Rustoleum Rust Reformer?

[Antman]

Anybody have any experience with this stuff?

I've used rust reformers before- in fact I have a few different containers in the garage- but, this stuff is different. What I've used in the past is milky white and turns the rust black after a few minutes. Then you paint over it. This stuff is black already and blends in with the undercarriage perfectly.

Anyway, if you look under your 'Runner I guarantee you will see rust forming at all the weld beads on the frame. I know it's surface rust and not that big of a deal, but it bothers me. I forgot to take "before pics", so I found a spot that I missed (it isn't nearly as bad as some of the others:

The spots I lightly hit with some steel wool and painted, and one in the process of being painted:

What's everyone's take on this stuff? Waste of time? Only took 20 minutes or so anyway and cost a few bucks.

I'll report back on how it's holding up...

 

[CraigRoberts]

Last summer I sprayed a ton of it all over the underbody wherever rust was forming. I also hope it helps...

 

[Lebengeek]

View attachment 85493

I use LPS products for corrosion. good enough for Aviation in salt environments, Good enough for my frame. leaves a tan residue but I don't mind that compared to rust. Its pricey, has the good old California health warnings, but works great. :thumb3: I use the LPS Procyon version.

 

[flyrv9]

I use regular Rustoleum paint on the underside of my mower deck every year after scraping and it seems to help. The deck is 16 years old now. I've also tried the rust reversal through electrolysis process for parts you can submerge in a tank; but not this new stuff. I guess you could also use some of the rust inhibiting etching primers too.

 

[T4R2014]

View attachment 85487

I use LPS products for corrosion. good enough for Aviation in salt environments, Good enough for my frame. leaves a tan residue but I don't mind that compared to rust. Its pricey, has the good old California health warnings, but works great. :thumb3:

Where do you buy it?

 

[Lebengeek]

Where do you buy it?

I bought my last few cans from an aviation supplier called skygeek. usually companies only sell it by the case. I looked and Skygeek didn't have the cans at the moment. I'll see if I can track it down for you. I get the LPS Procyon.

 

[flyrv9]

You can get LPS products at Grainger.

 

[JohnnyT]

You can get it on Amazion for $8-10 per can. I plan to try it.

On surfaces that get hot like the tailpipe and muffler I plan to try Rustoleum High Heat.

 

[carzcraz]

I spent many, many hours researching rust converting paint and decided to go with Por15 and Krown (undercoating) overtop.

Por15 is expensive stuff but is holding up extremely well after a winter of snow, gravel and tons of salt sprayed on our Calgary roads. You just have to be extremely careful not to apply this stuff overtop parts that may require removal as when the paint hardens, it becomes extremely difficult to remove. The only downside I've come across with the application is that the instructions have to be followed to a T to ensure maximum adhesion. This stuff is also ultra-violet sensitive and will require a topcoat if used in areas that have sun exposure.

There is plenty of write-up and reviews on this stuff off the internet. Many have even used this stuff for vehicle restorations to coat fuel tanks etc.

 

[ZO6_Vette]

LPS#3 is like cosmoline it is great to spray say a rifle or the inside of an engine block, parts and tools if you want to store them.
LPS#3 dries to a wax like consistency and has many uses, but I would never use it under my car as everything would stick to it.

 

[Lebengeek]

LPS#3 is like cosmoline it is great to spray say a rifle or the inside of an engine block, parts and tools if you want to store them.
LPS#3 dries to a wax like consistency and has many uses, but I would never use it under my car as everything would stick to it.

Good call ZO6. I use the LPS Procyon which cures harder than the #3.

 

[eddiebx]

I just went outside and took a look at a really rusted Curt hitch I painted last year. Just to give you an idea, the hitch was ~6 yrs old and there was so much rust on it that the powder coat completely peeled off in some sections. I didn't really do much prep work, just took a wire brush to it and knocked off all the loose rust and hit it with the rustoleum reformer and then followed by some spray on rustoleum bedliner. And well I have to say, I am pretty impressed! I see only the tiniest bit of rust forming on areas where the repair job meets the original powder coating and the hitch has been out all winter long.

 

[Ukie]

Looks like it's a "rust-cleaning" time. Have a can of Boeshield T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection sitting on a shelf. May give it a shot.

 

[2012sr5]

Lots of searching, came up with some info

Ok, I want to use Rust Reformer on a spot on the paint job of my 4R. I've used it on the hitch receiver and the frame. I'm pretty impressed with it. It reacts with iron oxide (rust) to create iron tannate, which is black and inert.

BUT, Rustoleum's FAQ page says to not paint over it with water-based paint. According to my searching, Toyota's Black 202 is "waterborne" paint. So then, I looked at Corroseal, because it does the same thing and is water-based. The Corroseal FAQ page says it can be used with water-based coatings not subject to tannin staining. It also says water-based coatings may require an oil-based blocker in between.

That got me thinking...

My 4Runner is black.
My Rust reformer is black.
The iron tannate left when this stuff is used is black.

...I don't think I need an oil-based stain blocker to keep the black touched up area from tannin staining. Maybe I would if my truck weren't black.

I'll apply two coats with a Q-tip and then touch up with a Toyota Black 202 pen and report back. :cheers:

Here are a couple of pics: