My 97 3.4 I bought last December is just now at the 5000 mile oil change interval. It currently has 115500 miles on it. Toyota dealership changed it before I bought it so I know it doesnt currently have synthetic oil. Im considering switching to Mobil 1 since it sits a lot and will most likely only need an oil change once a year. Ive read the horror stories about switching to synthetic and developing leaks so im aprehensive. Will conventional oil be ok for annual changes as long as im within 5000 miles or should I go ahead and make the switch?
Should I make the switch to synthetic oil?
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JayRolla
New member
Different quotes from different people
"Roger Crawford wrote: Synthetic oil has a better shear capability, better cling, and [better resistance to] thermal breakdown, an issue in a daily driver.
Dan Stern added: Other [advantages] include much lower pour point, much less viscosity change over time, and flat-out better lubricity. All of these are quite advantageous indeed--even in daily drivers. That lower pour point is particularly good--it means that oil gets where it needs to be much more rapidly after a cold start, especially in very cold weather. ... What you refer to as "thermal breakdown" manifests itself as sludge and that tarlike goo that comes out of your crankcase every 3k miles. It happens on daily drivers! If you're not driving in conditions that let you take advantage of the lower pour point of synthetic oil, then you're most likely driving in conditions that let you take advantage of the resistance to thermal breakdown.
True or false?
The additives in oil reduce have a limited life, thus waiting longer between changes has disadvantages because the additives lose their effectiveness
Synthetic by design is less prone to breakdown, and does not need the quantity of additives necessary to make dino juice an "effective" oil. Synthetic is much less prone to coking, and less prone to varnish than conventional oil.
Dan Stern wrote, “Oil additives do not deteriorate over time--only over usage. Some modes of usage are harder on oil than others. Lots of short trips put lots of water and acid, etc. in the oil, and things never get hot enough to boil off these contaminants. That's why you hear to change the oil every x,000 miles or x months--because if you're not driving x,000 miles over a period of x months, you're making this kind of short-trip contamination.”
The more you change the oil, the better
General Motors’ research indicates that 10,000 mile oil changes may actually be quite safe - if conditions are right. GM is switching from standard intervals to computer monitoring.
I thought that once you used conventional oil over time the seals swell more, when then switching to synthetic oil, the seals reduce in size and leaks can develop
If you have leaks with regular oil, you'll have leaks with synthetic. If you have leaks with synthetic, you'll have leaks with regular oil.
Edgar Atheling wrote:
I had several mechanics tell me that [switching to synthetic on high-mileage vehicles] would ruin the seals and cause (or increase) oil leaks. One mechanic stated that the oil consumption in his personal vehicle increased dramatically (about one quart every 750 miles) after switching to synthetic oil in a high mileage car. I, however, have not experienced any increase in oil consumption in either of my high mileage vehicles.
Oil change intervals
Dan Stern wrote:
16,000 miles surely seems like a long time for an oil change, and it is, and it goes against my previously firm belief in the 3,000 mile interval. But I dropped in the Mobil-1 10w-30 and the XHD oil filter. I kept checking the oil and seeing a crankcase full of mighty clean engine oil which didn't smell or feel any different from the stuff that came right out of the bottle. It grew slightly dark--think "soy sauce" if new oil is "honey"--but no darker. It never got sticky or gritty or began to smell gasoliny or carbonacious. It was down by a pint (half a quart!) at 8,000 miles, so I changed the XHD filter, added a pint, and had my mother keep driving.
When I drained the oil at 16,000, it looked great and smelled and felt fine. So in short, I didn't do this because I read about it, or because somebody told me I should, or to rationalize the higher cost of Mobil-1. I did it based solely on my own executive decision.
We're closing in on our second 16,000 mile interval, and will probably hit it within the year. When the engine was apart for a head gasket, everything looked great. No abnormal wear anywhere, no weird noises, no oil pressure problems, no smoke.
More notes on the 53020311 Severe Duty oil filter: List is around $7 per filter. They fit all four of our cars, so I buy them by the case and pay $4.30/filter. It's built with very good materials and workmanship. I have yet to find a sample--and I have cut several open--with sloppy or incomplete gluing, poor construction, foreign material inside the filter, etc. The antidrainback and overpressure relief valves are more robustly designed than any other filter I've ever examined for this application (and there have been many). The filter element inside is very large.
Paul Ivester added: “You might wish to advise your readers not to break-in a new engine with synthetic oil. The first 5,000 miles at least on mineral oil is still the rule [except where the owner’s manual disagrees]. Many people still are unaware of this. Chrome rings are very touchy on this.”
Also see our discussion of Consumer Reports’ study that shows no difference between any motor oils. "
Nunyabiz
New member
100% of the so called horror stories actually have nothing to do with synthetic in the first place.
Has to do with the engine was either over heated and cooked the gaskets/seals or dino oil not changed at 3000 miles and built up varnish/sludge that has dried the gaskets/seals.
The only thing the synthetic does is clean the engine.
Even still, the odds of any problem are remote and at worst all it does is show you that you have a problem CAUSED by the Petroleum Oil.
I have used Synthetic since 1977 on every single engine of any kind that I have owned, cars, trucks, lawn mowers, pressure washers anything with an infernal combustion engine that I have owned for 38 years and have exactly zero problems.
Has to do with the engine was either over heated and cooked the gaskets/seals or dino oil not changed at 3000 miles and built up varnish/sludge that has dried the gaskets/seals.
The only thing the synthetic does is clean the engine.
Even still, the odds of any problem are remote and at worst all it does is show you that you have a problem CAUSED by the Petroleum Oil.
I have used Synthetic since 1977 on every single engine of any kind that I have owned, cars, trucks, lawn mowers, pressure washers anything with an infernal combustion engine that I have owned for 38 years and have exactly zero problems.
TNcaveman
New member
My 22RE was sold with 485,000 and no rebuild. Conventional oil - Castrol oil.
My Civic has 250,000 miles when sold - no problems. Conventional oil.
I do 3000 changes on all my vehicles, or every 6 months/2500 miles on the Celica (doesn't get a lot of action).
I would not sweat it. If you don't drive a lot, change it at least every 6 months. You will have more problems with moisture in your engine than the oil you use.
Stephen
PS - I do use Synthetic in differentials and gear boxes. They are much harder on oil.
My Civic has 250,000 miles when sold - no problems. Conventional oil.
I do 3000 changes on all my vehicles, or every 6 months/2500 miles on the Celica (doesn't get a lot of action).
I would not sweat it. If you don't drive a lot, change it at least every 6 months. You will have more problems with moisture in your engine than the oil you use.
Stephen
PS - I do use Synthetic in differentials and gear boxes. They are much harder on oil.
JayRolla
New member
I also have used dino oil in every application I have ever ran. I know someone running a Mitsubishi turbo motor at 420whp, car has over 280k miles on original block. Running 30+psi and dino oil. Still running strong.
I mainly run it because its cheaper. I cant afford the expensive stuff. LOL
I mainly run it because its cheaper. I cant afford the expensive stuff. LOL
soundmanlpte
New member
Obviously the most important thing is that you change the oil period. But I am of the opinion that synthetic oil is always a good idea. I have used Mobil1 but I have by far the best results with Amsoil oils and filters.
JayRolla
New member
My I ask what bad results you have had with non Amsoil products. I have ran a lot of different brand filters/oils and never had bad results.
soundmanlpte
New member
I never said I had bad results. I just get the best results with Amsoil. It maintains its color and consistency far longer than Castrol or mobil1 synthetics. But any synthetic is still an improvement over conventional.
JayRolla
New member
Ohh okay. I see. Just wondering how people have had best results. You always hear how this oil works better than another. Just hard to believe when its almost all the same.
T4R2014
Elite Member
Color is not a reliable indicator of oil life.
soundmanlpte
New member
Believe what you want. The important thing is that you change your oil with any brand. But Amsoil has no reason to guarantee their oil for up to 25k mile changes unless the oil could live up to it.
T4R2014
Elite Member
Their 25k oil interval claim has got to be one of the sketchiest marketing tactics around.
soundmanlpte
New member
Well it's 15k severe service which most of us fall under. Also 12 months max. Why would you guarantee that if it's not legit? They would sell more oil if the interval was less... They would also lose customers if their engines developed sludge as a result.
T4R2014
Elite Member
Regular OCI as specified by Toyota for a 1997 4Runner is 5,000 miles. I would imagine that any severe service recommendations would be even shorter. Amsoil. That marketing scheme takes no consideration towards varied driving conditions and climates. Will they replace an engine on a 15 year old 4Runner if their advertised interval causes an internal failure? I doubt it.
BrianSD_42
New member
Do whatever makes you feel comfortable.
I'm at 230k miles on regular oil. I've owned since 2002 and 67k miles.
No sludge, no smoke.
I'm at 230k miles on regular oil. I've owned since 2002 and 67k miles.
No sludge, no smoke.
Thats for sure. We ran an old John Deere on the farm for years that ran on LP gas. The oil that you drained out at service time looked exactly the same as new oil.
I went by the Toyota dealership to get filters and ended up getting Toyota 5w-30 regular oil as well.
T4R2014
Elite Member
This.
My uncle doesn't give a damn about what oil his cars have and and his Sienna with the 1MZFE of all engines is still running smooth on Jiffy Lube oil changes using dino oil. That thing is past 200k as well. Motor oil is an over-thought topic.
TNcaveman
New member
If you drive 6000 miles per year, don't expect great things from long oil change intervals. I drive about 25,000 in my 4runner and 8000 in the Celica. I have driven the Celica less than 6000 one year, and the 2 oil changes were not enough. I felt some performance drop. Mostly at high rpm's (over 6000). Moisture that is in gasoline w/ ethanol in it will degrade any oil.
Stephen
Stephen
Jon
New member
I have run Royal Purple in every vehicle since i found it in 2006 and love it. Always stick with the weight that the engine was designed for unless it had been built and otherwise adjusted for different tolerances. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dEFGJqpCMY
After observing several filter tests, I run Wix or Mobile 1. I used to love the Fram Easy grips back in the day but after seeing the crap that they are made out of, I wouldn't trust them for a spare. Here's a basic vid with a good link toward the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=130uUGJRkXM
And one of my high stress pulls in snow... no smoke 350k miles on the motor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3G3weBqpJj4&list=UUrT7Jv77aaIw3WFudxIfdyQ
After observing several filter tests, I run Wix or Mobile 1. I used to love the Fram Easy grips back in the day but after seeing the crap that they are made out of, I wouldn't trust them for a spare. Here's a basic vid with a good link toward the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=130uUGJRkXM
And one of my high stress pulls in snow... no smoke 350k miles on the motor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3G3weBqpJj4&list=UUrT7Jv77aaIw3WFudxIfdyQ
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