Saved from the Scrapyard: Ressurecting a 500$ 3rd Gen

fun thread. and bleh, black hands from dander, oil and dirt. that looks like our door molding from when the cats rub on them.

a couple posts up you mentioned descaling. do you hit it with a wire brush, clean it to the point it's bare metal, then hit it with undercoat? i'd be interested to hear the highlights of the procedure you use. i've read some comparisons across several brands and POR and picklex seem to be well-regarded for prep. thanks
 
fun thread. and bleh, black hands from dander, oil and dirt. that looks like our door molding from when the cats rub on them.

a couple posts up you mentioned descaling. do you hit it with a wire brush, clean it to the point it's bare metal, then hit it with undercoat? i'd be interested to hear the highlights of the procedure you use. i've read some comparisons across several brands and POR and picklex seem to be well-regarded for prep. thanks
It's really just minor spotty scaly surface rust throughout the frame and undercarriage. It's not too bad just worse than the perfectly rust free frames I'm used to. I'll just be tackling it mostly with 4" wire brush cups on an angle grinder and covering with 3M professional undercoating since I still have most of a case of it left.

I'm not too concerned about rust prevention necessarily because as long as you don't let the loamy soil stay caked in places where it stays moist there isn't really anything around here that causes rust. The trucks only rusty from spending some time back east in PA.

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Welp, it's decided. Custom bumpers it is. As much as I'd like the look of chrome bumpers for that OE clean-Ness, I know in the end that just isn't gonna cut it. I've never been that enamored with any stock-ish truck and it's gonna end up being a waste when I get tired of it.

Tonight was the night, bye-bye f'd up stock bumper, for good.

This illustrates an important piece of information for anybody looking at a truck that's collected any amount of surface rust. It's the places you can't see that are gonna be the worst. Rust is kind of like mice. If you're seeing it out in the open, there's a far bigger problem hiding where you'd never know.

The inside of the rear of the frame rails are super crusty, the support pieces that are welded in for the rear tow points are actually eaten through in fact, and there is nearly nothing left of their Threaded inserts. Luckily I was able to carefully tighten 3 of those 4 bolts into place and save the brackets given with the aftermarket hitch. Nothing unsalvagable, but it'll take some work.

Long story short I weight reduced everything that wasn't welded on and did a little grinding to flip the aftermarket (curt) hitch over and slapped some new hardware on to hold it.

This will be the base for a tube bumper build over the course of the near future. I know exactly how I want to build it, just not exactly how to attach it to what's already there. I'll have to wait for my "A-ha" moment then I'll be building, probably slowly because I'm lazy.
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Just read through this - I'm always stoked to see revival threads like this. Keep on keepin' on - can't wait to see your depiction of the ideal tube bumpers :cheers:
 
Great Job [MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION] . I basically do the same thing and been restoring since the 90s. All but One I paid $500 or less for. Mostly in my area. Its rusted out frames. I found better ways to fix them over the years and now moving into the Autobody side of things. I do it just to improve my skills and it's my hobby.

There is nothing like looking at completely rotted out frame and seeing the photos after restoration.

Its truly a shame we become a throw away society though. Are grandparents would be turning over in their graves as they were depression era kids and adults. Nothing would be thrown away and everything would be reused and recycled.

Oh well keep up the good work. I know with my fleet of 5. I will probably sell a few of mine off once they are completely rebuilt and partially restored. :]

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Great Job [MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION] . I basically do the same thing and been restoring since the 90s. All but One I paid $500 or less for. Mostly in my area. Its rusted out frames. I found better ways to fix them over the years and now moving into the Autobody side of things. I do it just to improve my skills and it's my hobby.

There is nothing like looking at completely rotted out frame and seeing the photos after restoration.

Its truly a shame we become a throw away society though. Are grandparents would be turning over in their graves as they were depression era kids and adults. Nothing would be thrown away and everything would be reused and recycled.

Oh well keep up the good work. I know with my fleet of 5. I will probably sell a few of mine off once they are completely rebuilt and partially restored. :]

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I'm really glad I don't live in the rust belt. If there's one thing I hate more than anything it's laying under crusty vehicles grinding away with all the dirt and junk falling on me. No bueno. Couple that with bolts snapping off left and right and I gotta say Major props to you, if it wasn't for the usually spotless frames here that bolts wind right out of, I just plain wouldn't do it.

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Well, took me all of a day to decide that the hitch as-is wasn't gonna cut it. Angled round tubes and the fact that it stuck out so far made it a less than ideal base to build from.

So I busted out my favorite tool, the Sawzall (aka the universal wrench) and sliced the brackets right off. If anyone's wondering what kind of blade you use to slice through 2.5" 1/4" wall tube, I got one word, Lenox. Specifically the Lenox Lazer PowerArc extreme metal blades. They are no joke, second only to the carbide tipped Lazer blades. If you're at the store looking at sawzall blades and wondering why they're so much more expensive, just do it. You won't regret it.

It's at this point that you start to question all the choices you've made in your life that lead to you cutting apart a perfectly good hitch, just to make an objectively less practical hitch out of it.

Once I got the brackets all cleaned up I took a trip out to the steel pile and found the perfect piece. Anyone worried about strength don't be. It's 3x3" 1/4" wall square tube. Perfect fit for the brackets.

I don't typically do a whole lot of welding, but lately I have been. I'm actually surprised at how good of a bead I'm able to lay with the old hot snot machine right now. I'm sure I'll end up taking a six month hiatus and losing my edge before too long.

Too lazy to hunt down the hitch insert tonight and get it notched in so I'll leave it at that.
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I'm really glad I don't live in the rust belt. If there's one thing I hate more than anything it's laying under crusty vehicles grinding away with all the dirt and junk falling on me. No bueno. Couple that with bolts snapping off left and right and I gotta say Major props to you, if it wasn't for the usually spotless frames here that bolts wind right out of, I just plain wouldn't do it.

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I can understand that it can be a real PITA at times. However, there isn't any way around it on old neglected rigs. I had to save a few. As 3 of these 5 would have been headed to the scrap yard if I didn't bring them home.

I can see the hitch mod.. Not bad :D
 
Well, started tonight by getting the hitch all dialed in. I decided to up the ante a little further even and only half recessed it into the top of the crossmember. It's not just tight to the hatch, it's almost rediculous. Not like I'm gonna be towing with the 4 cylinder runner out of everything though, so I'm going all out, no compromise. Pokes out just far enough to be usable with a clevis adapter. Departure angle maxed out.

Then I had my "A-ha!" moment that I really needed. I know exactly how to mount the main hoops to the crossmember. Started out by spacing a piece of plate up with a couple little pieces of 3x3. This plate will sit on top of my main hoop, another similar piece of plate will tie the bottom of the tube directly back to the hitch crossmember. Should be strong, fairly light and not kill any clearance at all.

Go to bolt it on, Oops the stops for the spare tire are right in the way, blast em off real quick. Remember, no compromise.

Got one side welded up and even had time to bust out the bender and start slinging tube. First off a 90 degree into 3/16 wall. Let me tell you this is not easy to bend. I'm all of 6 feet and 240 lbs and throw tires all day and it kills me just doing a couple bends by hand. This settles that I'm getting the hydraulic conversion. One bend made though.

I ran into what I knew I would, the tube at the bend sticks out a little far for my liking, there's no better way to do it and still protect the hatch , so I'll have to live with it. Should look OK all done though.

And at this point I've decided. A swing out tire carrier is happening. The weld wheels on the runner are sold and I've ordered up a new set of 5 wheels. The lack of a matching spare wheel (and a little tiny bit of my laziness) was all that was keeping me from going with a swing out setup. If I ever want to get welds back on the runner finding 5 matching will suck, but it'll be worth it in the long run.

Mocked up and 2x3 should work perfectly. Steel run tomorrow even though I don't need it just yet. I might go. 1/8 wall tube on the less structural upper hoops and braces though, just to save weight and my back.
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Decent homemade hitch. I am curious how it will function for you. I take it your spare tire location will never be used again.:D

Being how you design this it really should be strong as the new 4 runners have hitches built right into the frame. This of course is all dependent on how good your welds are. ;)

Great job. :]

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Looking good.

Still looking for manual hub spindles?
Planning on stealing all the suspension off my other runner since it's just sitting around waiting for me to swap it onto different running gear, just haven't got that far yet.

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Decent homemade hitch. I am curious how it will function for you. I take it your spare tire location will never be used again.:D

Being how you design this it really should be strong as the new 4 runners have hitches built right into the frame. This of course is all dependent on how good your welds are. ;)

Great job. :]

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No sir, wouldn't even be able to fit a stock size spare since the hitch goes right through where it would be anyways. It's main function is gonna be holding a d ring mount and I think it'll do that no problem. Welds are about the best I've ever laid, I'm super happy with myself on em.

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No sir, wouldn't even be able to fit a stock size spare since the hitch goes right through where it would be anyways. It's main function is gonna be holding a d ring mount and I think it'll do that no problem. Welds are about the best I've ever laid, I'm super happy with myself on em.

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They look decent. I don't see a reason why they will not hold.. :D
 
Started out tonight not knowing the exact route I was going to take, but ended up figuring it out rather quickly. I decided to stick with the 3/16 wall on the upper tube because of adding the swing out to the plans. Keep it strong. It's going to be pretty dang heavy I think.

Welded on the main hoop that ties into the actual center, bent up the top hoop too
Got it all lined up and cut the side plate and rigged it up to where I could center everything and level it out as I stitched pieces together. Overall everything is pretty dang squared up. I added the plate I'll use to build the hinge for the swing out too, 3" wide 1/4" steel.

I'll have it welded solid front and rear, and also plan on taking a tube off the back of it and running it back to a main support that'll be added soon. All to keep it from flexing. The tire will be offset to the passenger's side. Both for better. Rear visibility and keeping the leverage low on the hinge point. Unfortunately the pad doesn't come out perfectly flat, so I'll have to struggle getting the swing out square.

I got to the point where I'm able to leave it overnight and chopped off the tailpipe in preparation for bracing back to the hitch.
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Worked a little on the bumper but not much. Busy and feeling not so hot right now but I'll get back on it.

Got the inner plate welded on the passenger side and the support bar for the wing zapped into place, then took it apart, welded it all in and chopped the excess off to match it up to the wheelwell opening. Left enough room for 35's, because honestly it'll have to happen eventually.

Then I got my deal all dialed in on the welds. They got sold today, they'll be on a much nicer double cab 1st gen tundra. That meant I had to choose a set of wheels to hold myself over, and I needed a set of 5. Didn't want to break the bank, being a cheap ass and whatnot. 660$ shipped to my door got me a set of 5 Level 8 MK6's, 16x8", with a little bit of extra offset at -10. Good enough.

I had wanted to get the gray version and originally ordered them, but they were back ordered over a month, so I went ahead and switched to the bronze, which is really more of a gold color. Looks good still.

Highly recommend Custom Offsets if you're looking to order wheels or tires, prices were on par with anyone else, they had someone personally make sure I didn't need Lugnuts or a set of tires with the wheels, and when I asked for a shipment date they were quick to inform me of the backorder and gladly changed my invoice for me and had wheels shipped out the next day.
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I have a moderately rusty 2002 4WD. Although the frame looks like a replacement. Need a rear hatch. Just too much cancer. Know anybody from down south or out west with a clean hatch?
 

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