RUSTY axle is dripping HELP!

[MTDewX8]

Ok, I just bought my first 4runner.

was poking around down under it and was scarping some what I thought was mud and grim, and poked a big flake off and then it sudenly started to leak.

so the housing is SHOT.

anybody know where a good place to get a new housing or full axle?

it has the E-locker so my question is the housing different? or can I just get a regular housing and swap parts?

what gets me is the rig only has 117k miles. how the heck can it rust that fast. :rant:

 

[rjaudi]

The housing is different. You can try to get a elocker axle from a junk yard and then sell your third member to someone who would want the elocker. I just picked huge flakes off my axle and have no idea how mine didnt go through. Where was your hole? I think it would be good to start to get a report of where the holes are forming.

 

[JohnsD90]

Ok, I just bought my first 4runner.

was poking around down under it and was scarping some what I thought was mud and grim, and poked a big flake off and then it sudenly started to leak.

so the housing is SHOT.

anybody know where a good place to get a new housing or full axle?

it has the E-locker so my question is the housing different? or can I just get a regular housing and swap parts?

what gets me is the rig only has 117k miles. how the heck can it rust that fast. :rant:

Miles means nothing for rust, if you leave a brand new truck parked outside above grass and such for extended periods of time, it will rust, as does living close to the ocean or near salt. But you truck is 9-15 years old that is plenty of time for the axle case to rust through.

 

[Nelsonmd]

Ok, I just bought my first 4runner.

was poking around down under it and was scarping some what I thought was mud and grim, and poked a big flake off and then it sudenly started to leak.

so the housing is SHOT.

anybody know where a good place to get a new housing or full axle?

it has the E-locker so my question is the housing different? or can I just get a regular housing and swap parts?

what gets me is the rig only has 117k miles. how the heck can it rust that fast. :rant:

Welcome to the club... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/74129-nelsonmds-build-thread.html

Yeah, salvage yards are your best best if you are on a budget. I got mine from a guy on here parting out a 4R with a locker and the same gear ratio (be sure to verify your gear ratio!!!), so once we figured out affordable shipping (I ended up with a craigslist rideshare), I was able to get an entire rear axle assembly. Start looking and good luck.

In the meantime, you can plug the holes with JB weld if they aren't too big. Clean the rust off that whole pumpkin area (carefully), take some pictures, then apply JB weld. I used the putty to prevent any from dripping inside and getting into the diff. It probably didn't bond as well as the regular stuff, but it seemed to work. I would probably try to regular JB weld if I had to do it again. You will have to drain the diff for this so that you don't have oil draining out the hole while trying to apply the JB weld.

Then be sure to paint it with something good to prevent further rust. I drove it like that for a couple months while I looked for an axle.

You will need to know your gear ratio, wheel size, and if you have ABS for yards to look it up.

 

[MTDewX8]

I found one for $350 complete, so I am going to just swap out axles.

is htere anything I should do to make the new one up to speed. like seals and what not.

I also have to go get it. 1.5 hrs away. so its not to bad.

will do some more reading on this all.

thanks

 

[Nelsonmd]

I found one for $350 complete, so I am going to just swap out axles.

is htere anything I should do to make the new one up to speed. like seals and what not.

I also have to go get it. 1.5 hrs away. so its not to bad.

will do some more reading on this all.

thanks

Is it the same gear ratio? This is very important since you have 4WD. Have you done the spin test? Spin test is really the only trustworthy way to check it.

 

[rjaudi]

If you have an elocker you must find another elocker axle. The elockers auto's had a 4.30 axle almost always and the non elocked autos typically had a 4.10. You will not be able to use 4wd if you mix up the axle ratios.

 

[MTDewX8]

i sent pic to the the wreaking yard of the door sticker and he said I do have a 4.10. I have a 5 speed so the stick shifts might be different.

yes i know I have to get the same axles having the e-locker.

 

[Nelsonmd]

i sent pic to the the wreaking yard of the door sticker and he said I do have a 4.10. I have a 5 speed so the stick shifts might be different.

yes i know I have to get the same axles having the e-locker.

It doesn't really matter what was originally put in what configuration, or what the door code says. It could have been swapped, or the rule could be wrong. You are dropping alot of money, just do the spin test. It take about 10 minutes and it is way more foolproof than the door sticker.

Search on here and you will find that multiple guys have had odd configurations.

Trust me, it is worth it.

 

[MTDewX8]

I Just confirmed with the dealer, that the auto's have 4.30 and stick shift have 4.10's (e-locked). what concerns me is like you said, different configurations. I think this truck was bought new out of the US so the VIN is different.

not sure what the spin test is so I will read up and search that.

thanks all for the input

 

[Big John]

Is the new axle an e-locker housing?

 

[MTDewX8]

yes, I made sure I stated that on my request, but I have not seen it in person yet.

i will pick it up Monday morning and put it on Tuesday if all goes well

I just hope I dont find any more surprises of rust on other places on the rig

Is the new axle an e-locker housing?

 

[driffter33]

FOR $350 if it is a e locker housing does it have the 3rd member in it. if it is 4.30 and you have 4.10 swap 3rd members when you pull the axles to replace the seals then sell your extra 3rd. that's a Danny good deal if it is a complete elocker housing.