Rusted Rear Control Arm Driver's Side - Any chance of repair?
- Thread starter donkeyhoatie
- Start date
T4R2014
Elite Member
oh great I just noticed that the OP's signature....
OP was a quitter. Are you? There has to be a place near you that can do this. Start asking some body shops.
I know this post was a little while ago but wanted to share:
This is my drivers side, happened about a month ago. Not sure if it's repairable or not. So any help/info for my 2001 is appreciated.
I had same thing happen to my 2001. I am not a welder but know a few and found one willing to attempt a fix. They dropped tank and then we're able to re-weld the mount back on to the frame. They then reinforced the bracket to ensure strength. It's been 3 months since then and no problems thus far.
Hopefully you have already found a solution but wanted to mention that welding it back on is working for me.
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SpidermanGeek
New member
Up here in Ontario Canada, your average Mazda 3 will typically begin to show rust/rot in less than 5 years on the road.
I owned 2 Chevy Cavaliers that had perforation issues in under ten years. One of those Cavaliers was bought brand new from the dealer with Factory Rust Proofing (the gunky kind, not the gimmicky electric box thingy).
VW Golfs are also notorious for perforation issues within 10 years.
Dodge Rams? Forget it. Rotted out wheel wells and rocker panels within 7 years.
Unless car manufacturers start going the Delorean route, rust will always be an issue in places like this.
My 4runner is "rusty", but the frame is still solid. To me that's pretty good considering it's about to turn 20 years old and has never been rust proofed.
Also, my Toyota Matrix is 6 years old now and doesn't have a spot of rust on it (I get it Rust Checked every year in the fall)... but, I have also yet to see a Matrix/Vibe of any year on the road to be "rusted out". Not sure what material Toyota used for those, but it seems to be working. If I'm not mistaken, they were also mostly all assembled here in Ontario.
aag713
New member
I put the Rig up on offer-up, disclosed the issue and it sold within 4hrs for more than I would have expected. Now I have a 4th gen V8 limited did the fj/bilstein swap at 1.75 and couldn't be happier. I did however report the issues to Toyota and the NHTSA so that it is on record. Doubt Toyota will do anything like for previous Sequoia's and Tacoma's with same frame issues.
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Scramble
New member
I guess he was a quitter...
I know it is an old thread but I hoping someone can help, Just failed inspection in VA because of this rust damage, Inspector said the only solution is a new Frame replacement (Yeah Right!) This is the only area of the Frame that is rusted out badly, the rest is pretty solid with some minor surface rust (not a single hole anywhere else in the entire frame except this one....)
Can this be repaired!? Note how the only damage is in the welded area of the Frame and the mount and about 2 inch x 1/2 inch in the actual frame!
Looks to me that this is a simple weld job. Please advise.
Truck is 2002 4Runner
Original Owner
runs great @ 270K (at least 50% of it Highway mileage with 500+ Miles trips)
Thanks for anyone willing to help out!
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes. You can fabricate the replacement steel and weld it in. Or you can buy slide on panels that you remove that bracket and weld on over the original frame.I know it is an old thread but I hoping someone can help, Just failed inspection in VA because of this rust damage, Inspector said the only solution is a new Frame replacement (Yeah Right!) This is the only area of the Frame that is rusted out badly, the rest is pretty solid with some minor surface rust (not a single hole anywhere else in the entire frame except this one....)
Can this be repaired!? Note how the only damage is in the welded area of the Frame and the mount and about 2 inch x 1/2 inch in the actual frame!
Looks to me that this is a simple weld job. Please advise.
Truck is 2002 4Runner
Original Owner
runs great @ 270K (at least 50% of it High mileage with 500+ Miles trips)
Thanks for anyone willing to help out!
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
2001 Limited 285K
Member
I had the same problem here. Failed inspection due to frame rot. Mine was on the passenger side, near the muffler. The heat, apparently accelerates the rust. Anywho, I was able to get it fixed with this:
SafeTCap Mid-Rear Frame Section (ART-218-R) Passenger Side
Mid-Rear Frame Section (ART-218-R) Passenger Side - autorust.com
If I recall, the labor for the installation of the SafeTCap and the post-install inspection totaled around $950. There's a list of SafeTCap installers on the autorust.com website. I used Advanced Automotive in Chantilly for the install. They did a good job as far as I can tell after 6 months.
SafeTCap Mid-Rear Frame Section (ART-218-R) Passenger Side
Mid-Rear Frame Section (ART-218-R) Passenger Side - autorust.com
If I recall, the labor for the installation of the SafeTCap and the post-install inspection totaled around $950. There's a list of SafeTCap installers on the autorust.com website. I used Advanced Automotive in Chantilly for the install. They did a good job as far as I can tell after 6 months.
Man!
I am literally following your foot steps, I live in the DC Area too, seems like your issue was identical to mine (Mine is a Passenger side not as the title of the Thread says! I guess it is exactly as you said the Muffler heat does a good job rusting this side, The driver side joint near the Gas Tank looks solid and does not have any of this awful corrosion!), funny enough this morning, I was just looking at this Kit as a solution and the same Place in Chantilly "ADVANCED AUTOMOTIVE" for installation :lol:...
It has been an expensive month for me already, I did some repairs due to EVAP code, dropped the Tank and installed new check valve, hoses and Canister and finally my EVAP problem is gone and the Truck gave me System ready after 400 Miles of driving around. and luckily enough today, I went to another inspection station and I was able to get it inspected for Safety and Emission, I guess I got really lucky today and the guy did not see it because as you already know it is hidden behind the Muffler so you really need to look very close to notice it, so the pressure is off for at least a year for me at this point, but I want to fix it eventually so I can have a peace of mind.
So I am looking at about 1200.00 to get it done I suppose? I guess I can call these guys and go to the shop for an official quote now that I have a good reference price point from you!
But honestly, this is a little bit on the high side for me :frusty:, is there any possibly cheaper solution that will make me pass the next year inspection with confidence? :help: Thanks so much for sharing your experience!
I am literally following your foot steps, I live in the DC Area too, seems like your issue was identical to mine (Mine is a Passenger side not as the title of the Thread says! I guess it is exactly as you said the Muffler heat does a good job rusting this side, The driver side joint near the Gas Tank looks solid and does not have any of this awful corrosion!), funny enough this morning, I was just looking at this Kit as a solution and the same Place in Chantilly "ADVANCED AUTOMOTIVE" for installation :lol:...
It has been an expensive month for me already, I did some repairs due to EVAP code, dropped the Tank and installed new check valve, hoses and Canister and finally my EVAP problem is gone and the Truck gave me System ready after 400 Miles of driving around. and luckily enough today, I went to another inspection station and I was able to get it inspected for Safety and Emission, I guess I got really lucky today and the guy did not see it because as you already know it is hidden behind the Muffler so you really need to look very close to notice it, so the pressure is off for at least a year for me at this point, but I want to fix it eventually so I can have a peace of mind.
So I am looking at about 1200.00 to get it done I suppose? I guess I can call these guys and go to the shop for an official quote now that I have a good reference price point from you!
But honestly, this is a little bit on the high side for me :frusty:, is there any possibly cheaper solution that will make me pass the next year inspection with confidence? :help: Thanks so much for sharing your experience!
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brillo_76
Elite Member
You can read my build thread as I show how to rebuld the frames without the auto rust panels.
Your arch were the control arm brackets are will be rotted out.
It's best to get some good metal on the inside or your frame at that spot. Weld it into place then weld it to the bracket.
I use 1/8 steel in my fixes. As these frames rust from the inside out.
Your inner frame is slightly thinner then the outer C. So on your control arm brackets will need to be reinforced on both sides. If you want to keep that bracket in place.
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Your arch were the control arm brackets are will be rotted out.
It's best to get some good metal on the inside or your frame at that spot. Weld it into place then weld it to the bracket.
I use 1/8 steel in my fixes. As these frames rust from the inside out.
Your inner frame is slightly thinner then the outer C. So on your control arm brackets will need to be reinforced on both sides. If you want to keep that bracket in place.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
My Build and Repair thread shows welding that LCR repair sleeve on the drivers side.
I did it myself.
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I did it myself.
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2001 Limited 285K
Member
So the actual install labor was only $912 at that shop. The part was about $220 or so delivered. I had searched around for someone to do a simple patch weld on the frame itself but no shop was willing to do it. I assume they saw it as a liability issue. I also took it to a dealer (Jack Taylor) who took a look at the frame rot and rated the vehicle as "unsafe to drive." And I don't think my frame rot was anywhere near as bad as yours is.
IMO, I wouldn't wait a year to get yours fixed. It could be a serious safety hazard on the Beltway or the interstates.
brillo_76
Elite Member
You can plate the outside if you know how to weld. Those brackets are only welded in a few spots and you can see by looking at it.
The issue is that if you see a hole above the control arm bracket. The entire bottom of the frame is most likely gone.
This is why the made these kits.
However, a crap fix of a gob patch isnt going to fix this.
That control arm bracket is about ready to come off unless its repaired.
This is why it didnt pass. The safety inspection fail because the frame is no longer safe until its repaired..
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The issue is that if you see a hole above the control arm bracket. The entire bottom of the frame is most likely gone.
This is why the made these kits.
However, a crap fix of a gob patch isnt going to fix this.
That control arm bracket is about ready to come off unless its repaired.
This is why it didnt pass. The safety inspection fail because the frame is no longer safe until its repaired..
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Devbot
New member
At that point I'd buy a cheap welder and do it myself!
brillo_76
Elite Member
Exactly Devbot. The only way to eliminate that cost is to do it yourself.
If a person cant weld. Then they are going to have to pay someone to weld it for them.
Or sale the rig or junk it. That's about the only options unless the owner does a frame swap that's about it.
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RandyBobandy
New member
If you are capable of dropping the tank I’m sure you can get yourself a cheap welder and put enough booger welds on there to pass inspection. Passenger side isn’t that hard if you can get the exhaust off, easy to get to
Otherwise I’d give you like $100 for it, I’ll come get it tomorrow
19963.4lsr5
New member
Here is the test fit. Copied from my thread.
If you never welded with a mig before buying a cheep welder and doing it yourself is not what I would do on a critical suspension component.
I’ve seen people weld their roll cage with a cheep welder and the welds looked great but the weld had no penetration. And we ripped the cage apart with our hands.
My MillerMatic 130a on heat 4 was enough. I used solid core and shield gas.
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Thank you guys for all your input, I stumbled on a You Tube Clip for a shop doing exactly that fix (How to easily Repair your 4runners's rusted Frame yourself - YouTube)
and quoting about 300ish dollars (in the comments below the clip),
That sounds like a good option for me and it looks like it is a top quality job well done. The guy is located in Virginia waiting for him to reply so I can get it done.
Does anyone has a decent shop around DC Area who I can go to?
I don't mind driving 1-2 hours each way to get it done.
It terms of safety concern, I totally understand and I will not be driving until I fix it for sure.
and quoting about 300ish dollars (in the comments below the clip),
That sounds like a good option for me and it looks like it is a top quality job well done. The guy is located in Virginia waiting for him to reply so I can get it done.
Does anyone has a decent shop around DC Area who I can go to?
I don't mind driving 1-2 hours each way to get it done.
It terms of safety concern, I totally understand and I will not be driving until I fix it for sure.
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