Sanity Check after installing 2.5 inch OME kit

[Spriter]

Hello!

I wrapped up installing a 2.5 inch Old Man Emu lift kit on a 05 V6 4WD T4R just the other day! So far it looks GREAT!!



Since then, I have been looking over all the suspension components every few days to be sure nothing is breaking due to this lift, but I wanted to ask a few questions to help clear up some ambiguities regarding having a lifted vehicle (this being my first.)


1. Are there any components that i should expect to fail soon due to the lift kit's height?
For example, i noticed my lower ball joints have "weeped" a bit of grease out, but it seems only during installation, none more has leaked out since then.

2. I see some forum posts for a component referred to as a "Panhard Drop Correction Kit".
Is this something i should investigate getting for my vehicle with a 2.5 Inch lift?

3. I noticed on OME's website, they specify that the lift kit that i have is supposed to have "600 pounds" of load on it.
I am not clear on what this indicates, is not the vehicle 4000+ pounds of weight on the springs/shocks?

4. Is there any other components that I need to replace due to the lift?
For example, some suggestions were made for a new Upper Control Arm to resolve possible alignment issues.

 

[Snacksquatch]

LBJ's are probably fine, but definitely keep your eye on them.

I would MOST DEFINITELY recommend you do your UCA's sooner rather than later, as your alignment will most definitely go out faster without them. SPC's are pretty much the standard but there are some similarly priced versions out there. Wont break the bank and they are highly recommended by all shops Ive made contact with.

What model were your springs, 885 or 886? The load rating is more about how much additional weight you will put on them, ie: armor, bumpers, tire swing out, etc. When I had initially purchased my 07, the guy had done 886 all the way around which were way too stiff, albeit having the right spring rate. Essentially, the softer springs will take away the rake you may get with a stiffer spring while still giving you the lift you want. The higher rated springs will be stiffer, there by giving you the lift but not compressing as easily. In this scenario, I had to switch my fronts to 885 to get the front end level with the back. Left the 886 on the back though and have had no issues in the two years since I bought it.

I havent done the panhard drop, not sure what that is. I will say that you dont need to worry about the diff drop, but opinions on that are a dime a dozen, and still seems about 50/50 on if its really needed or not.

Overall, just keep your eyes on stuff and listening to the vehicle. Your biggest concern is making sure that you get your UCA's as level and straight as possible, because if you do any kind of offroading on the stock's you will probably be straining the rest of the suspension unneccesarily (shocks, coils, etc.)

Kinda basic but hope this helps. Did you replace the shocks/struts as well, or just add the coils?

Hello!

I wrapped up installing a 2.5 inch Old Man Emu lift kit on a 05 V6 4WD T4R just the other day! So far it looks GREAT!!



Since then, I have been looking over all the suspension components every few days to be sure nothing is breaking due to this lift, but I wanted to ask a few questions to help clear up some ambiguities regarding having a lifted vehicle (this being my first.)


1. Are there any components that i should expect to fail soon due to the lift kit's height?
For example, i noticed my lower ball joints have "weeped" a bit of grease out, but it seems only during installation, none more has leaked out since then.

2. I see some forum posts for a component referred to as a "Panhard Drop Correction Kit".
Is this something i should investigate getting for my vehicle with a 2.5 Inch lift?

3. I noticed on OME's website, they specify that the lift kit that i have is supposed to have "600 pounds" of load on it.
I am not clear on what this indicates, is not the vehicle 4000+ pounds of weight on the springs/shocks?

4. Is there any other components that I need to replace due to the lift?
For example, some suggestions were made for a new Upper Control Arm to resolve possible alignment issues.

 

[4RunnerAquasport]

I've had a 2.5" lift for well over 2 years. No parts breaking yet, and I beat this truck on occasion. 2.5 lift is not extreme in height terms and these vehicles seem to handle it well. Over 3" and then problems arise.
-Your ball joint is probably fine.
-Pan Hard correction kit is for helping to keep your rear axle a little more centered and tracking straight but really not necessary. Although people have reported very good results.
-600 lb spring is what that spring is rated for. I believe it takes 600 lbs of force to compress the spring one inch. I have springs rated the same with a bunch of extra weight, so your fine. It is a standard spring rating for our trucks.
-Upper Control Arms are definitely a consideration, especially if you want to run bigger tires. They are designed to correct caster and overall help with your handling combined with your new suspension. I love mine. Total Chaos comes with a +3* caster I think, which moves the wheel forward and away from the dreaded body mount rub. They are expensive though. Good luck and go get it dirty!!

 

[Spriter]

LBJ's are probably fine, but definitely keep your eye on them.

I would MOST DEFINITELY recommend you do your UCA's sooner rather than later, as your alignment will most definitely go out faster without them. SPC's are pretty much the standard but there are some similarly priced versions out there. Wont break the bank and they are highly recommended by all shops Ive made contact with.

What model were your springs, 885 or 886? The load rating is more about how much additional weight you will put on them, ie: armor, bumpers, tire swing out, etc. When I had initially purchased my 07, the guy had done 886 all the way around which were way too stiff, albeit having the right spring rate. Essentially, the softer springs will take away the rake you may get with a stiffer spring while still giving you the lift you want. The higher rated springs will be stiffer, there by giving you the lift but not compressing as easily. In this scenario, I had to switch my fronts to 885 to get the front end level with the back. Left the 886 on the back though and have had no issues in the two years since I bought it.

I havent done the panhard drop, not sure what that is. I will say that you dont need to worry about the diff drop, but opinions on that are a dime a dozen, and still seems about 50/50 on if its really needed or not.

Overall, just keep your eyes on stuff and listening to the vehicle. Your biggest concern is making sure that you get your UCA's as level and straight as possible, because if you do any kind of offroading on the stock's you will probably be straining the rest of the suspension unneccesarily (shocks, coils, etc.)

Kinda basic but hope this helps. Did you replace the shocks/struts as well, or just add the coils?

I will have to check later, i want to be sure i provide the correct info. That said so far it doesn't have any excessive rake in any direction.

And yes, both shocks AND struts were replaced with OME brand (the struts were the nitro charged ones. Unsure if that affects any of your responses here.

Thank you for your reply, it definitely helped me look in the right direction for suspension parts!

 

[IRONLUNG]

Also take a look at your inner CV boot if you haven't already....they might be "sweatin'" a little too from the lift.

 

[Rodtheviking]

Also take a look at your inner CV boot if you haven't already....they might be "sweatin'" a little too from the lift.

Both of my inner clamps leaked, had to replace them.

 

[Spriter]

Also take a look at your inner CV boot if you haven't already....they might be "sweatin'" a little too from the lift.

hehe... in my case the inner cv boot on the passenger side was already torn right at the clamp prior to the lift, so im replacing that this weekend.

Just waiting on my fill/drain plug crush to arrive and the CV axle is getting replaced.

 

[IRONLUNG]

hehe... in my case the inner cv boot on the passenger side was already torn right at the clamp prior to the lift, so im replacing that this weekend.

Just waiting on my fill/drain plug crush to arrive and the CV axle is getting replaced.

I guess there are these after market clamps (vs standard ones) that everyone raves about, that stops them from leaking--McMaster Carr....

Did you actually take before/after measurements? My set up was advertised as 2" in the front and 1.5" in the back; what I actually got....3"+ up front and 2.75" in the rears.....hwell:

Both of my inner clamps leaked, had to replace them.

Same here. Drivers side stopped but passenger side is still "leaking"; shop said leave it alone and don't mess with it so......we'll see.

 

[Spriter]

I guess there are these after market clamps (vs standard ones) that everyone raves about, that stops them from leaking--McMaster Carr....

Did you actually take before/after measurements? My set up was advertised as 2" in the front and 1.5" in the back; what I actually got....3"+ up front and 2.75" in the rears.....hwell:



Same here. Drivers side stopped but passenger side is still "leaking"; shop said leave it alone and don't mess with it so......we'll see.

In my case the boot tore right before the clamp, but i will keep that info in mind in the future when the boot will likely start getting leaky




Unfortunately no measurements with a ruler, but I did have pictures before hand.

And looking at the photos it seems i did get a good deal more of a lift than 2.5 inches. It made me wonder if i had installed them wrong or something, but looking at other peoples photos, it "seems" to be ok.

That said, im not sure what would be a indicator that the lift was installed wrong. I am inspecting the suspension often and not seeing anything tear/rip/break.

 

[cloud]

Nobody has mentioned it yet so illthrow my advice in here. Your lower control arm bushings could be a silent killer. If they're bad or on their way out they could ruin your new suspension, especially if you plan on using it.

I'm doing the pck as soon as I get the kit in the mail. The main advantage as I understand it is that it raises the roll center (may sound counterintuitive but it's better) to higher than factory making it safer in high speed cornering, like a cloverleaf interchange.

If you're ever going to run 35s get the camburg UCA'S.

Firestone sells lifetime alignments, I've used mine twice in as many months and I'm going in again next week.

Your tie rods are probably loose as a $3 whore, mine were, so if you get death wobble don't blame the lift.

You're probably going to start rubbing on the front sway bar. I did the sway bar drop, not sure if I did something wrong. It knocked off my wheel balance weights, ill probably switch to balance beads since they can't be knocked off.

Alignment techs may not have any idea how to properly align your truck. The guys at the Toyota dealer said they could handle my aftermarket UCA'S. Seven hours later and it was just OK.

Never use parts store CV axles. Mine were two inches longer making alignment difficult, plus they broke on the side of a mountain orv trail. It was not fun getting out in two wheel drive.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[Snacksquatch]

I second the comment about finding a reputable OFF ROAD shop to do your alignments/work.

Not that the dealership or normal shop isnt fine for "normal" stuff, but it's going to behoove you to get advice from places that are actually aware of how the rig is being used, what is going to come up down the line (get prepared for a lot of "weakest point" fixes as you beef others up), and just are much more aware of off road scenarios and how your equipment will be used.

Not sure of your location but FB or something similar is great for getting recs on a good shop in your area. I love mine because not only do they do great work, but theyre also way too busy to ever recommend something that doesnt need to be immediately done, because they simply dont want to take on more work than they have to. Way less prone to get some "recommendations" that really are just a shop trying to sell you more shit. I also highly recommend Les Schwab in an everyday situation where you cant get in to your normal shop.

Definitely get those tie rods checked out too.

Nobody has mentioned it yet so illthrow my advice in here. Your lower control arm bushings could be a silent killer. If they're bad or on their way out they could ruin your new suspension, especially if you plan on using it.

I'm doing the pck as soon as I get the kit in the mail. The main advantage as I understand it is that it raises the roll center (may sound counterintuitive but it's better) to higher than factory making it safer in high speed cornering, like a cloverleaf interchange.

If you're ever going to run 35s get the camburg UCA'S.

Firestone sells lifetime alignments, I've used mine twice in as many months and I'm going in again next week.

Your tie rods are probably loose as a $3 whore, mine were, so if you get death wobble don't blame the lift.

You're probably going to start rubbing on the front sway bar. I did the sway bar drop, not sure if I did something wrong. It knocked off my wheel balance weights, ill probably switch to balance beads since they can't be knocked off.

Alignment techs may not have any idea how to properly align your truck. The guys at the Toyota dealer said they could handle my aftermarket UCA'S. Seven hours later and it was just OK.

Never use parts store CV axles. Mine were two inches longer making alignment difficult, plus they broke on the side of a mountain orv trail. It was not fun getting out in two wheel drive.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

 

[NinjaOne]

Hello!

I wrapped up installing a 2.5 inch Old Man Emu lift kit on a 05 V6 4WD T4R just the other day! So far it looks GREAT!!



Since then, I have been looking over all the suspension components every few days to be sure nothing is breaking due to this lift, but I wanted to ask a few questions to help clear up some ambiguities regarding having a lifted vehicle (this being my first.)


1. Are there any components that i should expect to fail soon due to the lift kit's height?
For example, i noticed my lower ball joints have "weeped" a bit of grease out, but it seems only during installation, none more has leaked out since then.

2. I see some forum posts for a component referred to as a "Panhard Drop Correction Kit".
Is this something i should investigate getting for my vehicle with a 2.5 Inch lift?

3. I noticed on OME's website, they specify that the lift kit that i have is supposed to have "600 pounds" of load on it.
I am not clear on what this indicates, is not the vehicle 4000+ pounds of weight on the springs/shocks?

4. Is there any other components that I need to replace due to the lift?
For example, some suggestions were made for a new Upper Control Arm to resolve possible alignment issues.

1. Front control arm bushings/joints potentially. At your age, those are the prime suspects.
2. The panhard drop is for the third gen. 4th gen just recently got a bracket that raises the panhard (which is what is needed to correct) No one's really had an issue with the pan hard and there were longer ones available that compensated somewhat (also not really needed under 3-4" rear lift from what I can tell) That said, I'm installing the panhard correction bracket in the next couple of weeks. I'll try and post back if significant improvement but it's not bad as is
3. Would have to see before I could comment. Could either be the spring rate (~590# or 650#) or how much weight you need to run with the coils. At 2.5" I'm guessing the spring rate
4. Front control arms (upper and lower) isn't a bad idea. New bushings/joints.

 

[hinmo24t]

did you get the 884/895 or 883/895e for the coils?

i plan on doing this kit in the next few mos unless the eibach pro truck lift
gets a few other good reviews or pics up here. if i go OME i am doing 884/895 with the same shocks you got. I have done a fair amount of research and am going to run aftermarket UCAs with either kit most likely, to get alignment benefits. from what i gathered, the aftermarket UCAs will be fine to go alongside your kit. i looked into panhard and diff drop, and never heard of LCA bushing issue or tie rods as long as you arent over 3" or offroading like crazy. I will be doing some moderate wheeling with mine and keep an eye on everything with just the lift kit and UCAs.

good luck!

 

[jrm]

thing is

In my case the boot tore right before the clamp, but i will keep that info in mind in the future when the boot will likely start getting leaky




Unfortunately no measurements with a ruler, but I did have pictures before hand.

And looking at the photos it seems i did get a good deal more of a lift than 2.5 inches. It made me wonder if i had installed them wrong or something, but looking at other peoples photos, it "seems" to be ok.

That said, im not sure what would be a indicator that the lift was installed wrong. I am inspecting the suspension often and not seeing anything tear/rip/break.

that when they claim a 2.5" lift there doing so without compensating for the sag of your old suspension due to age. I dont remeber seeing what you installed listed in you OP.

Also the best alignment shop i know of, and use in California is big o tire. good luck.