Shakes like crazy! Can you guess?
- Thread starter Ogre
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joshuabrady
New member
I would take a look at your idler arm, see if it is loose or what, that is what was wrong with mine. It is only like $95 to replace yourself, about $220 to have someone do it.
Not sure what the idler arm is. I am not familiar with SUV anatomy. Is that the cross bar thing in the front?
Here is more of a precise description. At slower speed the steering wheel seems to deflect about 1/2" to either side of center in an oscillating motion. The tire place said it was because I had crappy tires that were unballancable. This was after they did an inspection of the undercarriage. They didn't even check the ballance, but I had rotated the tires with no luck and wasn't about to pay $500 for new tires when I wasn't all too sure that that was the cause. Does this still sound like the idler arm?
Here is more of a precise description. At slower speed the steering wheel seems to deflect about 1/2" to either side of center in an oscillating motion. The tire place said it was because I had crappy tires that were unballancable. This was after they did an inspection of the undercarriage. They didn't even check the ballance, but I had rotated the tires with no luck and wasn't about to pay $500 for new tires when I wasn't all too sure that that was the cause. Does this still sound like the idler arm?
Last edited:
joshuabrady
New member
Yes, I have a 94 that it was doing that on, and my friend has an 87 that it would do that on, they both ended up being the idler arm. The Idler arm is on the front right, if you have someone kinda turn your steering wheel back and forth about 1/2 inch, and you look at the front right assembly, you should be able to make out what it is.
joshuabrady
New member
anytime
joshuabrady
New member
Hey just wondering if that did anything for you runner or if you found out that it was something else.
94yotarunner
New member
Ogre said:
When you said the click sound by turning all the way, I had the same problem. Thats a different problem, well, it was for me anyways. For me the clicking was the CV joints, but I replaced them and it went away. Now I just have to make sure to they're in good shape and no problems, but I never had severe jolting.
Gryphon
New member
I had a similar problem on a different vehicle, it was the tires. I replaced just one tire and it resolved the problem (on that vehicle.)
A shimmy like yours when stopping (only when stopping) is usually warped rotors. Get them turned or replaced.
Idler arm: Good possability. Mine is bad, I need to get one. My truck does not shimmy or sway at all, but I DO get a clunk when steering under load or off chamber.
Where to find your idler arm:
Look under the front of your truck. On the driver's side, there is a shaft that comes from the steering box. This attatches to the rod that goes between both front wheels. The rod is the tie rod. On the passenger side, there is a connection that looks like the one on the driver's side, but just bolts to frame and pivots; THAT is your idler arm. If the bushings inside it are worn, or the pivots where the tie rod attaches are bad, that could likely be your problem. Easy test: jack up the front of your rig, both wheels off the ground. Support it very well with jackstands. Wiggle that rod and other parts. If they are bad, you will be able to tell easily. Looks for rust, a tel-tale sign of a shot joint.
Idler arms can be rebuildable, depending on what year and kind they are. Mine is just shot where it connects to the tie rod, but that joint is not replaceable. Shop around for the replacement part, Toyota wants almost $200 for one, NAPA wants 90 or so, Checker has one for $45 bucks. Also check Car Quest if you have one, NAPA and they use the same suppliers, same parts, even a lot of the same part numbers, but Car Quest is much cheaper.
One thing tho, it is an easy job (relatively) to replace the arm yourself, but you still want an alignment done afterwards, so it may be worthwhile to just have it replaced...plus a warranty is always a good thing to have!
A shimmy like yours when stopping (only when stopping) is usually warped rotors. Get them turned or replaced.
Idler arm: Good possability. Mine is bad, I need to get one. My truck does not shimmy or sway at all, but I DO get a clunk when steering under load or off chamber.
Where to find your idler arm:
Look under the front of your truck. On the driver's side, there is a shaft that comes from the steering box. This attatches to the rod that goes between both front wheels. The rod is the tie rod. On the passenger side, there is a connection that looks like the one on the driver's side, but just bolts to frame and pivots; THAT is your idler arm. If the bushings inside it are worn, or the pivots where the tie rod attaches are bad, that could likely be your problem. Easy test: jack up the front of your rig, both wheels off the ground. Support it very well with jackstands. Wiggle that rod and other parts. If they are bad, you will be able to tell easily. Looks for rust, a tel-tale sign of a shot joint.
Idler arms can be rebuildable, depending on what year and kind they are. Mine is just shot where it connects to the tie rod, but that joint is not replaceable. Shop around for the replacement part, Toyota wants almost $200 for one, NAPA wants 90 or so, Checker has one for $45 bucks. Also check Car Quest if you have one, NAPA and they use the same suppliers, same parts, even a lot of the same part numbers, but Car Quest is much cheaper.
One thing tho, it is an easy job (relatively) to replace the arm yourself, but you still want an alignment done afterwards, so it may be worthwhile to just have it replaced...plus a warranty is always a good thing to have!
86runner-sas
New member
u joint
