School me on the necessity of adjustable sway bar links

There is a misconception among us wheelers when it comes to the % of offroading vs % of DDing. Let's face it, you're DDing your rig probably six to seven days a week and NOT wheeling every week, contrary to what we actually would like to do. So, things like sway bar removal and slapping on super aggressive tires are really nothing short of stupidity and money wastage. I know this sounds harsh but this is the reality and this is ONLY my opinion. Very few of us have dedicated wheeling rigs that are used solely for the purpose of wheeling, I being one of them. Actually, I am fortunate enough to have two dedicated wheeling rigs and yet, I don't subscribe to this philosophy of making them drive like shit on the hwy with no sway bars and mud tires. I know, each to their own and this is purely my opinion. I also have other drivers who drive both of my wheeling rigs and they don't need to be "schooled" on how to drive them. My rigs are predictable and easy to drive. My rig has 700# springs so I'm sure that helps.

With that said, I'm thinking I"m going to have to use the spacer blocks to relocate the front sway bar mount as I'm not a fan of aftermarket adj links. They simply won't hold up to the rigors of DDing. Heims and exposed threads don't appreciate winter salt and summer road grime. I know they're sexy but they're pretty useless on a DD unless you like to maintain them on a regular basis. It's cool if you do but I like to not worry about such things as I have bigger things to worry about. I have few friends who drank from the Uni-ball Kool-Aid and now have to grease them frequently as they're sick of the squeaks. All these bling belong on a race truck/car where they're serviced after every race.
 
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To each their own. :painkiller:
I would rather drive something with my personality than some soccer mommy 4runner.

I have had the front sway bar on and off probably 6+ times over the years.
I like it off.

Finally getting good shocks and a heavier front springs (700lbs) helps too.
That heavier front spring helps with body roll some but dosent seem to limit travel. Like swaybar can.

Was also thinking that tires may wear out faster due to lean in corners, tires would not sit as flat without front swaybar. Due to body roll affecting tire geometry.

Something else, i was smacking the SPC UCAs on the inner wheel well without sway bar, offroad. Required more adjustments, body lift and different bumpstops.
Didnt notice hitting with the bar on.

...another thought on mud tires, loud so small children and animals hear you coming.
Tailgaters generally dont tailgate for long and if they do just aim for the debris in the shoulder.
 
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You guys must live in states without safety inspections. No way removing a swaybar would fly here. I took mine out of my Cherokee years ago and it was terrifying to drive. Granted different vehicle but still, it's there for a reason. The compromise there was detachable links. Surely they must make them for the 4runners too?simply pop the pin out at the trail ans back in when you're done.
 
You guys must live in states without safety inspections. No way removing a swaybar would fly here. I took mine out of my Cherokee years ago and it was terrifying to drive. Granted different vehicle but still, it's there for a reason. The compromise there was detachable links. Surely they must make them for the 4runners too?simply pop the pin out at the trail ans back in when you're done.

That's another reason not to live in your state :lmao: I don't think any state West of the Rockies have annual vehicle inspections.

Detachable links do work but they're not as easy as your old XJ. Some dude made a custom set for his rig and that involves leaving one side connected but disconnection the other side. He had to cut the free end off and do some welding and such.

One of my buddies found out the hard way that when he disconnected his front sway bar, the up/down movement of his front suspension caused his CV boots to rub against the free end of the sway bar. This was in his Taco but I'm guessing same principle applies to all 4runners with IFS.
 
So would you do both adjustable end links and the relocation kit? Or a relocation kit with stock end links?

I really wish the disconnect and move out of the way would work on these guys :/ About the only option is the sliding type that MStudt was making for a while. They do disconnect the two sides from eachother, but it only adds as much travel as the length of the endlinks. Not sure if he still makes them or not.
 
There is a misconception among us wheelers when it comes to the % of offroading vs % of DDing. Let's face it, you're DDing your rig probably six to seven days a week and NOT wheeling every week, contrary to what we actually would like to do. So, things like sway bar removal and slapping on super aggressive tires are really nothing short of stupidity and money wastage. I know this sounds harsh but this is the reality and this is ONLY my opinion. Very few of us have dedicated wheeling rigs that are used solely for the purpose of wheeling, I being one of them. Actually, I am fortunate enough to have two dedicated wheeling rigs and yet, I don't subscribe to this philosophy of making them drive like shit on the hwy with no sway bars and mud tires. I know, each to their own and this is purely my opinion. I also have other drivers who drive both of my wheeling rigs and they don't need to be "schooled" on how to drive them. My rigs are predictable and easy to drive. My rig has 700# springs so I'm sure that helps.

With that said, I'm thinking I"m going to have to use the spacer blocks to relocate the front sway bar mount as I'm not a fan of aftermarket adj links. They simply won't hold up to the rigors of DDing. Heims and exposed threads don't appreciate winter salt and summer road grime. I know they're sexy but they're pretty useless on a DD unless you like to maintain them on a regular basis. It's cool if you do but I like to not worry about such things as I have bigger things to worry about. I have few friends who drank from the Uni-ball Kool-Aid and now have to grease them frequently as they're sick of the squeaks. All these bling belong on a race truck/car where they're serviced after every race.

I've since bought a GX and I'm selling the 4Runner. However, the lift kit and all parts I've ordered will work with the GX as well.

I decided to order a relocate kit. As I'm mostly a DD with (hopefully), several outings a year. Also, I went with 285/70R17s but in SL. They are Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I learned my lesson about 10 ply tires with my Taco!
 

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