Rust-Resistant Suspension/Armor

[MSRP.]

Hi folks,

Obviously, there are a tonne of threads that ask "if I partake in __________ often with my rig, what setup will be best".

Did you install a particular mod, that did NOT turn out to be suitable for the rust-belt? I would imagine that most things that rust, would be on the suspension side of things, and maybe the odd armor piece.

My question: is there a particular coilover/spring+shock setup that is more resilient to rust to replace my 2003 XREAS and RAS?

I saw an Icon Billet UCA and Bilstein 6112/5160 w/ Icon 2" spring for sale on the FJ forums, and thought that's probably one of the safer bets.. or a lower cost option to be the OME setups available.

http://imgur.com/mr3dZDw
http://imgur.com/zbDC7rj

Penny for your thoughts.

 

[flipflopnfly]

I think if you use anti seize when you install suspension components over the long run you'll be pleased. You can also replace some hardware with stainless steel hardware. Most armor manufacturers have a stainless steel hardware option, then use anti seize for the install.

Anything that keeps moisture out be it anti seize, brake grease, white grease, silicone, dielectric, use it.

 

[Silver4RunnerIS300]

Clean often and apply fluid film to all your hardware after cleaning. Wipe your struts with hydraulic fluid and fully articulate your shocks if you haven't in a while.

Just remember it's not the water that causes corrosion... it's the electrolytes on the surface of a metal.

Aluminum might last but will still pit/corrode if not cleaned regularly. Aluminum corrodes white/grey. Bare aluminum can still be coated by powder or paint but requires specific surface treatment.

If you really want to prevent corrosion the best course of action to take is treat and powder the Billet UCAs. Clean regularly while maintaining fluid film on all hardware. Also be aware of opposite metals coming in contact. There are ways to install hardware (IE steel on aluminum) with a barrier between the two.