Sanity check stereo install

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IMO you will not be satisfied if you keep the JBL amp. I spent something like $800 for a Kenwood head unit and it sounded a little better than stock, but not much. This year I replaced the amp with a Rockford Fosgate amp and disconnected the front/dash speaker. The sound is now much better. Still would like to change the sub and speakers, but not sure I want to spend more money on it.
 
IMO you will not be satisfied if you keep the JBL amp. I spent something like $800 for a Kenwood head unit and it sounded a little better than stock, but not much. This year I replaced the amp with a Rockford Fosgate amp and disconnected the front/dash speaker. The sound is now much better. Still would like to change the sub and speakers, but not sure I want to spend more money on it.

It appears I am in the minority, but I would not consider myself dissatisfied with the Jbl sound quality. Sure it could be better, but it's not something that bothers me in regular use. My primary motivation for this upgrade has much more to do with function and decluttering. So many things about the factory nav suck... Can't use in motion. Outdated maps. Crappy interface... My phone runs circles around it in this area, so I have a dash mount with wires running back to power and Aux in. Just a clunky solution.

My plan is to run AR unchained and find an unobtrusive place for the phone. This will give me the streamlined functionality I am after. As long as there's not a significant decline in sound quality I will be satisfied.
 
OK I purchased all of the above and have it laid out on my counter trying to resolve everything in my head before doing anything. I have a number of questions. I have the E7008 Nav and found the following pin-out:

33602d1285706975-5th-gen-navigation-wiring-info-nav-radio-connector-pinouts-002.jpg


Questions:

There is an RCA style input on the Pioneer for the backup camera, but it looks like the factory camera supplies video via wires in a 24 pin connector (R26 above). Do I just splice an RCA connector onto the wires from pins 21 and 24 in the above diagram? And should I expect the image to be reversed? I've heard that's an issue with some Pioneer decks?

I also see pins supplying voltage to the backup camera (22 and 23). I would assume I need to account for this, but I saw a thread with some question about the factory camera possibly using 5v instead of 12? I figured I'd just use the Reverse wire for power there but I would assume that is 12V? Does anyone know for sure how much voltage the factory backup cam requires?

Hopefully someone can set me straight on these questions. I feel like I'm close, but really want to be confident before I start.
 
Bad form replying to my own post, but I believe I've managed to answer all my own questions. RCA jack can be spliced as I hoped. Factory backup cam is 6v so I bought a transistor/heat sink and soldered up a little adapter. Total cost <$5 including fuse and fuse holder.

I am trying to get as much done as I can before tearing into the dash. The PAC TATO came with a connector that connects to R12 in the above diagram. I know I can cut/splice for the other connectors, but has anyone found a source for the mates to those plugs with wires already installed? I would really prefer to avoid doing a bunch of splicing/soldering while inside the vehicle. I would much rather spend a few bucks to allow me to wire things up at my workbench and limit the in-vehicle portion of the installation to plugging in, locating some components and mounting the HU.

Maybe I'm dreaming, but I'm hoping someone has figured this out.
 
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The TATO and SWI are plug in play for the most part. PAC makes a line converter you'll most likely need. What most people are experiencing is the stock jbl system sounds okay, the system with an aftermarket HU and adapters does not sound great. I went with all the adapters and a pioneer AVH 200BT and it sounds fair, maybe not as good as stock, but I wanted DVD, BT, and a back up cam.
For some reason the amp just doesn't work as well with the adapter driving it.
Sounds crazy but the metra JBL specific install kit did not work in my truck (didn't fit the opening), I ended up using the non JBL metra kit.
 
I have the TATO, but of the plugs shown in the diagram above it comes with only the one that fits R12. There are a number of connections needed from the others shown there. I can certainly splice them, but thought it would be nice if I found mates and then wired from those - leaving the factory harnesses unmodified.

Probably a pipe dream.
 

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