Shakes when I apply brakes. "HELP"

H

HghStrng

New member
When I apply the brakes over 40 or 50 MPH the truck shakes.

No issue at low speed no shake when driving only when brakes applied.
I have a 94 and have replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, calipers, pads. I thought it was something to do with the tie rods. Replaced all tie rods and link arm.

I am thinking it could be something with the following,
-bad tire but no issue driving.
-possible air in the line?
-Front Shocks (replaced rear)
-LSPV

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Register to hide this ad
many years ago I had a similar issue with a 5.0 Mustang. it turns out I had belts separated in the tires. Once I replaced the tires everything went back to normal.
 
Brake rotors warped would by my first thought. but it looks like you checked that. I would have it checked professionally, run em on a lathe to verify they are OK. Out of round rim ? that does not make sense, I assume you have had the tires balanced and rotated?
I'm just thinking outloud. Can you describe the "shake better? do you feel it in the steering wheel, or in the seat? is the whole car vibrating? fast or slow frequency? if you push in the clutch or put it in neutral does it still shake? are you sure it is not there at lower speeds, just less noticable? and what about at higher speeds? Is it smooth till you slow to 50 mph - then start up? if you push the brake petal harder, does the shake get more pronounced? and does it go away immediately when you release brake petal pressure?

Answers to these may help us diagnose!
 
Last edited:
Ok, so I had the tires balanced and rotated. Drives smoother.
I push the clutch in and pull the e brake and no issue. I am going to attempt to clean the LSPV and see how that goes.
Tire shop said it sounds like the jeep death wobble and recomend I change the steering dampner. I am pretty convinced it is in the brake system.


to follow up on the above question, it happens at approx 40-50 when you apply the brakes and will pull a little left. no other time. I feel it in the whole car, I can stick my head out the window and see the tire wobble. it does go away when you release pressure. (only happens with brake pressure/fast frequency/clutch in still shakes)
 
Last edited:
i had a similar problem once, it turned out to be a worn idler arm bushing. some idler arms have a replaceable bushing, and others don't (it's much cheaper to buy just the bushing if you have a replaceable one). to check this park on level ground with the front tires facing straght forward. jack the front tires and inch or two from the ground and turn the ignition on (but dont start) then move the front tire left to right in a jiggling motion. if you see the idler arm moving up and down (not just left to right) then the bushing is worn. also having this problem can ruin a steering dampener pretty quickly so check that as well. if it needs replacing i'd recommend just getting a "big bore" or heavy duty one, they usually are the same price or cheaper than OEM parts and make a world of difference (especially off road)
 
Yep I replaced the idler arm, the only thing left in that system is the pitman arm which is tight and the dampner. I may try replacing the dampner. I just hate throwing $ and it not going away.
 
If you still have the stock damper, it's over due for replacing anyway.
Although it's good to have the LSPV working properly, it's not going to be contributing to vibrations, just affects rear braking power.
 
copy on the LSVP, didn't really want to tackle that. I will try the dampner I know it is isolated to the front now because it doesn't shake when using the back brakes (E brake)
 
Ok so I wont get the steering stabalizer till tomorrow but I did find a recall on a steering relay rod. You may want to check yours, does not seam this is related but I sure hope so. 1994 Toyota 4RUNNER Recall ID from NHTSA: 05V389000
 
i have another story/solution. i used to roll over the curb and park in my front yard all the time. after a while i started noticing a little wobble at high speeds when going down hill or braking. i drove on it for a while and when i noticed that the tires were unevenly wearing i rotated them and it helped a bit, but i ended up getting an alignment and new tires to solve the problem. i know you got an alignment, but could your tires be unevenly worn?
 
tires I purchased in January and had them balanced and rotated right after the alignment on Tues. or Wed. Discount tire inspected them and said they are good. It is at the steelership now, so will see what they find. They are changing a relay control rod (recall) wich I am not sure if that is the center link or what exactly. They are going to align it again. I imagine it is something simple.
 
Last edited:
So stealership recommends rear drums and shoes nothing convincing. So I will turn the drums new shoes. If it is still there will replace the front rotors again. Will let everyone know how it turns out. I hope to get it back from them today.
 
BE careful of going to the stealership, most (not all, but most) of their guys are not true mechanics, they are "parts changers" and they just throw parts at the car until it works right... which ends up costing you big time.. i'd google search local toyota shops and check their ratings and reviews on google, find a place thats honest.

i can see the rear drums warping and causing surging when on the breaks, but not wobble or vibrations.
 
run4yota is 100% correct.
So I put in the comments of the work request vehicle needs to be driven over 40mph. They call and say nothing is wrong, ha ha I go down and ask for the manager and ask him to read what I want done on the truck. He say, wow crystal clear. So we go drive it over 40, it shakes. I say is it possible the back brakes. No clue, I say well how about we measure the drums and rotors or something. I leave, they finished the relay rod change Sat. I go pick it up change the rotors and BINGO.
Smooth ride, thanks for all the replies. :bigok:
 
2 things cause drums to warp and having one will lead to the other. they are A) drums thickness has worn beyond acceptable tolerances making them thin and easly warped. the other killer for drum brakes is heat. they heat up and retain heat faster than disc brakes. the heat softens the metal and then the pressure from the pads stretches them unevenly aka warping them. this usually happens coming down steep grades for long periods of time. one way to avoid warping breaks is to downshift and use the engines rpms to keep your speed down. and when you do heat up your breaks coming down a long grade, slowly (very slowly) release the breaks so that the brakes are evenly stretched, this will minimize the warping.

glad you got it fixed :guitar3:
 
Ok so first thought was correct....ROTORS I put on are bad, put new rotors and pads and smooth sweet ride. Yes the shocks,steering stabilizer, complete steering needed to be replaced so all is ok with that. Now she drives and rides like new. Thank you to everyone who commented and helped out.
 
I know this is an old thread but I have a similar problem. Just picked up a 95 V6 2wd from my neighbor. Car had been sitting for about 6 months so I asked if wanted to let her go. Sold it to me for a song, super clean and runs great. He said it needed new brakes because is shook under braking. I drove it and sure enough it did. No pulsing in the pedal and not a shake that you feel through the steering wheel but a full shake of the entire vehicle. I checked the fronts and the pads were getting close to needing to be replaced so I put on new pads and rotors. Still shakes. Took it to a suspension guy he said it all looks good. Tried the e brake method and it shakes but not as bad (could be because I can't apply as much pressure as the pedal?) What do you guys think, bad drums?

Thanks!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 377 (members: 1, guests: 376)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,075
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top