for bare metal and \ UV protection, I figured I wouldn't get much UV under my rig (unless I rolled it, and then of course I sure wouldn't be thinking about the Por-15 peeling off my undercarriage). Maybe it forms another layer of sealant that's needed.

I would think the UV protection is just for fade resistance. I know a lot of people say the POR15 is washed out anywhere with sun exposure, but cracking and peeling due to UV seems strange. That ridiculous application process is one reason I've never tried it. Always used 3M advanced Undercoating or just spray enamels which eventually chip.
 
What I really want to see is what these look like is 1-2-3 years if you can hold the test that long. Maybe speed it up by spraying them with salt water, soaking them in salt water as well as fresh water, see what happens.


OP: ~ waiting 6 hours before I applied the salt water solution from a spray bottle. Each disc was misted with 2 sprays from the bottle.

Every day at 3:30pm (central) I will apply another 2 sprays of the salt solution to each disc and take a picture of the results.

I'm rooting for the Fluid Film. I've placed my chips on that and Eastwood.
 
Maybe when you're satisfied with the results enter the second stage of the experiment and throw some sand and dust and mud on them, let dry then wash off with a hose and then see which one holds up best.
 
I concur. Maybe it all peeled because I didn't use their Top Coat after everything else. Though it states that it's for bare metal and \ UV protection, I figured I wouldn't get much UV under my rig (unless I rolled it, and then of course I sure wouldn't be thinking about the Por-15 peeling off my undercarriage). Maybe it forms another layer of sealant that's needed.

Did you use their Metal Prep on the bare metal? I used all of their products on my alternator & it's holding up well. Degreaser, metal prep, rust paint & caliper paint. I used a different degreaser & their caliper paint on my calipers & it's peeling.
 
I'm a little concerned about this. As some of us are trail users, the last thing we want is people putting chemicals on the vehicles that might get onto the very nature that we're enjoying. A water crossing and you leave behind an oil slick.

Sorry, not cool.
 
I'm a little concerned about this. As some of us are trail users, the last thing we want is people putting chemicals on the vehicles that might get onto the very nature that we're enjoying. A water crossing and you leave behind an oil slick.

Sorry, not cool.

I get your concern but most people aren't going to be crossing rivers at any point....ever, but they would like to protect their vehicle from it rotting away.

Even if they did, of the three products that are still working (and which I would assuming people would want to use), none of them are classified as toxic.

Fluid film states "non toxic/hazardous".
LPS 2/3 according to their SDS, under environmental hazards it is listed as none/not classified

If people are dumping gallons of used motor oil in their frame, yeah that wouldn't be good. But these tests will hopefully steer people away from using lousy RP products like used oil since they suck at preventing rust.

Does everyone who goes offroad or cross rivers also have absolutely zero leaks of any kind? Is your entire engine bay/vehicle 100% spotless from any oil, coolant, power steering fluid and so on? Doubt it....

I guess no good deeds go unpunished.....:noidea::noidea:
 
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I also noticed that the stuff doesn't seem to stick as well to rusty areas as bare metal. So maybe when you are done take a rusty sample and a clean sample and spray with the lest RP you had, then see if they both hold up or if the rusty one doesn't have as much protection.
 
Day 8

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I work at a metal fab shop with 5 lasers, water jet, press brakes and certified welders. I have an endless supply of metal of all varities.

I am the Quality and Safety Coordinator.

The rounds discs were the "slugs" from a part we were cutting (the inside that gets tossed).
 
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I'm a little concerned about this. As some of us are trail users, the last thing we want is people putting chemicals on the vehicles that might get onto the very nature that we're enjoying. A water crossing and you leave behind an oil slick.

FLUID FILM is manufactured using an intricate heating and blending process, which combines unrefined wool wax with selective polar agents and corrosion inhibitors, creating a unique, lanolin-based formulation that stops existing rust on contact.

Fluid Film is classified as non-toxic and non-hazardous and contains less than one percent VOC content, helping to eliminate the use of ozone-depleting chemicals in the atmosphere. FLUID FILM contains no solvents, phenols, heavy metals, arsenic, pcb’s, pc’s, tcdd’s or other dioxin related substances. It is manufactured using an all natural lanolin base.

In defense of used oil, I have to say it works damn well after a layer of dust gets caked on it.

Same with FF. They advises against pressure washing after applying. Leaving it on and allowing grime to cake up provides a barrier to corrosives. The stuffs been around for 60 years so it must do what it says.
 
In defense of used oil, I have to say it works damn well after a layer of dust gets caked on it.

Yup, that's what old timers have been doing for decades to keep vehicles rust free in the salt belt. That's how WD40 works. It holds holds micro black dust and it doesn't wash off, it even blacks out and neutralizes orange surface rust. Its not oily greasy, just a blackish film coating. Weird, but it works. Won't perform that way on a static bench test though.
 
Day 9

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Of the non rusted samples, the cooking spray has the least amount of rust.
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In defense of used oil, I have to say it works damn well after a layer of dust gets caked on it.

I'm sure there is some truth to that. Just being a barrier of a mix of wd40/oil and dirt would help to keep moisture out.

I've heard a lot of "old timers" saying they used to put used oil inside there frames and inside their door panels. I doubt any dust/dirt really builds up inside a door though.

To be honest, I actually thought the oil would have prevented rust pretty well but it didn't even keep the bare metal rust free for 24 hours?

Maybe I'll stick two more samples under my truck (magnets?) and coat one with WD40 and one with oil to test their effectiveness in real world driving situations.
 
Maybe I'll stick two more samples under my truck (magnets?) and coat one with WD40 and one with oil to test their effectiveness in real world driving situations.

That's a great idea. I would also highly recommend trying the Amsoil HD metal protector. My BMW 330i and 4runner are both SLATHERED in it and it's holding up great after 5-6 months. I have it one a small section of one of my BMW winter wheels and it has not budget even after washing those wheels and wiping (minor scrubbing with wash mitt) 4-5 times over the last 5 months.

From all my testing and experimenting I chose to use mainly Amsoil on my vehicles, but also some FluidFilm AR (much thicker than regular fluid film). I mainly used FF AR on the 4runner frame and Amsoil on areas where I may touch more often so as not to get grease on me or washing products. Oh and I also shot a bunch of Amsoil into all my panels (doors, hood and hatch) as well as all the sills, fenders, etc... basically any hole I found :).

I'm hoping to do something similar to this test next winter and the magnet or even zip tie will be great for leaving stuff on the underside of my 4runner in various locations.
 

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