Rusted Frame - Options

[andrewells134]

Sadly my 200o 4 runner looks the same way underneath in the same spot. I am angry as can be, because my ride has 418,000 miles its the best ride I have ever had. I also have a Lexus ES350. I purchased a new combo welder from Eastwood Company I am jacking it up in the morning and starting with brushing off all the loose rust then spraying everything with this rust treatment Eastwood sells it has so sit on the metal for at least 30 minutes without drying. Then its mig welding everything under that truck with 2x2 and 2x3 by 1/8 and 1/4 angle iron. it's really bad I am scared to drive it but its been the most reliable truck I have ever owned. I can't give it to my grandson until I deal with the rust. Its 20 yrs old never had an A/C charge it will still blow you out of there, look new under the hood. Now I am afraid to buy a new one? I wonder if this is effecting they Lexus Suv's as well? My daughter drives an Rx350. Toyota needs to tell the world what they have done to resolve these issues moving forward. This is bad news I will take before and after pics wish me luck

 

[Mark_BC]

Don't put the Eastwood on until you have finished welding.

 

[Ron Burgandy]

I just finished fixing mine, PO was gonna bring it to the junkyard. should last for years now.

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[brillo_76]

I just finished fixing mine, PO was gonna bring it to the junkyard. should last for years now.

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That will provided you put a good rust inhibitor inside the frame before seal up. Good job by removing all the frame holes you have less chance of salt etc. Getting in and rusting it out.

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[Ron Burgandy]

That will provided you put a good rust inhibitor inside the frame before seal up. Good job by removing all the frame holes you have less chance of salt etc. Getting in and rusting it out.

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I painted the inside but pretty sure the welding exposed some of it again. I plan on installing some perforated hose that runs throughout the entire frame that will live there, shoot some sort of oil based product through it a couple times a year and it shouldn’t give me any issues.


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[brillo_76]

I painted the inside but pretty sure the welding exposed some of it again. I plan on installing some perforated hose that runs throughout the entire frame that will live there, shoot some sort of oil based product through it a couple times a year and it shouldn’t give me any issues.


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Oh you current setup will last you many years. I am just in the rust belt and when I fix frames i coat the inside with FF while sealing up. As some paint burns off welding shut. The sweating hose idea etc is excellent. I just fix areas and super coat the inside when done. I figure. With good steel and rust inhibitors fluids inside a sealed frame it will last even longer.

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[Bossman15]

I'm the OP and saw that this thread was still going - appreciate the help.

I ended up getting the rust fixed by a welder at an auto restoration shop - it cost $1200 to fix all of it plus new struts, I think the welding-only would have been $900. This is in a very high cost-of-living area (outside DC) so I am guessing cheaper in 99% of the U.S.

It had failed VA state inspection this time but passed after the welding. The welder had done it before and said he thought it would outlive the engine...which may be a challenge since it only has 170k miles. Hopefully another 3-5 years out of it!

 

[sleepydad]

Looking into buying this 2008 4wd runner with 140,000 miles (priced at $12k). Interior is spotless and there is barely even a scratch on the outside. The only con is this car is from Pennsylvania and the car is rusted. These pictures aren't great, but does this look like I might be able to drive this vehicle for 4+ years or will the rust be too much of a hassle in the long run.

(Just realized this is a 3rd gen form, but any help at all would be appreciated)

I'm in MN. we are prime salt belt, you will not see any cars/trucks here older than 20 years. Yes some people have special cars/trucks and we only drive them in the summer.

I would pass for that kind of money you should be able to find a pretty rust free truck. it's not super bad rust and you could fluid film it each year and it would be ok. To me that kind of rust is not serviceable, all the nuts bolts need to be cut off and replaced if you have any maintenance.

 

[brillo_76]

I'm the OP and saw that this thread was still going - appreciate the help.



I ended up getting the rust fixed by a welder at an auto restoration shop - it cost $1200 to fix all of it plus new struts, I think the welding-only would have been $900. This is in a very high cost-of-living area (outside DC) so I am guessing cheaper in 99% of the U.S.



It had failed VA state inspection this time but passed after the welding. The welder had done it before and said he thought it would outlive the engine...which may be a challenge since it only has 170k miles. Hopefully another 3-5 years out of it!

All I do is play with rusted 3rd gen as a hobby.

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[Mattc551]

I am a welder and have done frame repair like this on a buddy’s Jeep frame that cracked in a very similar spot. If you can find a welder to help you, I would recommend cutting out a cardboard stencil and then tracing it into some 3/8” or 1/4” steel plating and welding it over the effected area. Most importantly remove all of the rust from the area and then paint after it is repaired so it won’t continue in the future.

 

[brillo_76]

I am a welder and have done frame repair like this on a buddy’s Jeep frame that cracked in a very similar spot. If you can find a welder to help you, I would recommend cutting out a cardboard stencil and then tracing it into some 3/8” or 1/4” steel plating and welding it over the effected area. Most importantly remove all of the rust from the area and then paint after it is repaired so it won’t continue in the future.

Excellent advice. They also make kits that have the steel precut for you to weld over. I just create my own and changed methods over the years.

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