Rust Proofing the Midwest

[eastsideride]

Hey T4R!

Looking to do a little rust prevention and protection. Being in the midwest, rust is an issue but luckily my frame is actually in pretty decent shape and I think it can last a long time if I help protect it. Curious to know what thoughts are on the subject and some of the products and applications below.

Bear in mind, I live in a apartment and this is my DD. I wish I had my own garage to complete this work in...

So far, I have settled on ordering Eastwood Internal Frame Coating to get that part covered, but the outside is my main question. I had a ton of suggestions to use Fluid Film and it is something I can literally apply anywhere so I wouldn't need a ton of time or a garage. But I really like the idea of POR-15 except that will take a lot of time and I really need a garage or driveway that I can let it sit so I think I need to rule it out for the moment.

One of my thoughts was to have the internal frame coating done and have a local business coat the frame in a petroleum based coating. It appears Z-Tech is the popular product that the locals claim to work really well. The shop I spoke with was going to hit the welds with a needler or a wire brush and then coat. I feel like they would get much better coverage than little ol' me in the apartment parking lot.

Would love to hear thoughts! Thanks!

EDIT: Here is a link to photos https://photos.app.goo.gl/TjvC17hs2bAk9jcf7

 

[absalom]

Fluid Film.

There's a reason you're hearing it so much. It's cheap, environmentally friendly, and incredibly effective.

The nice thing, is that unlike a painted coating, there's nothing for water to get behind. With a painted coating, all it takes is a small opening, and water/salt can drive itself behind the surface and start rusting.

The Fluid Film kit comes with the flexible wands to get in the small nooks and crannies that this truck has.

And just remember to keep your weeping holes in your doors free of debris. Water needs to escape when it gets inside the door.

P.S. Since when did this become an Acura forum?

 

[raKnizek]

+1 on the Fluid Film. Havent tried the eastwood myself but I have heard good things.

I've tried things over the years on different cars and FF is by far the best. Por15 is what you might do if you have a bare frame that you sandblasted and can get into every nook/cranny without any imperfections. One imperfection and water gets behind it and the Por15 locks it in and makes it much worse.

Same deal (if not worse) for those Z tech/z-whatever coatings you see. These coatings are not "breathable" and they lock in moisture and existing rust. There is a reason they make you reapply each year! Not to mention these rubber coatings ruin electrical connectors and fittings under the car.

Just watched a video the other day of a guy pulling the rubber coating back on a ~10 year old truck that had it since basically new (allegedly). It was all rot underneath.

 

[T4R2014]

That's a nice frame for Wisconsin. If you don't have the time and resources to properly prep for painting, then you are just chasing your tail. Go straight to Fluid Film. I recommend takings a pressure washer to the existing holes in the frame to get all the loose debris out of it.

 

[eastsideride]

Fluid Film.

There's a reason you're hearing it so much. It's cheap, environmentally friendly, and incredibly effective.

The nice thing, is that unlike a painted coating, there's nothing for water to get behind. With a painted coating, all it takes is a small opening, and water/salt can drive itself behind the surface and start rusting.

The Fluid Film kit comes with the flexible wands to get in the small nooks and crannies that this truck has.

And just remember to keep your weeping holes in your doors free of debris. Water needs to escape when it gets inside the door.

P.S. Since when did this become an Acura forum?

Cost was certainly a plus that I saw on the FF. And the fact that I could throw the truck anywhere and spray it.

Also I had the Acura only at one point, dont hate on my girl (RIP)

+1 on the Fluid Film. Havent tried the eastwood myself but I have heard good things.

I've tried things over the years on different cars and FF is by far the best. Por15 is what you might do if you have a bare frame that you sandblasted and can get into every nook/cranny without any imperfections. One imperfection and water gets behind it and the Por15 locks it in and makes it much worse.

Same deal (if not worse) for those Z tech/z-whatever coatings you see. These coatings are not "breathable" and they lock in moisture and existing rust. There is a reason they make you reapply each year! Not to mention these rubber coatings ruin electrical connectors and fittings under the car.

Just watched a video the other day of a guy pulling the rubber coating back on a ~10 year old truck that had it since basically new (allegedly). It was all rot underneath.

That was my fear, pulling it back to reveal the rot etc. Makes me wonder though, why supply this, and why does everyone sell or apply it? I heard good things about Ziebart and Krown too for businesses, but I think they utilize the same thing, not 100% sure though

 

[eastsideride]

That's a nice frame for Wisconsin. If you don't have the time and resources to properly prep for painting, then you are just chasing your tail. Go straight to Fluid Film. I recommend takings a pressure washer to the existing holes in the frame to get all the loose debris out of it.

I can agree with that from painting in the past. Prep is key for best adhesion. I feel like I want to do POR-15 everywhere but I think I would want to remove everything from the body and frame to do it right, i.e sandblasting etc. But this is a job for someone who has time and a garage, which I have another year on my apt lease...

 

[thegipper]

I can agree with that from painting in the past. Prep is key for best adhesion. I feel like I want to do POR-15 everywhere but I think I would want to remove everything from the body and frame to do it right, i.e sandblasting etc. But this is a job for someone who has time and a garage, which I have another year on my apt lease...

Your frame is in great shape for Wisconsin, no need to completely recoat it. Knock off the loose rust, frame paint the spots that need it, coat the inside with Eastwood stuff and spray underside with FF/LPS 3 or whatever rust preventative you want.

I like to apply LPS 3 twice a year which is way more than enough. It "dries" into a semi soft wax like film. Fluid film stays oily which I didn't really care for.

 

[DreadPirateJon]

I'm redoing a frame and planning on Eastwood internal inside and after knocking all the rust off the outside doing Eastwood rust encapsulator on the outside.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[absalom]

Your frame is in great shape for Wisconsin, no need to completely recoat it. Knock off the loose rust, frame paint the spots that need it, coat the inside with Eastwood stuff and spray underside with FF/LPS 3 or whatever rust preventative you want.

I like to apply LPS 3 twice a year which is way more than enough. It "dries" into a semi soft wax like film. Fluid film stays oily which I didn't really care for.

The oily texture actually serves a purpose tho. First, it flows to fill new cavities that the installer may have missed, even long after install. It also resists shedding very well due to this texture.

It also smells delicious.

I'm super biased, as I'm a massive fan of any Lanolin-based product. Looking at you Bag Balm

 

[eastsideride]

I'm really thinking about the Fluid Film harder than I was entering this thread.

I see most people prefer the air sprayers for a more even coating and better reach. How are the non air application methods for coverage?

If I got a compressor small enough I could wheel out (I'm on the first floor FTW) it would be nice, but I would probably piss off the people in the building unless I took the compressor with me to a spot that had electrical hookups

Your frame is in great shape for Wisconsin, no need to completely recoat it.

Thanks! I got lucky on this one TBH. Bought in Chicago. I'll definitely take a wire brush to it before applying.

Think it is worth doing that and applying a paint or something before FF?

 

[Kmurt]

Frame looks to be in good shape, so that's a good start. Don't overthink this too much but also don't think that this is a "one and done" type situation. If you drive your vehicle in the winter where salt is put down, you're going to have to keep up on the rust.

Here is what I've been doing:

1. Wire wheel loose/surface rust to bare metal
2. Clean spots with parts cleaner and rag.
3. Primer
4. Paint (lots of opinions here on what paint to use, do some research)
5. Fluid Film

 

[MN4runnerman]

Here is what I've been doing:

1. Wire wheel loose/surface rust to bare metal
2. Clean spots with parts cleaner and rag.
3. Primer
4. Paint (lots of opinions here on what paint to use, do some research)
5. Fluid Film

No need for primer if you’re using chassis saver/POR15. Those paints require bare metal/rusty surface for proper adhesion.

I buy a gallon of Fluid Film every year because I do multiple vehicles and I have an undercoating gun with empty bottle. I love using this stuff

 

[TheDurk]

No need for primer if you’re using chassis saver/POR15. Those paints require bare metal/rusty surface for proper adhesion.

I buy a gallon of Fluid Film every year because I do multiple vehicles and I have an undercoating gun with empty bottle. I love using this stuff

That said, POR15 requires a top coat.

If anybody wants to see what a POR15 job looks like after two years, look at the end of the thread in my sig.

 

[MN4runnerman]

That said, POR15 requires a top coat.

If anybody wants to see what a POR15 job looks like after two years, look at the end of the thread in my sig.

Chassis saver also requires a topcoat according to their website. Also according to their website is that; while it may fade from UV rays it does not degrade its rustproofing properties, but take that with a grain of salt(lol isn’t that what we’re fighting)

 

[Mark_BC]

I was doing internet searches and I found quite a few reports of FF not lasting in locations where it gets blasted from road spray. Inside the frame would probably be better since it is protected there.

POR-15 is only going to stick on rusted or sandblasted areas so that means it won't stick to your painted surfaces.

I found great internet reviews for Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. So I put some on my frame cross member and I like it so far. I removed all the scale and cleaned with the POR degreaser. Then washed off with water and methanol and allowed to dry. Then a day after applying that I sprayed on Rustoleum black rim paint as a more chip resistant top coat. I like using regular paints that will bubble go crusty and fall off if they start rusting underneath. As you say, I don't like the coatings that hide rust underneath.

If I were you I would do that: wire wheel off the scale from the welds and rusty spots, and apply POR degreaser and Metal Prep, then Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then spray with a black top coat. Inside the frame do the same but use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating instead. The only problem with this is you need decent weather and temperatures which you don't have now. So maybe just spray FF on it and do the painting next year. The complication with doing this is that getting the FF out of the frame will be difficult. You'll have to use the POR degreaser and I'm not sure how well of a job it will do cleaning that off. If not, you will be stuck to forever using FF inside your frame.

I would drill another drain hole in the bottom of your frame, a few inches in front of the lower control arm bracket. I believe there is already one on one side, so add another on the other side. I also enlarged all the existing holes (except the threaded ones obviously) to allow my finger to fit in to feel what's going on and let bigger rust flakes out. I now regularly take the hose to the inside of the frame.

 

[kolelt]

Por-15 and fluid film are completely two different things. So please don’t confuse these products. Por-15 can be laid over clean metal. But YOU MUST USE THEIR CHEMICAL PREP PRODUCTS ALONG WITH THEIR INSTRUCTIONS. Which involves air drying and rinsing with water. It also CURES UNDER HUNIDTY! Fluid film is a good product. 3-6 months if you lay a nice thick coat. It will protect against salt. I live in NJ and it has kept my truck pretty clean under theee. Inside the frame and body cavities. I used EASTWOOD heavy duty grease. It is like FF but thinner and lays down like glue. Got it on my hands and it was very hard to get it of! So that says something.

Avoid over spraying inside rocker panels. It will clog the pinch weld drain holes. And your rockers will flood with water if you have a sun roof.

This topic has been talked about and covered thousands of times here.

 

[T4R2014]

Por-15 and fluid film are completely two different things. So please don’t confuse these products. Por-15 can be laid over clean metal. But YOU MUST USE THEIR CHEMICAL PREP PRODUCTS ALONG WITH THEIR INSTRUCTIONS. Which involves air drying and rinsing with water. It also CURES UNDER HUNIDTY! Fluid film is a good product. 3-6 months if you lay a nice thick coat. It will protect against salt. I live in NJ and it has kept my truck pretty clean under theee. Inside the frame and body cavities. I used EASTWOOD heavy duty grease. It is like FF but thinner and lays down like glue. Got it on my hands and it was very hard to get it of! So that says something.

Avoid over spraying inside rocker panels. It will clog the pinch weld drain holes. And your rockers will flood with water if you have a sun roof.

This topic has been talked about and covered thousands of times here.

Avoid spraying the rockers with FF? Interesting. Maybe the use of a thinner oil like fogging oil would be better. Those holes will clog up with their own rust flakes if you do nothing anyway.

 

[TheDurk]

I was doing internet searches and I found quite a few reports of FF not lasting in locations where it gets blasted from road spray. Inside the frame would probably be better since it is protected there.

POR-15 is only going to stick on rusted or sandblasted areas so that means it won't stick to your painted surfaces.

I found great internet reviews for Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. So I put some on my frame cross member and I like it so far. I removed all the scale and cleaned with the POR degreaser. Then washed off with water and methanol and allowed to dry. Then a day after applying that I sprayed on Rustoleum black rim paint as a more chip resistant top coat. I like using regular paints that will bubble go crusty and fall off if they start rusting underneath. As you say, I don't like the coatings that hide rust underneath.

If I were you I would do that: wire wheel off the scale from the welds and rusty spots, and apply POR degreaser and Metal Prep, then Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then spray with a black top coat. Inside the frame do the same but use Eastwood Internal Frame Coating instead. The only problem with this is you need decent weather and temperatures which you don't have now. So maybe just spray FF on it and do the painting next year. The complication with doing this is that getting the FF out of the frame will be difficult. You'll have to use the POR degreaser and I'm not sure how well of a job it will do cleaning that off. If not, you will be stuck to forever using FF inside your frame.

I would drill another drain hole in the bottom of your frame, a few inches in front of the lower control arm bracket. I believe there is already one on one side, so add another on the other side. I also enlarged all the existing holes (except the threaded ones obviously) to allow my finger to fit in to feel what's going on and let bigger rust flakes out. I now regularly take the hose to the inside of the frame.

That's not true. See the pics at the end of the thread in my sig. It sticks to paint just fine, if it is solid, and then cleaned and degreased.

 

[kolelt]

Avoid spraying the rockers with FF? Interesting. Maybe the use of a thinner oil like fogging oil would be better. Those holes will clog up with their own rust flakes if you do nothing anyway.

It really. I know this because I treated mine with FF. Then one day I was messing around. Pulled back the trim and saw water sitting. Had to go through the pinch holes and move the FF out of the way.

 

[eastsideride]

It really. I know this because I treated mine with FF. Then one day I was messing around. Pulled back the trim and saw water sitting. Had to go through the pinch holes and move the FF out of the way.

Good to know! I think I will go the FF route this time, but next summer I will try to set the truck up to give it a full coating of POR-15 (after doing the proper prep work of course...).

I may try to bring it into the lower garage and do some small POR-15 work on some parts before applying FF. Temp in the garage is perfect and just having it sit on front jacks would be fine. People can look at it as they pull in :naughty: