savage sliders

[criera]

So I'm thinkin about pulling the trigger on some savage sliders with kickout. Does anybody know if they play well with the black SR5 Flares and more importantly the infamous front mudflaps?

Also, if anybody else is in the market, Savage told me they would give a discount for multiple orders. 5% for two items (including mine) 10% for 3 items and 15% for 4 items. Bumpers, Skids, and sliders all count so if you re also in the market, let me know.

If you want to share, id like to hear about whatever sliders you got with the black SR5 flare/flaps.

Heres a pic of the flares/flaps i am curious about.

Thanks!

 

[TheArkMaster]

This is what I plan on getting. Strange. I have an sr5 but bigger flares w/o the cuts in the doors.... I wonder if mine were switched early on....

 

[snivilous]

This is what I plan on getting. Strange. I have an sr5 but bigger flares w/o the cuts in the doors.... I wonder if mine were switched early on....

The limited style flares were an option on the SR5, or as you said they could of been added/swapped later on. My runner didn't come with any flares from the factory and then my dad put limiteds on soon after buying it.

So I'm thinkin about pulling the trigger on some savage sliders with kickout. Does anybody know if they play well with the black SR5 Flares and more importantly the infamous front mudflaps?

Do the sliders bolt to a specific spot? Otherwise you should just be able to mount them where ever you like and just take a tape measure and see if there is any clearance issues. Likewise, if no one has a definite answer you could ask savage to give you dimensions of the front of the slider and the rear of the slider relative to some point and go measure it.

By the way, sweet looking truck.

 

[nihkon]

I have the Savage sliders (no kickout though), with the SR5 fender flares. The rear flares needed trimming, even with my non-kickout sliders. I can't comment on the front mud flaps, since I never had them. But my assumption is that they would need some trimming as well.

Here is a photo of how I trimmed the rear fender flares:
As you can see, I cut the flare just enough to clear the sliders. It seems most people just hack off the whole bottom section of the flares.

 

[Kanger328]

It looks like you'll have to do some cutting. I have a '96 Limited and had to cut the front and rear fenders. I know you have a SR5, but it looks like your front flap and rear fender stick down quite a bit. Nothing a cheap dremel can't fix.

 

[TheArkMaster]

I like the front flaps though. I want to get some universal rally armors and see how they look.

 

[afg10000]

It looks like you'll have to do some cutting. I have a '96 Limited and had to cut the front and rear fenders. I know you have a SR5, but it looks like your front flap and rear fender stick down quite a bit. Nothing a cheap dremel can't fix.

I agree about the cutting. You'll have to make a decision if you want the Savage sliders on there. They're 68" long and welded at a 20*angle from the frame pipes. IIRC, you should have 2.5-3" clearance from the tires in front and back (depending on tire size).

 

[criera]

Thanks for the compliment Sniv. She is definitely my better half.

Nihkon, thanks for that pic. It really lets me know where the rear flare ends up. Full chop with kickout but thats ok, i dont mind losing the rear. The front is what i care about most. i'm speculating its probably a no-go on the flap.

Im torn, ive always been a function over form guy, and that favors ditching the flaps. BUT, here in the Pac NW where it rains (a lot) the flaps really do keep a lot of road spray and mud off the sides so...

I dont wheel a lot, maybe 6 times a year and nothing super technical, ill definitely use the sliders but not nearly as much as the flaps.

Maybe its time to reconsider my options, ive heard the 4xinnov sliders are a few inches shorter and might work better, they have a kickout too but dont come all welded up like the savage do.

From what ive heard stubbs will spec them perfectly based on what flares you got but i cant justify the $500 those would cost.

Afg thanks those specs. The 2.5" of clearance on the tires paints a good picture. Im waiting to hear back from savage, I'll ask if he is open to making a slightly shorter set but if he doesn't want the hassle of a one-off i understand.

Thanks for everybody's thoughts. Were prol lookin at a new set of 4x sliders if i were a bettin man.

 

[4x4mike]

I've got Stubbs sliders. They are the standard model with no kickout. Kickout or not call him and tell him which flares you have and he'll build them. Mine took a day to weld up before being shipped. They fit with about 1/2" on each side from the flares/mudflap.

If I were to do it again I'd get the kickout but it's no big deal.

This is the only pic I have available that shows the side view even though the sliders are hard to see.

 

[SweetWaterSurprise]

Now those are nice

 

[4x4mike]

They are a standard tube design. 1.5" tubing with skab plates welded to the frame. I cut and welded in some inserts between the two long tubes to protect the paint from rock chips. The plates deflect the gravel, water and mud and protect about the same as the factory running boards did. These are just more rock friendly.

Criera, I remove my mudguards when in the rock, most of the time. As you know they aren't all that flexible and take a beating in the rocks. Even with them removed plates can offer the protection you want.

 

[criera]

What a money shot 4x4mike! I cant stop looking.

Perfect world for me would be front just short and right up against the flaps, a lil longer then those, and the rear, cut the flares and tight on the tire like the savage sliders.

If stubs and savage got together and had a baby, i want that.

 

[4x4mike]

For me the perfect design wouldn't have the bend inward on the ends. For the most part I tag the sides and mid bottoms of my sliders when in the rocks. I do have some rear lower flare rock rash but it's from sliding on the sliders all the way until they end...right into the flare. A kick out would help transfer that rock into the sidewall or the tread of the tire instead of the flare.

The fronts would be nice if the outside tube tucked right into the mud guard. That way if you had it attached or removed a rock coming from under the front tire would transfer to the slider right away and not get hung up.

I know I have a few more pictures I can post up. Calling Stubbs and sharing some slider baby making ideas might be worth your while. It's not too custom for a guy that can whip this stuff out.

 

[4x4mike]

Here's a shot with the mud guard removed. It leaves a spot that can get a rock shoved up into. Crawling over a large rock and coming down slow can take out that sheet metal.

 

[TheArkMaster]

If stubs and savage got together and had a baby, i want that.

ooooooh. Yes.

Stabage?

Savubs?

Stavage?

 

[masphx]

Don't be afraid to cut that rear flare that hangs down pass the rocker panels. That is what I did to mine and then had HD-SKO's custom built in length so they would butt up against the front mud guard but still utilize the added space were I cut the flare off.

 

[afg10000]

Here's a shot with the mud guard removed. It leaves a spot that can get a rock shoved up into. Crawling over a large rock and coming down slow can take out that sheet metal.

Those look like 58" sliders. I ran into all of these problems as well. 68" will protect the entire base without leaving enough room for rocks or what not to get in between the sliders and the wheels. OP, what I did was use 68" sliders w/kickout and welded the sliders to the frame pipes at an angle that would accommodate the flares. Best of both worlds.

 

[Scramble]

Those look like 58" sliders. I ran into all of these problems as well. 68" will protect the entire base without leaving enough room for rocks or what not to get in between the sliders and the wheels. OP, what I did was use 68" sliders w/kickout and welded the sliders to the frame pipes at an angle that would accommodate the flares. Best of both worlds.

That's the way to do it.

 

[MyHigh]

When I was talking to Steve at (SS) we got on the topic of sliders and he mentioned Stubbs and how they can shorten up tHe sliders a bit if I wanted to because of the front flaps. I don't remember correctly without going out and measuring right now but something like 51" would work and just clear the front and back with no cutting involved

 

[Scramble]

When I was talking to Steve at (SS) we got on the topic of sliders and he mentioned Stubbs and how they can shorten up tHe sliders a bit if I wanted to because of the front flaps. I don't remember correctly without going out and measuring right now but something like 51" would work and just clear the front and back with no cutting involved

That's too short, I think something like 66" would fit between. All-Pro sliders are 60" & they look too small.