Rusty rear bumper replacement & hitch ?

surfh2o

New member
I removed the mudguards, and side chrome pieces. Removed the top black plastic piece. Had to cut out the chrome face bar. There are 2 Y-bars. They seem to bolt into the underside of the cargo floor. I removed the carpet hoping to find the other end of the bolt but didn't. I'm worried that I will break off the bolt and have no way to get a new one back in. I've already broken numerous bolts, but they were in places that wouldn't cause a problem. That also brings up a hitch question. The hitch bolts go into the frame and I'm basically worried about the same thing happening. I can see into the square frame hole where the nuts would be and if I broke the bolt I could drill it out. However, I don't know if I could get the new nuts back down the hole properly. Seems like I would lose them in there. Any ideas for either? My goal is to remove as much hardware from the rear end and brush all the rust out, coat in Rust Bullet. I also want to clean up the salvageable pieces and coat them too. I plan on only replacing nuts/bolts and the chrome face bar. I think the previous owner dropped his boat in the water a lot cause the very rear end is pretty rusty, but only the frame parts not the metal body.
 
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Here is the diagram of the bumper.
Bumper.jpg~original


As for the hitch, I think there are plates on the inside of the frame rails to keep the bolts from pulling through. The nuts are tack welded to the plate. I could be wrong, I installed a Hidden Hitch on mine so I can only go by what I remember hearing others talk about. Hope that helps.

And PB Blast can work good to soak into your bolts before you try to loosen them.
 
I can feel the nut in the frame hole, there is a lot of rust in there. It's so tight I would probably break the weld. I'm just going to leave it in place and seal the hell out it, bolts and all. I guess I'm going to do the same for the Y-bracket. If me or someone else wants to remove it later it will have to be drilled out. I just can't believe there isn't an easier way to get to the nuts. It doesn't seem like the rear end very rebuildable.
 
I replaced the rear chrome center section in May of 08. I bought new bumper bolts from the Toyota dealer and the center section off of E-bay. Don't mess with the Y brackets, there's no need to. Just clean them up as good as possible and paint them. Ya, a lot of the bolts will break even after soaking them with WD-40.
As for the tow hitch, I believe there are 4 main bolts that hold it to the frame. I took my hitch off when I bought the truck new since I don't tow anything. If you don't need the hitch take it off completely.
Soak the crap out of them with WD-40 and keep spraying for a few days. Work the bolts back & forth using a long breaker bar. If they do break, which I think they will, just get new bolts & nuts and replace them. The nut underneath is not welded in a fixed position to the frame.
Hope this helps.
 
surfh2o said:
I want the hitch and if I take it out I don't think I could get the nut back down the frame hole properly.

I got mine out without a problem. If it came out, it's got to go back in. Be patient and take your time. Don't rush. If you have a telescoping antena with a magnet at the end that may help to.
 
For treating bolts, use PB Blaster or Kroil. They are a penetrate. WD 40 is not very effective.

Repeated soaking of the bolt over a few days will do wonders. I got my front bumper off without breaking a single bolt. Soak in the a.m. and p.m.
 
maine runner said:
For treating bolts, use PB Blaster or Kroil. They are a penetrate. WD 40 is not very effective.

Repeated soaking of the bolt over a few days will do wonders. I got my front bumper off without breaking a single bolt. Soak in the a.m. and p.m.

I didn't break any bolts either. The key is taking your time. Using lots of PB blaster so it has time to "magnetically" walk up the threads. To me there is nothing more of a PITA than broken bolts, but maybe thats just me.

If you can't reach the bolts for the hitch, take it down to a shop that has the right tools and they can reach it. If that is all you need done, it should be 10 bucks.
 
I am a bolt breakin' SOB, but I don't have patience either. Guess I need to try better. So you think I should try to remove this stuff for a better rust coat and to replace the nuts and bolts and not just cover everything in rust bullet.
 
surfh2o said:
I am a bolt breakin' SOB, but I don't have patience either. Guess I need to try better. So you think I should try to remove this stuff for a better rust coat and to replace the nuts and bolts and not just cover everything in rust bullet.

I put all new hardware, including the brackets on mine when I replaced the bumpers. The hardware was already getting really bad so it needed to be done if I ever wanted to remove it again.
Just think, you could get rear ended and not be able to get the stuff off. That would make the next job that much harder.

For painting over rust, use POR-15 paint and then top it with Chassis coat. That would work best if you want to paint your frame. IMHO

I have never used Rust Bullet but their claims are pretty amazing.
 
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another great lubricant that's readily available at your local auto parts store is Liquid Wrench.

I used it to remove my bolts and O2 sensor when I was doing my headers. it worked even on the skewed metal bits that constantly heat and cool with the exhaust.
 

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