Seymore Butts
New member
Is there any benefit to buying OEM at 2.6 times the price of Gates or is Gates just as good?
Serpentine belt: $30 Gates or $77 Toyota?
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phqduphead
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I’ve had a Goodyear brand for 3 years and is looks perfect still. Was under 30
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gates are good. just dont throw away your old one, keep it as backup.
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Stunna1019
New member
I use the continental belt got it from amazon and works really well, all my squeaks went away...you can get the part number from rockauto
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Stunna1019
New member
OEM isnt really needed they are all made by Gates just a marketing thing
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Seymore Butts
New member
Why do you think that?
Vespula
New member
My guy says the same thing. He is a pro mechanic. That's what he says and uses and he just put this on my 2004 v8. $20 on Amazon.
Bando 6PK2240 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CAYTGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FX62AbSGW8MVY
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Last edited:
Changed mine with bando as well. Been over a year and still running strong - OEM one lasted 150K and could have been left on - slight screech on startup made me change mine out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMEIGS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7PK2120 for my 03 v6.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMEIGS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7PK2120 for my 03 v6.
Changing the belt? Maybe check the pulleys too. (The bearings might getting worn).
The 4R doesn't have the famous "problems" of the Subaru H6 engine in my other car (Subaru Tribeca 2006). But, if you're looking at a belt change from "funny noises" or long term wear-and-tear, it might be good to give the idler puller and tensioner pulley a spin while the belt is off.
They should be smooth and almost noiseless. If they're not - look into replacing the entire pulley ($25-35), or maybe just pressing and replacing the bearing in the ones you have. (Costs only $3 per bearing, but it's a slightly more skillful job.)
For a "noisy" or wiggling tensioner, you may replace either the complete assembly (moderately higher $$, more work); or just the pulley assembly (medium $, less work), or just the bearing (least $, more work).
You don't have to do the bearings and the belt at the same time - remove the belt, check the bearings, put on the new belt, and letter take it back off for bearing and pulley replacement.
The 4R doesn't have the famous "problems" of the Subaru H6 engine in my other car (Subaru Tribeca 2006). But, if you're looking at a belt change from "funny noises" or long term wear-and-tear, it might be good to give the idler puller and tensioner pulley a spin while the belt is off.
They should be smooth and almost noiseless. If they're not - look into replacing the entire pulley ($25-35), or maybe just pressing and replacing the bearing in the ones you have. (Costs only $3 per bearing, but it's a slightly more skillful job.)
For a "noisy" or wiggling tensioner, you may replace either the complete assembly (moderately higher $$, more work); or just the pulley assembly (medium $, less work), or just the bearing (least $, more work).
You don't have to do the bearings and the belt at the same time - remove the belt, check the bearings, put on the new belt, and letter take it back off for bearing and pulley replacement.
