Should I replace ITREs?

ShooterMcGavin

ShooterMcGavin

New member
I'm doing my LBJs and OTRE because I have broken stuff. I am planning on lifting the truck this year. I don't have any steering issues, nothing major at least. There's a little pull when I brake hard, not a big deal. Steering is just ok - it's a truck. 266k miles, no repair history.

ITREs are $127 each to stick with OEM, do I really need to replace them? Should I definitely stay with OEM?
 
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I replaced passenger ITRE with acdelco brand over a year ago. Took an hour or so. Easy. Double for both. Get some PB Blaster!

I have had no trouble with mine and I'm happy with results.
 
If you're going to be doing all that work and already have everything apart you might as well. It will save a trip to the shop for an extra alignment.
 
Yes.

Autozone sells the Triple Five brand branded as Duralast. It's not OEM, but definitely good quality. Also comes with lifetime warranty so if/when they go bad I just bring them in for free parts. $29 each.

You've done all the work anyway, all you do is remove the boots, bend back the washer and they are off.
 
gamefreakgc said:
Yes.

Autozone sells the Triple Five brand branded as Duralast. It's not OEM, but definitely good quality. Also comes with lifetime warranty so if/when they go bad I just bring them in for free parts. $29 each.

You've done all the work anyway, all you do is remove the boots, bend back the washer and they are off.
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I just picked some inner tie rods up today from Autozone. They are indeed made in Japan and are the 555 brand from Sankei. I haven't installed them yet but they look decent so far. However they are $44 each; it's the outer tie rods that are $29...and made in Taiwan.
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Sounds like OEM is not needed for TREs. Is that the general consensus?
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From what I've gathered on ITREs is that OEM is crazy expensive for what you get and that most people just go with an upper-end parts store version.

I went with the Autozone ones because they looked decent and I need them now since I'll be putting new tires on in a day or two. Plus I just payed for them on my phone with PayPal (while standing at the counter after inspecting them first) and then walked out with them. Easy-peezy.
 
gamefreakgc said:
Yes.

Autozone sells the Triple Five brand branded as Duralast. It's not OEM, but definitely good quality. Also comes with lifetime warranty so if/when they go bad I just bring them in for free parts. $29 each.

You've done all the work anyway, all you do is remove the boots, bend back the washer and they are off.
Click to expand...

If I recall correctly the ACDelco brand I used also had a 555 stamp on them.
 
StreetCreeper said:
From what I've gathered on ITREs is that OEM is crazy expensive for what you get and that most people just go with an upper-end parts store version.

I went with the Autozone ones because they looked decent and I need them now since I'll be putting new tires on in a day or two. Plus I just payed for them on my phone with PayPal (while standing at the counter after inspecting them first) and then walked out with them. Easy-peezy.
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Is aftermarket decent for OTREs too?
 
fblainen11 said:
If I recall correctly the ACDelco brand I used also had a 555 stamp on them.
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Low Range Off Road also sells the same 555 ITRE as well. I had originally purchased those as well as their 555 outers; I then learned they didn't have any of them in stock, so I cancled the order and went to Autozone.

I know on some parts, the 555 stamp can be misleading because the part was originally a 555 manufactured part, but has since been used as a returnable core and rebuilt by "whoever". But I don't think they rebuild ITREs....at least I hope they don't do that.
 
ShooterMcGavin said:
Is aftermarket decent for OTREs too?
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I honestly have no idea but I figure I will use the aftermarket outers and check them periodicaly. I don't do any crazy rock crawling so I'm not anticipating stressing the component, nor do I have a big lift on the truck that creates weird angles or stress points.

At the first sign of problems though, I will switch to OEM.
 
I got aftermarket inners, OEM outers and OEM LBJs. With a little liquid wrench and a few beers it was simple enough.

The only issue is making sure your alignment is safe enough to drive to the alignment shop. My tires squealed the entire 1/2 mile there haha

:lookout:
 
Not sure if anyone here with aftermarket ITRE's wheel hard but I do and tore through three different types of after markets before finally going OEM. Many offroad trips later they are still solid.

Aftermarkets dont have the same droop angle so when fully drooped in the front end they pull on the ball and put pressure on the rack. Causing rack seals to blow out and ITRE's to loosen up.

Just my personal experience. BUT IF NOT BROKE DONT FIX!!
 
JayRolla said:
Not sure if anyone here with aftermarket ITRE's wheel hard but I do and tore through three different types of after markets before finally going OEM. Many offroad trips later they are still solid.

Aftermarkets dont have the same droop angle so when fully drooped in the front end they pull on the ball and put pressure on the rack. Causing rack seals to blow out and ITRE's to loosen up.

Just my personal experience. BUT IF NOT BROKE DONT FIX!!
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Hmmm, interesting. Now you have me thinking. The ITREs from the factory are pretty expensive though.

ETA: Do you use aftermarket outers?
 
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LookAtThatDog said:
I got aftermarket inners, OEM outers and OEM LBJs. With a little liquid wrench and a few beers it was simple enough.

The only issue is making sure your alignment is safe enough to drive to the alignment shop. My tires squealed the entire 1/2 mile there haha

:lookout:
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Couple of straight-edges and a tape measure is really all you need to set a toe that is close enough to get to the shop.
 
When ITREs fail, is it a sudden separation, or is it an increase in wheel play that leads to sloppiness?
If it's the latter, then a cheaper version with a warranty isn't a bad option.
 
JayRolla said:
Not sure if anyone here with aftermarket ITRE's wheel hard but I do and tore through three different types of after markets before finally going OEM. Many offroad trips later they are still solid.

Aftermarkets dont have the same droop angle so when fully drooped in the front end they pull on the ball and put pressure on the rack. Causing rack seals to blow out and ITRE's to loosen up.

Just my personal experience. BUT IF NOT BROKE DONT FIX!!
Click to expand...

This would only affect those with lifts and larger tires, yeah? For those of us that have mild lifts or stock setups, aftermarket ones work just fine. The same goes with pretty much any steering/suspension component.

Inner and outer tie rods rarely ever fail, I've never heard of it. What happens is you get play in the ball joint and housing, causing play which creates sloppy steering and lack of control.
 
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